Primer type.
12-01-2016, 12:49 PM
#1
Primer type.
I'm still at a stand still with some of the interior trim and speakers so I'm going to divert my rebuild attention to the body work.
I have a verbal agreement with a few body shops on a exterior respray if I take care of most of the body work and prep. With that said any reccomendations on primer to use on both the steel and aluminum panels. Or should I get specifics for both? Thanks.
I have a verbal agreement with a few body shops on a exterior respray if I take care of most of the body work and prep. With that said any reccomendations on primer to use on both the steel and aluminum panels. Or should I get specifics for both? Thanks.
12-01-2016, 01:40 PM
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Parallel typing with Doc Mirror, who knows what he speaks.
Talk with the folks who will do the painting about what system they will use. You'll be looking for compatible prep products. It's quite likely that they buy their favorites at a much better price point than you could in the retail market, so it's certainly worth buying the right stuff from the painter if they will share some of their discounts.
Use caution when sanding, so that you can preserve intact the base coats on at least the aluminum panels (hood, fenders, door skins) as much as possible. There are enough aluminum panels on modern cars that you should be able to prep and recoat if necessary with relatively easy to find products. Again, visit your painter for guidance.
Doing all the prep yourself is a potential minefield, especially if you aren't seriously proficient at it. Were it me and I wanted to do some of the work myself, I'd still have the paint shop guys do the last sealer and primer coats and any final blocking needed, so that they could take full responsibility for the finish quality. If you are comfortable with metal straightening, go for it. Finish prep is an art that's learned with experience though, and your 928 may not be your best choice as a practice palette.
Sanding just to remove old paint is something that's best left to the paint shop's relatively low-wage staff, in my opinion. It's a dusty mess no matter how careful you are. You may or may not have the right equipment, especially an air compressor and air drier big enough to support your sanding and finishing equipment. In the last several years there was a great thread about a DIY prep and paint effort by an owner in the south. The results are pretty nice, but the amount of time and effort needed was a lot. Several rework steps were needed to recover from mistakes. Modern materials are not cheap, and your time isn't really free, so each rework step quickly gouges a chunk of your "savings".
Disassembly of the car offers an opportunity to save, plus it gives you a chance to make the quality of that work a little better than what you might get in the average paint shop. You get to decide how to inventory and maybe prep fasteners, and maybe preserve intact things like window moldings that are easily bent or destroyed with careless removal. You get to remove door sill trim and seals, window moldings, plus seats and other major interior pieces you don't want filled with dust and overspray. Remove the dash and pod, console and rugs. Those will be cleaned and refurbished as needed while the car is at the paint shop. Remove all the wheelhouse liners, and wrap any parts you don't want painted. And make it clear to the paint shop that you don't need any paint on the suspension, engine bits, wheels, interior, etc. Make sure you have a source for replacement stickers, particularly doorjamb ID labels and such. Negotiate in advance where you want the tape lines to end up, the hard edge between new paint and old paint. Hood, hatch and doorjamb areas are particularly sensitive areas for this. Decide if now is a good time to replace that crumbling foam hood liner, since the underside of the hood will be prep'd and painted. Don't Paint The Hinges Or Latches -- remove them completely early in your prep process. Ditto door locks, latches and handles. Side molding decision time is now -- remove and refinish, or remove and weld the holes. Lots of things for you to do, without all the mess of sanding off paint.
Talk with the folks who will do the painting about what system they will use. You'll be looking for compatible prep products. It's quite likely that they buy their favorites at a much better price point than you could in the retail market, so it's certainly worth buying the right stuff from the painter if they will share some of their discounts.
Use caution when sanding, so that you can preserve intact the base coats on at least the aluminum panels (hood, fenders, door skins) as much as possible. There are enough aluminum panels on modern cars that you should be able to prep and recoat if necessary with relatively easy to find products. Again, visit your painter for guidance.
Doing all the prep yourself is a potential minefield, especially if you aren't seriously proficient at it. Were it me and I wanted to do some of the work myself, I'd still have the paint shop guys do the last sealer and primer coats and any final blocking needed, so that they could take full responsibility for the finish quality. If you are comfortable with metal straightening, go for it. Finish prep is an art that's learned with experience though, and your 928 may not be your best choice as a practice palette.
