New Water Pump - Leaking Immediately...
12-17-2016 | 05:41 PM
#31
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Engine is now missing 6 degress of timing advance and most of its horsepower.
Pieces of the sender end of the connector are in the harness-side of the connector. Characteristic time-based failure of the connector. It won't plug back in btw.
Mechanic pulled the lead and broke the connector when he un-routed the front main engine harness to get the t-belt off. Not really his fault as it was likely either already disconnected or ready to fall off. However, he should have replaced the Hall sensor while he was in there after checking its condition (SOP during a belt job.)
12-17-2016 | 06:04 PM
#33
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
So it was the plug thankfully!!! Thank you all for this hell with this!
One last question, this three pin electrical plug doesn't seem to have a home. Does anyone know what it's for or where it's supposed to go??? My mechanic said he couldn't find anything in the area. It originates off the wire harness that is secured across the front of the belts off the silver bracket...
Attachment 1117986
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Attachment 1117987
One last question, this three pin electrical plug doesn't seem to have a home. Does anyone know what it's for or where it's supposed to go??? My mechanic said he couldn't find anything in the area. It originates off the wire harness that is secured across the front of the belts off the silver bracket...
Attachment 1117986
[ATTACH]1117985[/ATTACH
Attachment 1117987
12-18-2016 | 01:16 AM
#34
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From: Naperville, IL
Originally Posted by ammonman
Based on location I'd say it is the connector that plugs on to the Hall Sensor that lives on the back side of the passenger side timing cover up by the cam cover. It can be tough to see until you pull the cold air intake pipe off that side and move some other things aside.. If that sensor is unplugged the EZK is automatically pulling 6 degrees of ignition timing IIRC. This has a big impact on HP and overall performance. From the pictures there is some broken plastic from the other half it connects to stuck in that plug. This is a good indication that it's time to replace whatever this plug connects to.
Mike
Mike
Originally Posted by worf928
Mechanic pulled the lead and broke the connector when he un-routed the front main engine harness to get the t-belt off. Not really his fault as it was likely either already disconnected or ready to fall off.
Originally Posted by Lizard928
Hall sensor is what it is. However another note, replace your fuel lines immediately!!!!
Originally Posted by linderpat
My goodness, not trying to start a **** storm with you, but you need a new mechanic. First, he screwed the pooch on a pretty simple thing with that leaky WP; Second, it sounds like 928s aren't his area of specialty, particularly if he needed our help to find and correct the problem. Third, I cannot believe that he put all that rusty, filthy stuff back on your engine, such as those clamps and screws, and so forth. He should have taped up those exposed connectors with quality hi-temp silicone tape (or replaced the connectors), he should have at the very least cleaned up the filth around the shroud and the top of the engine where the water pump work was done. Good wrenches don't give back cars in that condition.
12-18-2016 | 09:26 AM
#35
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
...
He's a good friend of mine and did me a huge favor working on this for me. But no, he's not a Porsche mechanic but he's not afraid of a challenge either. He completed this in under ten hours even with the plug mishap. Would have taken me at least twice that long. He was working with what I gave him and I only gave him new belts and the coolant lines and water pump and such so he put back on what was taken off. Can't blame him for that... I will tidy up the engine once I pull the intake off to replace the fuel lines, clean the injectors, and refurb the intake. This car is a work in progress so there is a lot still to do. A lot.[/QUOTE]
Well that's a different story then. Good to have it figured out and good luck with the continued effort.
He's a good friend of mine and did me a huge favor working on this for me. But no, he's not a Porsche mechanic but he's not afraid of a challenge either. He completed this in under ten hours even with the plug mishap. Would have taken me at least twice that long. He was working with what I gave him and I only gave him new belts and the coolant lines and water pump and such so he put back on what was taken off. Can't blame him for that... I will tidy up the engine once I pull the intake off to replace the fuel lines, clean the injectors, and refurb the intake. This car is a work in progress so there is a lot still to do. A lot.[/QUOTE]
Well that's a different story then. Good to have it figured out and good luck with the continued effort.
03-16-2017 | 06:00 PM
#36
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From: Naperville, IL
Does anyone actually pressure wash these engines? Or is that just asking for trouble?
03-16-2017 | 06:36 PM
#38
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From: Up Nort
It's like anything, there are right ways, wrong ways, and OMG YOU DID WHAT??? ways of taking a pressure washer to a car (and engine).
Lower pressure, wide tip....don't aim at the base of the distributor....... or better yet like Ray did above, cover important bits with plastic.
Cranking my 17hp unit to 4,000psi with the 0 degree tip....I can cut through a spark plug wire. Don't do that.
Lower pressure, wide tip....don't aim at the base of the distributor....... or better yet like Ray did above, cover important bits with plastic.
Cranking my 17hp unit to 4,000psi with the 0 degree tip....I can cut through a spark plug wire. Don't do that.