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heat the hub with a mapp gas torch spray PB blaster into the clevis end the housing should break free
No Mapp, but I have propane touch. I put on it for 3 minutes. Won't budge, but nothing about this thing appears is going to be easy for me.
Really getting frustrated. I guess I'll cut it and I'll get e brake shoes for both sides too as, I noticed while following the E brake that Mark didn't put the #%$@# SS brake line on the passenger rear as he said. I wondered why I had two in the car.
Tried a 20 ton press on the pin and it won't budge. What the#%$* Going with 50/50 acetone/PS fluid mix overnight , then I'll try heat and press tomorrow. IF that does''t work I'll have to find a machine shop with a bigger press.
Also does anyone have any ideas about how to get the metal e brake sleeve pressed out? See the photo in the post above. All the photos I have seen of ebrake removals do not show this long of a sleeve.
I don't remember how I removed the brake metal sleeve, but I remember it was also stuck there.
Also remember that it was destroyed when out.
Heat again and a big pair of prier maybe?
In searching the internet, I came across this thread on another site. Some interesting techniques I thought others may be interested in. I may try vinegar and freezing and then heat. In the end it didn't seem to work, but could have aided in separation.
The biggest question is how to treat the parts on reinstall to prevent future aluminum/steel reaction. Not too big a deal for me in the climate I'm , but it seems those in colder climates struggle with these issues on this particular R/R.
The goal for me as it is to most folks here is to save these cars when possible. I wouldn't want a future owner of my cars to have to deal with this.
One time I was trying to separate a timing ring from a flywheel. I had it glowing red from a MAP torch, wouldn't budge.
I took the part to Turbo Todd's shop, he fired up the acetylene torch, after about 5 seconds of heat the ring fell off. That was the first of many examples where my MAP torch did nothing, and the acetylene torch made quick work of separating parts.
That is a large chunk of metal you are trying to heat up and aluminum dissipates it rapidly. Your home torch may not be hot enough to make any difference.
The temp difference is only about 1,000F, but it sure seems to help.
heat the hub with a mapp gas torch spray PB blaster into the clevis end the housing should break free
Hats off to Stan. +1 on needing the proper heat. Propane/butane torch no good. Used Oxyacetylene X 2 passes right on the end of the steel pin. After it cooled ,whacked the other end of the pin (Which was already buggered. I have a replacement.) with a hammer and she started to move. ran out of light but the parking brake sleeve is next.
Pin is out
Rear Facing hub
rear facing hub looks like I'll have to clean this up with some high grit and emery.
Got a chance to work on getting the ebrake metal sleeve out of the hub yesterday. 2X oxyacetylene and a punch and hammer from the hub side did the trick. Given the amount of galling is there any special lubricant formulation I should try?
Almost like this was made to happen
Hammer and punch after 2 rounds of heat
Finally out.
lots of pitting I won;t be able to get rid of. Need a good lubricant
As I get the opportunity, I'm playing with PC bits and baubles . Last weekend end I started with the very oxidized tool kit . Cleaned with evapo rust then Simple green. I baked the test pieces in the oven to 425 for 20 minutes. cooled to 150 and laid on a coat of powder . Baked the powder at 400 for 20 minutes. then shot another coat and repeated. Prepared the other tools in the kit gun dead. Had to return it to the manufacture.
Built a PC booth out of Home Depot wardrobe box . worked out well.
Powder Coat Booth . Home Depot Wardrobe box
What severalof the wrenches looked like before PC and after.
Cleaned everything up. ready to put it back together. Whats the best grease to use on the pin etc..
After all the rust and galling I don't want to do this again. I have some moly, but I read that Moly based grease is not so great with water. Given these parts will no doubt get wet, what grease could I use a lithium or just go with what I have?
04-02-2017, 07:20 PM
