Catorce

So I am trying to finish up the back half of the car and move onto the front suspension and associated minutia.

I had a couple things outstanding in order to accomplish this:

1. Bolt down surge tank, fuel pumps, etc.
2. Reinstall firewall.

I had removed the firewall before this thread because it is easily bent (made of aluminum) and it gets in the way. It was riveted down originally, so I re-riveted it back in place.

Some speculators out there were wondering if my surge tank fuel cell setup was legal, and the simple answer is NO - unless there is a metal firewall in place separating the fuel cell from the driver compartment.

Devore knew this and planned for it.

new catchphrase: Don't Doubt The Devore.

Don't. Do. it.

Without further ado, here is more of Bob's craftsmanship!

Catorce

With the rear of the car mostly done, it's time to look into the front suspension and see what's there. To be honest, I haven't even had the front wheels off.

First of all, working with removable fenders is THE BOMB. No creepers, no jacking, just pull up a stool. Really nice!

As soon as I pulled the wheel off, I was greeted with the usual stack of Devore wheel spacers. There is nothing inherently wrong with wheel spacers; many race cars use them and the 911 Turbo came with 1" spacers in the rear from the factory.

These ones however, are cheap, not wheel centric, and there are too many stacked. Another fix ahead...

You can see that the coilover is all out of travel, which is why the front now looks like it's ready to race the Baja 1000. Compare the picture of the new coilovers and see how much further down the sleeve goes.

Check out the brake rotor. Besides surface rust, it is in as new condition and I will sand blast it. The hat looks to be aluminum. Anyone recognize these calipers????

On the good side, every single bushing is some sort of alumunim / delrin unit that fit really nice and are very smooth. Not sure what brand they are; perhaps they are custom, but they are of outstanding quality and look like new. Ball joints also like new, just dirty.

Overall, looks like I am going to clean everything up, rebuild the caliper, put in new wheel bearings (the oil seal is a goner) regrease the bushings, and put it all back together again.

Rob Edwards

They look like S4 front calipers. What diameter are the front rotors? 304ish?

Don't quote me but I think you're going to need a new front crossmember to run Carl's solid engine mounts.

Catorce

Hey Rob,

I meant the rotors. Do those look familiar? They are vintage for sure, wondering what brand they are. They are 12" ~304, S4 fit.

I'll check with Carl on the crossmember

Rob Edwards

The only guy old enough to know about those rotors is Anderson, maybe he'll chime in after the matinee.

Mark Anderson

The brakes looks like Coleman
http://www.colemanracing.com/Hat-Gra...nal-P4201.aspx

those front A arms are what I did for Bob. I had Global
West make them
http://www.globalwest.net/

Catorce

Mark,

THANKS!

I just disassembled the A arm and the LCA. They are like new. The grease is nasty and old but the aluminum and the bushing material is basically new. I wonder if these have any miles on them at all.....

Thanks for the info as always!!!!!

Carl Fausett

Our solid engine mounts fit all Porsche 928's from 1983-1995.

This is the time to put in a three-piece cross-member if you want one.
https://928motorsports.com/parts/crossmember.php

Some racers (like me) swear by putting in a new set of rod bearings in with the motor in the car every 2nd year or so (raises the oil pressure right back up and tightens up the bottom end). Cheap insurance against throwing a rod. Hard to remove the oil pan on a 928 for race engine service without a 3-piece cross-member, easy as heck with it. No need to remove the engine cross-member, no loss of alignment either.

Lower engine maintenance made easy.

Plus: if you have a 78-82 engine cross-member, this is a great way to upgrade to the later cross-member that uses the late style mounts.

Dave928S

I have no idea what your regs require for the rear firewall, but here a firewall should also be a fume/vapour block from the driver compartment, and vented to outside for vapour and liquid. I also have my doubts as to the ability of light gauge aluminum to resist a fire or vapour explosion. Worth considering for your safety.

While on the subject of safety, its also worth making sure your front firewall and any vents do not allow engine compartment/exhaust air into the cabin. A dedicated fresh air driver vent (to also give constant cabin fresh air flushing) is worthwhile. Here's why ... http://www.thecourier.com.au/story/2...-driver-crick/

Catorce

Good enough Carl,

Throw one of those in with the sway bar. Looks nice!

Catorce

Man, I was really wondering about the air tight nature of the firewall. My regs are sufficiently vague; there are exactly two - they both read something like:

"All cars must be equipped with metal firewalls separating the driver compartment from the engine and fuel compartments. All openings and holes in the firewalls must be sealed with metal or materials equal or better than OEM"

This is a really vague and loose definition and Porsches of this vintage DEFINITELY do not have vapor / liquid proof firewalls.

I was thinking of sealing the seams on the rear firewall with SEM Seam Sealer which would pretty much plug it (it is an OEM style product), but the top plate with the dzus fasteners is definitely not capable of being vapor or liquid proof.

The rear chamber is vented to the outside though.

Good point made Dave!

Catorce

Applying the correct torque to the 928 axle nuts is made difficult by the fact that it requires 339 lb/ft of torque, which well exceeds the capability of most torque wrenches.

There is a simple math formula you can use to calculate how much weight you need to place on the end of a cheater bar to achieve the correct torque:

339 ft/ lb * 1/2 diameter of the earth^3 / .558888000 x Cosine of Ferry Porsche's Birthday (Julian Calendar) *1.9288 x the cylinder bore of the motor (depends on the year of 928).

I hate Math. Just use a big frigging torque wrench!

pcar928fan

I am the current owner of Mark's old race car that was a relative to this car. I got it as a rolling chassis and got it back on track. Raced it a few times (2nd place it two sprint races) and tracked it a fair bit. Not nearly enough to warrant the $$$ spent. Now I'm ready to sell that car. You can see it in my "garage" pics. Many here are at least tangentially familiar with the car.

I look forward to following the resurrection of this DeVore car!

Catorce

Pcar,

Awesome!! The picture looks like it has the same Kevlar flares as my car. Is there just the one picture? I am not too familiar with how to use this site. Looks great, can you tell me more about your car -what motor, etc. Please post a pic!

pcar928fan

I will try and get back on tonight and post some more or find the thread about the car. It was Mark's first big race car and does indeed share your front fender flares. It was built on an '80 Euro S chassis and currently has a very tired Euro S motor installed. The roll cage is amazing and since I am in a wheelchair we made it even more amazing by making it open and close with the drivers door!! YES!

Has a '90 4 speed auto trans installed, but Mark ran it with a manual of course. Mark also had a big stroker motor in the car and it was FAST!! VERY FAST! Less so with me! I'm not nearly the driver Mark is, nor do I have the HP he was running.

Currently on the 16 X 12" mags with slicks. Also 18" X 11" wheels for rain tires. Lots of custom suspension stuff like on your car. S4 brakes with remote vacuum power assist.

Really cool car. It just needs a new home where it can go out to the track regularly...or if your local constibulary are easy going it could be street legal. It has blinkers, wiper, horn and lights (even a light for the license plate! ;-)

I was diagnosed with Meniers disease quite a few years ago and laid off right after that so I have not had wellness or funds to actually hit the track. ((

Love my 928's!