HIGHWAYMAN: Bringing the Devore 928 back from the dead
12-21-2016, 09:10 PM
#286
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I put the details on my website:
http://928.jorj7.com/fuel/
Though I've made a few minor changes since then.
__________________
George
90 S4 Grand Prix White (Murf #5)
94 GTS 5-Speed Midnight Blue
06 Cayenne S Havanna/Sand Beige (PASM)
http://928.jorj7.com
12-21-2016, 09:55 PM
#287
Banned
Thread Starter
That's interesting. Really goes to show you how much of this stuff really needs to be custom made. When I did the Camaro, we literally bought off the shelf items to build the car.
Injectors on that were Injector Dynamics ID850s, about 85 lb/ hr (885 Cc/min), and a Lingenfelter dual fuel pump system which was a drop in unit to the stock tank. The Lingenfelter came with a controller which was tuned with a laptop, and we used the stock GM ECU with a custom tune (that took months to perfect).
Made 800 whp totally asleep. I am maxed out on that car because of the Lingenfelter twin pump system which is only good for about 900 hp. The Vortech V7 Ysi on the car is good for 1400 hp, and if I wanted more boost I would need to upgrade to the SQUASH fuel system.
I say all this only because it is literally an online order to get all this stuff and the combinations are already tried and true and plug and play.
Like your site, good job figuring it all out!
Injectors on that were Injector Dynamics ID850s, about 85 lb/ hr (885 Cc/min), and a Lingenfelter dual fuel pump system which was a drop in unit to the stock tank. The Lingenfelter came with a controller which was tuned with a laptop, and we used the stock GM ECU with a custom tune (that took months to perfect).
Made 800 whp totally asleep. I am maxed out on that car because of the Lingenfelter twin pump system which is only good for about 900 hp. The Vortech V7 Ysi on the car is good for 1400 hp, and if I wanted more boost I would need to upgrade to the SQUASH fuel system.
I say all this only because it is literally an online order to get all this stuff and the combinations are already tried and true and plug and play.
Like your site, good job figuring it all out!
12-21-2016, 10:00 PM
#288
Banned
Thread Starter
This is the system:
http://www.lingenfelter.com/forum_li...trol-2010-2011
Literally, a drop in. Now getting the tank out of the car is a nightmare, but once the tank is out it is a 10 minute job to hook this up. Also needed a BAP to boost the voltage.
Wish there was more stuff like this for the 928.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/forum_li...trol-2010-2011
Literally, a drop in. Now getting the tank out of the car is a nightmare, but once the tank is out it is a 10 minute job to hook this up. Also needed a BAP to boost the voltage.
Wish there was more stuff like this for the 928.
12-23-2016, 02:47 PM
#289
Banned
Thread Starter
Axles
Rebuilt the axles today. Not a lot of pictures since this is a messy job and it's hard to photograph it without getting grease everywhere.
Some notes:
- These are the 930 CVs I was talking about. Curiously, if you look up the actual CV in the 930 PET, it shows a 928 part number for the axle flange (already have those from the old axles), so they must be close / identical. In any case, as stated earlier, 930 CVs are $50 each.
- Axle shafts stripped down and painted.
- Use one packet of grease per CV joint, don't skimp. Pack the grease in tightly while moving the joint around to spread it evenly.
- Use Curil T on the paper gaskets, it keeps them from slipping of while you mate the flanges with the CVs, and also provides an extra degree of leak proof.
- I have a set of aluminum jaws for my vise for clamping down on sensitive things. Clamp the stub axle down and then you can torque the CV joint bolts right there on the bench.
- I use the blind covers secured with tape to keep the CV clean until it's installed on the car. If you had longer bolts, you could permanently use the cover - that's what it's for.
- CV joint has a groove machined on the outside - groove goes on the OUTSIDE, both sides.
- I ran out of large oetiker clamps for the big ends...coming soon.
Some notes:
- These are the 930 CVs I was talking about. Curiously, if you look up the actual CV in the 930 PET, it shows a 928 part number for the axle flange (already have those from the old axles), so they must be close / identical. In any case, as stated earlier, 930 CVs are $50 each.
- Axle shafts stripped down and painted.
- Use one packet of grease per CV joint, don't skimp. Pack the grease in tightly while moving the joint around to spread it evenly.
- Use Curil T on the paper gaskets, it keeps them from slipping of while you mate the flanges with the CVs, and also provides an extra degree of leak proof.
- I have a set of aluminum jaws for my vise for clamping down on sensitive things. Clamp the stub axle down and then you can torque the CV joint bolts right there on the bench.
