Kevin in Atlanta

I need somebody local to me to remove and re-bed the windshield and nobody will touch it because they are afraid they will be held responsible if they break it.

Argh.

Safelite wants $475+ to replace it.

Collision place wants $221 to remove and replace - I provide the replacement if needed.

Trying to price this out. Porsche lists an installation kit. (Pt# 477898011A) Would that also be required?

Kiln_Red

Is the current glass held in by modern urethane, or is still the original adhesive? If you're not sure, you can gently poke around the A-pillar mating flange with a pocket screwdriver or the like. Original adhesive will leave residue and still feel pliable. Modern urethane is rock solid.

I have *almost* perfected removal & re-install of the 928 windshield if you want to try it yourself. If the glass has been replaced before, then I would advise hiring it out of course. The hardest part isn't the process of cutting the urethane. It's doing it such that the painted surfaces don't get messed up in the process.

firemn131

My windshield is original and pitted. Hard to see out of it when sun is shining.
I was surprised to hear that glass shops would do it, and have a replacement.
On my list if a buffing kit doesn't show promise.

docmirror

I can't help you, but if I were in the glass install biz, I would send you elsewhere as well. The team that most glass companies hire are baffled by anything that doesn't say Ford, Toyota, Kia, or Chrysler.

Having removed windshields before, even if I go slow it breaks about 30% of the time no matter what. Auto safety glass does not want to move once it's in place.

James Bailey

make sure your comprehensive insurance is current and throw a rock !!!! not really

Dave928S

I wouldn't do that either ...

BTW Jim .. we need a fresh Santa photo. Haven't you got one holding a baby, or an attractive young lady perhaps?

Mrmerlin

Kevin before you try a reseal, I would get some blue tape and tape off the roof and the black trim.
run a bead of silicone along the top seam.

What I found is that water will run into the rivets of the top seam trim,
the rivets that hold the clips on then let water run into the roof.

I have sealed a few windshields like this,
takes about 20 mins.

otherwise to test to see where its leaking,
put one piece of tape over the roof to trim seam at to the top of the roof.
then spray with a hose ,

AirtekHVAC

I have a 100% failure rate...I have tried it once....
​​​​​​​not really helpful, huh?

Kevin in Atlanta

Well, I would like to do that, but I am concerned about rust as this leak has been around for years and the nasty black goop the PO applied to the inside of the windshield.

I have found a glass installer that is not afraid and for the tidy sum of $150 will slowly, carefully remove the glass clean out all the PO's previous attempts to seal the leak inside and out and then reinstall the windshield. Armed with your comments I will make sure to properly seal the rivet holes.

Thanks for your advise.

Chalkboss

Prior to my ownership some hack "resealed" the windshield. It looked bad, lots of glop smeared around the edges, and it also leaked- right into my lap! There was glop on the VIN tag even. Three years later I got sick of the sand blasted and pitted windshield and had it replaced at Safelite. I heard good and bad things, but I insisted on a Porsche part and after waiting a few weeks got it installed. It was not a Sekurit, but a Pilkington, and I think it was around 8-900 for the part (w/antennae). Same optical specifications as the Sekurit.

I watched the tech work on it and he was very thorough, cleaning all the old slop out and carefully sealing and placing the new one in. Very clean install and it looks absolutely fantastic and no leaks!

jcorenman

Kevin, is this your '87? Original windshield? If so, then it was installed with the sticky butyl rubber as noted above-- which may well be the "nasty black goop" that you noted. Perhaps factory and not PO.

The good news is that the nasty black goop makes the windshield easy to remove-- just push it out gently and slowly, after removing the trim. Cleanup is a bit messy and needs to be done completely and carefully.

The bad news is that removing the top trim without cracking the glass is about a one-in-three chance. Side-trims are easy as long as you understand which way to tap them for removal, but the top trim is held on by very strong clips and needs to be pried away from the glass without undue pressure on the glass.

Knowing where the clips are can help greatly, see this post: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/910486-new-windshield.html#post12873756
But that only reduces the odds to fifty-fifty.

Peeling off the top trim away from the glass with vice-grips (i.e. destructively) will certainly save the glass, but top trims are around $120.

What's the glass worth? If it is indeed original then it has almost 30 years worth of pits, you are functionally blind driving into the setting sun. Time for a new one. Talk to your insurance company, they are usually good about glass-- your ability to see where you are going is important to them.

Kiln_Red

The top trim is a PITA. The best way that I have found to managing its removal is to remove the two lateral trim pieces first. Only tools I will use is one plastic clip removal tool and patience. You can bare hand it, too, with good results. Just rock the top trim toward the rear of the car until you can unlock one of either corner clips. When this is achieved, each successive clip becomes easier to unlock as you use the same gentle rocking motion and go from one side to the other.

To do so without breaking the glass is easy. To do so without bending the trim such that it is ruined is another achievement entirely.

Chalkboss

I forgot to mention- I removed all the windshield trim beforehand myself. I had refinished the trim in SEM black a few months prior and heard about techs mangling the trim trying to get it out...

Kevin in Atlanta

Thanks for the link.

One of my 87s. Glass is not original. It is in near perfect condition otherwise we would be having different conversation. The goop was applied from inside the car. I've already factored a replacement top piece into my calculations if it is ruined. Hopefully it will not come to that.

Kevin in Atlanta

I have an '88 with a cracked windshield sitting in my backyard. I have the plastic trim removal tools from HF. I am going to practice on it. Basically, I will use blue painters tape to mark where the clips are and try to remove the top trim following the links referenced above.