Oil Level Switch Connector Boot
#16
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Rob--
Could you measure the ID at the end where it fits over the switch terminal? There are some rubber angle boots available, unfortunately minus the elephant ears, that might do until tooling can be made or another source for the original is found.
Also, a picture with a scale/ruler adjacent would be a big help. TIA.
Could you measure the ID at the end where it fits over the switch terminal? There are some rubber angle boots available, unfortunately minus the elephant ears, that might do until tooling can be made or another source for the original is found.
Also, a picture with a scale/ruler adjacent would be a big help. TIA.
#17
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Yep.
ID of boot is ~9.5 mm:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Oil%20level%20sender%20boot%20ID%209-5%20mm%2012-29-16.jpg)
Overall length ~46 mm:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Oil%20level%20sender%20boot%20length%2046%20mm%2012-29-16.jpg)
Neck of level sender- ~11.5 mm:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Oil%20level%20sender%20flange%20neck%2011-5%20mm%2012-29-16.jpg)
Max OD of level sender: ~14.5 mm:
ID of boot is ~9.5 mm:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Oil%20level%20sender%20boot%20ID%209-5%20mm%2012-29-16.jpg)
Overall length ~46 mm:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Oil%20level%20sender%20boot%20length%2046%20mm%2012-29-16.jpg)
Neck of level sender- ~11.5 mm:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Oil%20level%20sender%20flange%20neck%2011-5%20mm%2012-29-16.jpg)
Max OD of level sender: ~14.5 mm:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/OIl%20level%20sender%20flange%20flare%2014-4mm%2012-29-16.jpg)
#18
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Another view of the boot from my engine mounts/pan gasket project last year.
I wish I'd taken a photo of the connector with which I replaced the hollow pin that slides over the male pin on the pan, as it made a really good fit.
When I removed the level connector I was concerned to find it hanging on by just a few strands of wire. I cut back to fresh wire, and crimped this into a short butt-type connector that made a very firm connection to the pan. Crimping meant not having to faff around with using soldering iron in mid-air under the car! The new connection was too long to allow the boot to clamp back on though, so I left it loose. Next time I'm in that area I'll have a look to see how the new connector is holding up. I was happier having thick wire firmly crimped into connector but not completely protected by boot, than the boot attached properly to the pan but protecting a few strands of wire which could have failed soon in a spot which is awkward to reach, and without much slack in the wire from the loom.
I wish I'd taken a photo of the connector with which I replaced the hollow pin that slides over the male pin on the pan, as it made a really good fit.
When I removed the level connector I was concerned to find it hanging on by just a few strands of wire. I cut back to fresh wire, and crimped this into a short butt-type connector that made a very firm connection to the pan. Crimping meant not having to faff around with using soldering iron in mid-air under the car! The new connection was too long to allow the boot to clamp back on though, so I left it loose. Next time I'm in that area I'll have a look to see how the new connector is holding up. I was happier having thick wire firmly crimped into connector but not completely protected by boot, than the boot attached properly to the pan but protecting a few strands of wire which could have failed soon in a spot which is awkward to reach, and without much slack in the wire from the loom.
#19
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The pin connector is available and part number 999 652 371 12 and we stock them for $1
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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#20
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When I did my OPG job I posted that all went well except for ripping this boot in half (the tapered part remaining on the pan). Greg B responded saying that the boot wasn't adequate from the factory and trapped moisture, contributing to corrosion of the sensor connection. He suggested leaving it bare and cleaning it often. I thought perhaps a generous amount of die-electric grease would help.
#21
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Why not just apply some liquid electrical tape and be done with it?
It cracks me up when there is much hand wringing about a part not appearing 'stock' in a location that will never be seen with belly pans installed, even in a high-end concourse competition.
It cracks me up when there is much hand wringing about a part not appearing 'stock' in a location that will never be seen with belly pans installed, even in a high-end concourse competition.
#22
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I feel a need to have a real rubber connector boot on there, rather than a blob-o-goop solution. I try to avoid half-fast "solutions" when possible.
Options include some rubber pieces without the ears, which would satisfy the basic function. But if a repro of the original part is available, I'd just as soon use that as source a generic piece.
Roger, I'll be looking for a few of those pin connectors when you can source the boots. I'm guessing SeanR will buy a dozen or two at the same time to use in his little harness hobby-business.
Standing by for your good news and all.
Options include some rubber pieces without the ears, which would satisfy the basic function. But if a repro of the original part is available, I'd just as soon use that as source a generic piece.
Roger, I'll be looking for a few of those pin connectors when you can source the boots. I'm guessing SeanR will buy a dozen or two at the same time to use in his little harness hobby-business.
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#23
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Update - the sample boots arrived from Germany and look ideal.
Length is 44mm and the inside diameter is 11mm.
We will do a trial installation and confirm they are good.
If they work they will be about $18 each or slightly less if I can get a better price for a larger quantity and bring the shipping cost down.
Length is 44mm and the inside diameter is 11mm.
We will do a trial installation and confirm they are good.
If they work they will be about $18 each or slightly less if I can get a better price for a larger quantity and bring the shipping cost down.
#24
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Dang, just finishing up another harness. Put one in my box and I'll put one on a harness later in the week.
#25
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Roger--
Drop a couple in an snail-pace envelope with a couple of the little electrical connectors when you get a chance. No rush. We are still in Oregon. Shoveling. Thanks!
Drop a couple in an snail-pace envelope with a couple of the little electrical connectors when you get a chance. No rush. We are still in Oregon. Shoveling. Thanks!
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Count me in for a few.
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If you could get the unit price down to $5 I'd take two dozen.
(That's two points on a non-linear curve. At $10 each I take more than two but a lot less than 24. 4 or 5 maybe...)
100% of these level sender connections I open-up are shiny or at least pretty good. If I'm the first one to take them off.
In case where I'm the not-1st-guy to take them off, I rarely find them properly seated (it's not easy.) In those cases, I usually have to resolder the pin (not due to me), and I do find some corrosion.
As long as the boot stays pliable and the car is operated semi-regularly, corrosion from moisture would be less - certainly no worse - than all the other not-o-ring-sealed connectors on our cars. Sure, once it gets baked, then it's not going to seal really well. And once baked, there's no way to disconnect the sender and then re-connect it and get the boot to seal again.
All that written, the real enemy to all of our connectors is humidity condensation cycles coupled with infrequent driving.
On the other hand, our weather here is significantly different than SoCal and 100% of the 928s I see are garage kept and don't see condensation cycles while sitting still.
But, my bottom line is: if the boot is pliable and I actually get it installed correctly, then corrosion is not something I'm going to worry about.
#30
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If you could get the unit price down to $5 I'd take two dozen.
The part maybe circa $6 in quantity but shipping and customs duty on a large order will also not help the cause. And I need to make a morsel or three 8>).