- I use the blind covers secured with tape to keep the CV clean until it's installed on the car. If you had longer bolts, you could permanently use the cover - that's what it's for.
- CV joint has a groove machined on the outside - groove goes on the OUTSIDE, both sides.
- I ran out of large oetiker clamps for the big ends...coming soon.
12-28-2016, 02:48 PM
#293
Banned
Thread Starter
Yep, no idea. There are a couple reasons why this car will be heavier than it used to be:
- 32 valve engine vs 16 valve
- more safety gear than the old car had
All in all I would be happy with a 2800 pound weight (no driver), but until I weigh it with engine it's all speculation....
- 32 valve engine vs 16 valve
- more safety gear than the old car had
All in all I would be happy with a 2800 pound weight (no driver), but until I weigh it with engine it's all speculation....
12-28-2016, 03:14 PM
#295
Banned
Thread Starter
WOW that's cool! I didn't even know that was possible??? Who writes this stuff??
Really cool to have the car featured like that. It definitely deserves it!
Really cool to have the car featured like that. It definitely deserves it!
12-28-2016, 03:57 PM
#297
Banned
Thread Starter
Well the author has my gratitude and thanks for putting the spotlight on the grandaddy of 928 tuner cars, long neglected and much deserving of some attention.
THANK YOU!
THANK YOU!
12-28-2016, 08:16 PM
#298
Banned
Thread Starter
Putting it back together
Now that the rear axle and drive train of the car have been cleaned, inspected, and in some cases rebuilt, it's time to think about putting it all back together again.
The first thing I did was to remove the 500 pound rear springs from the old coilovers. I want to stick with the spring rate that Devore decided on, which means I need the old springs.
The lightly used double adjustable Konis I bought from Darien have 425 pound springs, plus a helper spring on the bottom (installed wrong by the way, no fault of Darien's), which are meant to give this street setup a progressive spring rate, which I don't need.
A little automotive archeology is in order...note the date of the old Koni (red one) - 1993 - which meant that shortly after that time Bob started fiddling with the suspension on this car. Cool!
Easiest way to strip these down is with an impact wrench on the top nut. Don't go nuts here!
Once the top nut was off I took the whole shebang apart and transferred the old spring over. You can see the old versus new in the bottom pic - 500 pound vs 425 pound with progressive helper spring.
The first thing I did was to remove the 500 pound rear springs from the old coilovers. I want to stick with the spring rate that Devore decided on, which means I need the old springs.
The lightly used double adjustable Konis I bought from Darien have 425 pound springs, plus a helper spring on the bottom (installed wrong by the way, no fault of Darien's), which are meant to give this street setup a progressive spring rate, which I don't need.
A little automotive archeology is in order...note the date of the old Koni (red one) - 1993 - which meant that shortly after that time Bob started fiddling with the suspension on this car. Cool!
Easiest way to strip these down is with an impact wrench on the top nut. Don't go nuts here!
Once the top nut was off I took the whole shebang apart and transferred the old spring over. You can see the old versus new in the bottom pic - 500 pound vs 425 pound with progressive helper spring.
12-28-2016, 08:46 PM
#299
Banned
Thread Starter
Torque Tube
Next up is assembly of the torque tube, trans, and bellhousing. Because of the fact that replacing the torque tube requires removal of either the engine or tranny, I'm not going to chance it.
Picked up a rebuilt torque tube from 928 International as cheap insurance!
I bolted the torque tube to the trans along with the rear crossmember and bellhousing.
This is actually the way i am goign to put it back in the car - sans wheel hubs, springs, etc.
The reason for this was gravity was a big helper in removing the drivetrain and rear suspension in one piece, but it will be a different story putting it all back in. If I had 2-3 guys I would do it in one piece, but as it stands it's easy enough to put the trans and TT in, bolt it up, and then do the rear suspension one side at a time.
Tomorrow I'll throw the shifter on and get the thing bolted in!
Picked up a rebuilt torque tube from 928 International as cheap insurance!
I bolted the torque tube to the trans along with the rear crossmember and bellhousing.
This is actually the way i am goign to put it back in the car - sans wheel hubs, springs, etc.
The reason for this was gravity was a big helper in removing the drivetrain and rear suspension in one piece, but it will be a different story putting it all back in. If I had 2-3 guys I would do it in one piece, but as it stands it's easy enough to put the trans and TT in, bolt it up, and then do the rear suspension one side at a time.
Tomorrow I'll throw the shifter on and get the thing bolted in!
