Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Rear hatch water channel

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-11-2016, 01:19 PM
  #1  
gazfish
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
gazfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Posts: 1,029
Received 190 Likes on 140 Posts
Default Rear hatch water channel

Hi All,

Removed my S2 rear center spoiler to track down a leak, most of the fixing brackets were rusted away and there was a lot of muck under there. There is a channel that runs around outside the glass down each side and at the bottom covered by the spoiler, should there be a drain hole at the bottom? Or should there be a rubber filler of some sort ?
Can't imagine the designers intended the water to collect there and the spoiler doesn't seal it.

Thanks,
Gary
Old 12-11-2016, 06:00 PM
  #2  
Mrmerlin
Team Owner
 
Mrmerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Philly PA
Posts: 28,360
Received 2,507 Likes on 1,412 Posts
Default

if your talking about the spoiler attach bolts to the hatch, these seal with non setting strip caulk.
I would suggest to use 3M sealing strip caulk placed around each hole.

NOTE this caulk is also good for sealing the blower box

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...8y1TnTDnnVloKQ
Old 12-11-2016, 06:21 PM
  #3  
gazfish
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
gazfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Posts: 1,029
Received 190 Likes on 140 Posts
Default

Thanks for the response, I probably wasn't very clear. There's a channel between the edge of the glass and the hatch frame where the rubber spacers are for the spoiler to fit on, water can get under the spoiler and sit in this channel at the bottom. Maybe if all the fittings on mine were in place water wouldn't get under the spoiler.
Old 12-11-2016, 06:49 PM
  #4  
Mrmerlin
Team Owner
 
Mrmerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Philly PA
Posts: 28,360
Received 2,507 Likes on 1,412 Posts
Default

no your correct,
water will sit in the channel,
to remove it,
open the hatch and it will run to the top of the window molding,
then blot the puddle with a towel
Old 12-11-2016, 06:55 PM
  #5  
James Bailey
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
James Bailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 18,061
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Yes a very common area for rust as mud sits there with no place to go.
Old 12-12-2016, 09:45 AM
  #6  
gazfish
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
gazfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Posts: 1,029
Received 190 Likes on 140 Posts
Default

Ok, thanks guys
Old 06-17-2020, 08:48 AM
  #7  
Oldewoodupes
Rennlist Member
 
Oldewoodupes's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Sarnia, Ontario
Posts: 188
Received 19 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Reviving an old thread to see if anyone has any new solutions to deal with this issue. I understand Stan’s idea, but I don’t feel all of the water will drain passed the clips that hold the trim in place, leaving water in the trough around the glass to rust out the hatch. I was thinking maybe removing the trim and spraying wd40 around the perimeter of the trough every year, but I’m sure someone has a better solution. Has anyone installed drain holes?
Old 06-17-2020, 06:58 PM
  #8  
GerritD
Rennlist Member
 
GerritD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: As - Belgium
Posts: 1,106
Received 74 Likes on 61 Posts
Talking

Originally Posted by gazfish
Hi All,

Removed my S2 rear center spoiler to track down a leak, most of the fixing brackets were rusted away and there was a lot of muck under there. There is a channel that runs around outside the glass down each side and at the bottom covered by the spoiler, should there be a drain hole at the bottom? Or should there be a rubber filler of some sort ?
Can't imagine the designers intended the water to collect there and the spoiler doesn't seal it.

Thanks,
Gary
I found the solution for my 928S.
Fill up the deep channels with black silicon. This way the water will only go over the windshield and will drip away along the drain holes at the back of the spoiler.
Water will not stay in the deep channels and this prevents rust and crud.
But I must say that my original metal black strips around the rear windshield are replaced by rubber strips that insert into a black plastic channel inside the deep channel. Much easier to remove in case of a paint job.
Here is a pic :




Old 06-18-2020, 10:19 AM
  #9  
Oldewoodupes
Rennlist Member
 
Oldewoodupes's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Sarnia, Ontario
Posts: 188
Received 19 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Thanks for the reply Gerrit. So, the original trim won’t fit into the new rubber seal around the window? Is the silicone under the rubber seal? Are you running without trim then, just the rubber seal? Any closer pics you could post to show the installation? Sorry for all the questions, but this is good stuff
Old 06-18-2020, 07:51 PM
  #10  
GerritD
Rennlist Member
 
GerritD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: As - Belgium
Posts: 1,106
Received 74 Likes on 61 Posts
Wink

Originally Posted by Oldewoodupes
Thanks for the reply Gerrit. So, the original trim won’t fit into the new rubber seal around the window? Is the silicone under the rubber seal? Are you running without trim then, just the rubber seal? Any closer pics you could post to show the installation? Sorry for all the questions, but this is good stuff
The original trim will not fit since the original metal trim is fixed with metal clips in the deep channel.
The custom made rubber seal around the window consist in fact of
- a plastic holder (glued with black silicon in the deep channel)
- a rubber seal (trim) that is clipsed in this plastic holder
I have the same config at the front windshield.
The rubber seal (trim) looks like this :


I will try to post some better pictures how it actually is on my 928S .
Old 06-18-2020, 10:28 PM
  #11  
Mrmerlin
Team Owner
 
Mrmerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Philly PA
Posts: 28,360
Received 2,507 Likes on 1,412 Posts
Default

another option but might make a bit of a mess inject the DC111 into the rusty areas,
the DC111 will make a water barrier so the metal will stop corroding use a brush to work it into the metal ,
use the 3M caulk to seal the plastic spacers
Old 06-19-2020, 11:47 AM
  #12  
Oldewoodupes
Rennlist Member
 
Oldewoodupes's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Sarnia, Ontario
Posts: 188
Received 19 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

That’s slick, Gerrit. I’d love to see what it looks like with rubber trim installed.

Stan, is this the stuff you’re talking about?



Old 06-19-2020, 11:36 PM
  #13  
GerritD
Rennlist Member
 
GerritD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: As - Belgium
Posts: 1,106
Received 74 Likes on 61 Posts
Talking

Originally Posted by Oldewoodupes
That’s slick, Gerrit. I’d love to see what it looks like with rubber trim installed.

Stan, is this the stuff you’re talking about?


Here already some pictures of my trim @ the rear windshield :





I will try to post also some more recent pictures as these pictures were taken about 8 years ago. But I can tell you that trim still looks perfect. Another advantage of having rubber trim instead of metal trim, it won't fade due to sun and other weather conditions.
Old 06-20-2020, 01:03 AM
  #14  
Mrmerlin
Team Owner
 
Mrmerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Philly PA
Posts: 28,360
Received 2,507 Likes on 1,412 Posts
Default

Thats the stuff it will also preserve the new rubber trim that Gerrit is posting
Old 06-20-2020, 02:12 AM
  #15  
GerritD
Rennlist Member
 
GerritD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: As - Belgium
Posts: 1,106
Received 74 Likes on 61 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Oldewoodupes
That’s slick, Gerrit. I’d love to see what it looks like with rubber trim installed.

Stan, is this the stuff you’re talking about?


some recent pics :

Front windshield


Rear windshield




Quick Reply: Rear hatch water channel



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 11:23 PM.