jayc67

So the light came on yesterday, how long do I have before I begin to do damage, might be a couple of weeks before I can get to the pad replacement.

Read the Nichols site, but I'm not sure on the pad sensor wire. When I replace the pads, are the wires part of the pad? Are they a seperate piece? Will it be obvious which one is worn when I do the change?

Thanks as always......

J

Red UFO

Jay the wires cost about $30 bucks each and they plug into the back of the brake pad. You should have a few millimeters of pad left. My sensor wore down but on inspection I had plenty of pad left for another year worth of driving.

Also you might want to disconnect the battery and reboot the computer just to be sure. Sometimes it fixes this as a glitch. If the light stays on, then inspect each brake system and plan on replacing pads or sensors if needed.

MikeN

Couple of weeks should be no problem as there is usually a decent amount of pad left after the light comes on. The sensors are not part of the pad, but slip into a "notch" that is on each pads frame. One connector/pair of wires leads to two sensors with a little wire bridge in between.

You should have no problem finding the one that is worn.......but you might want to do a visual check both front and rear to see which set of pads is getting low. While you can try and reuse good sensors......they are just about impossible to get out without breaking, and new ones sometimes break getting them into the pads. I have got it down to a science getting new ones in by slighly filing the pad frame and using a little light grease to help them slide in without breaking........you'll see what I'm talking about when you have them out in front of you. Nice feature, but a bit of a pain in the butt.

MikeN

The sensors aren't that bad in price for the later years......they are between $12 - $18. Actually for some reason these are one of the few parts my Porsche dealer has for less then the Big 3. At least last time they were. Also don't forget the pad silencers......now those things are pricey, but you may be able to use the old ones. Don't scrimp here though.....or you'll be back here on the list bitchin' about brake squeak later.....BTDT

Lizard928

I would say just get the pads and do it asap, no point in waiting

jayc67

What are silencers? I was on 928 Intl just now looking at parts for this, and I don't see any silencers.....

Thanks for the help!

FYI sent Rennlist $$$ for membership this morning. More than worth it.

Lizard928

a silencer is a aluminum/tin shim that goes between the pad and then caliper pistons to eliminate noise between these, there is also materials that can be applied to the back (goopy material) that help prevent squeek as well

Big Dave

The "goopy" break stuff barely works. I've applied it twice now, and the squeaks always return.

Lizard928

agreed big dave, I have it on mine, and am going to just get the shims/silencer plates, and it the same time get some better pads

jorj7

J,

Waiting a couple of weeks shouldn't be a problem. You'll need to replace both
the pads and sensors, as the sensors only will "work" once. I try to keep
track of the pads and replace them before the sensor goes off. The silencers
work well for the street, but if you track the car, they seem to self destruct after
one session. Here's my rear brake replacement page:

http://sis125.berkeley.edu/928/wk-rear-brake.html

This shows replacing the rotor and pads on the rear. The fronts are
very similar.

Ron_H

I must have a failed sensor, because last weekend I experienced a scary episode of brake fade coming up on a sharp corner under hard braking from above triple digit speeds. All of a sudden the brakes stopped braking. It was a bit tense for a few moments. When I returned home, I pulled the front wheels and found less than 1/16" of pad material on one of the front pads. The rears were about 1/3rd remaining. No warning of the fade.

I broke one of the sensors re-installing it after replacing the pads. But so what? It didn't work anyway. The sensor on the other side had been installed incorrectly so that it was rubbing against the rotor and was worn down halfway through the plastic. Not too comforting.

My conclusion: Check pads regularly visually. Forget idiot lights.

Lizard928

agreed and dont forget to flush the brake fluid about once a year

Jfrahm

I don't see how you would get brake fade due to thin pad material. As long as you have pad material, that is. The brake fluid would heat up faster I suppose, maybe boil if it's really old and nasty. Then you would have fade but not right away.

-Joel.

Ron_H

I had been using the brakes very hard all morning, and a guy in a 911 behind me said he could smell the burning. So could I in my car, and concluded they were really hot. Lots of twisties in succession for several miles, up and down, up and down.

The fluid was changed completely less than 3 months ago. The brakes returned as soon as I drove for about 2 minutes and I concluded it was cooling air from the front ducts. Whatever specifically caused it' I was spooked to discover the front pads worn almost down to the backing plates. Maybe a fingernail thickness left. The fluid was/is Super Blue.

Jim bailey - 928 International

the brake pad material is an insulator designed to NOT transfer too much heat to the metal backing plate which is in contact with the piston . The rotor is literally red hot under hard braking and that fire must not get too close to a steel backing plate steel piston or the brake fluid will see much too much temperature and boil . Gasses compress easily and the brake pedal might hit the floor before anything happens pumping the pedal eventually should get some brakes but that first feeling of the pedal on the floor gets your attention . Water/ moisture absorbed in the brake fluid dramatically lowers the boiling point which is why it should be changed at least every other year .....more often for track junkies . Nearly new brake pads work better than nearly worn out brake pads to control fade .