Sanding just to remove old paint is something that's best left to the paint shop's relatively low-wage staff, in my opinion. It's a dusty mess no matter how careful you are. You may or may not have the right equipment, especially an air compressor and air drier big enough to support your sanding and finishing equipment. In the last several years there was a great thread about a DIY prep and paint effort by an owner in the south. The results are pretty nice, but the amount of time and effort needed was a lot. Several rework steps were needed to recover from mistakes. Modern materials are not cheap, and your time isn't really free, so each rework step quickly gouges a chunk of your "savings".
Disassembly of the car offers an opportunity to save, plus it gives you a chance to make the quality of that work a little better than what you might get in the average paint shop. You get to decide how to inventory and maybe prep fasteners, and maybe preserve intact things like window moldings that are easily bent or destroyed with careless removal. You get to remove door sill trim and seals, window moldings, plus seats and other major interior pieces you don't want filled with dust and overspray. Remove the dash and pod, console and rugs. Those will be cleaned and refurbished as needed while the car is at the paint shop. Remove all the wheelhouse liners, and wrap any parts you don't want painted. And make it clear to the paint shop that you don't need any paint on the suspension, engine bits, wheels, interior, etc. Make sure you have a source for replacement stickers, particularly doorjamb ID labels and such. Negotiate in advance where you want the tape lines to end up, the hard edge between new paint and old paint. Hood, hatch and doorjamb areas are particularly sensitive areas for this. Decide if now is a good time to replace that crumbling foam hood liner, since the underside of the hood will be prep'd and painted. Don't Paint The Hinges Or Latches -- remove them completely early in your prep process. Ditto door locks, latches and handles. Side molding decision time is now -- remove and refinish, or remove and weld the holes. Lots of things for you to do, without all the mess of sanding off paint.
12-03-2016, 05:13 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
You need at least two different primers for a bulletproof refinish that will last. If you have rubstrips, you need a 2k urethane with flex additive added. The metal work needs to be done before a 2k epoxy can be applied. Then, any filler work should be done over the epoxy. After the filler work is complete, then you go to 2k urethane over everything. You may opt to add flex additive to the primer that you apply on the polyurethane bumpers, but this is more optional whereas having the flex additive in the primer for the rubstrips is a necessity, in my opinion. Epoxy primer is essential over the aluminum panels, but I would apply it over all metal substrates before filler application. Not essential over the bumpers or rubstrips.
As far as brands are concerned, there are several great undercoat systems out there across many manufacturers.
What color is your 928?
As far as brands are concerned, there are several great undercoat systems out there across many manufacturers.
What color is your 928?
12-03-2016, 05:58 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
I am not an advocate of stripping the 928 to raw substrate as is done for old American muscle cars with lesser quality undercoats. The 928 had undercoats far ahead of its time. Once the electrostatic coatings are removed they can't be replaced by way of manual spray gun. The less invasive the repair and refinish effort, the better with these machines.
12-04-2016, 10:17 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
To the OP: You might check out Kiln_Red's bona fides here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...4-rebirth.html He has some good advice, I think, about how far to take it down when refinishing a 928.
Trending Topics
12-04-2016, 12:12 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
I am not an advocate of stripping the 928 to raw substrate as is done for old American muscle cars with lesser quality undercoats. The 928 had undercoats far ahead of its time. Once the electrostatic coatings are removed they can't be replaced by way of manual spray gun. The less invasive the repair and refinish effort, the better with these machines.
T
12-04-2016, 01:11 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Before I went into business for myself, I was fortunate to have a former employer send me to school to be certified for warranty refinishing by BASF for Glasurit products. I was blessed to be the beneficiary of a wealth of information provided by their engineers. They know their products and they know their customers. The fact that Porsche has chosen them repeatedly for their factory coatings is a testament to their service and quality.
I feel blessed to have had the privilege of having access to this info and I don't mind to pass on anything that I know to members of the 928 community. Of course using Glasurit products aren't required for a brilliant refinish, and I am happy to advise anyone on achieving the best possible refinish no matter the products.
There is no limit to the ways the 928 was ahead of its time. Thank you all for your compliments.
I feel blessed to have had the privilege of having access to this info and I don't mind to pass on anything that I know to members of the 928 community. Of course using Glasurit products aren't required for a brilliant refinish, and I am happy to advise anyone on achieving the best possible refinish no matter the products.
There is no limit to the ways the 928 was ahead of its time. Thank you all for your compliments.