How to tell a Euro S from a regular Euro OB?
#1
How to tell a Euro S from a regular Euro OB?
There is a local 928 listed on Craigslist as an 82 Euro S. It is definitely a Euro model (based on the fenders and rear bumper at least) but there is no front or rear spoiler leading me to wonder if someone has just put an S decal on the back.
Is there an engine designation or a way to tell from the VIN or anything under the hood that could confirm if the car is really an "S"?
Thanks.
Is there an engine designation or a way to tell from the VIN or anything under the hood that could confirm if the car is really an "S"?
Thanks.
#3
I posted pics from the seller this morning. The car is a regular and not an S model. No spoilers and the spider legs are way too narrow. It's likely a 4.5L CIS m28/10 and not the 4.7L cis euro s that has engine codes m28/11 (manual) or m28/12 (auto).
All pre-'84 euro s are single distributors. Only the LH 84-86 euro are twin distributors.
All pre-'84 euro s are single distributors. Only the LH 84-86 euro are twin distributors.
#4
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Best to verify based on the engine number. Look at the top front of the block above the water pump mounting for this number. At this point in time, engines in Euro cars stand a reasonable chance of replacement at some point in their history.
#6
An OB is a 78 or 79 and an S started in 1980 so just look at the modl year.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#7
If you can drive it, a non S starts to run out of breath above 5k rpm, the S doesn't and you should feel a bump in hp around 3500. Below 3000 both feel about the same. Once you have driven both the difference isn't subtle.
If you can't drive it, you can't be "sure" everything that makes it an S is there even if the VIN is correct. Some people would replace a broken S cam with a non S to save money, everything else you can do a visual check on to make sure (motor ID, Intake part number/size, casting number on heads, WUR on CIS, and dual dist on 84-86)
If you can't drive it, you can't be "sure" everything that makes it an S is there even if the VIN is correct. Some people would replace a broken S cam with a non S to save money, everything else you can do a visual check on to make sure (motor ID, Intake part number/size, casting number on heads, WUR on CIS, and dual dist on 84-86)
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#8
This is a close up view of the codes. As others have stated, you are looking for M28/11 or M28/12. You will have to have a rag with you as they are never this clean or legible in someones field or barn. You MAY have to remove the upper radiator hose by the thermostat to really get in there and get a good look. Missing the rear spoiler is a clue that it might just be a 4.5 but if you take the time to go see it then you may as well settle it for yourself.
#9
Engine number means nothing. Only way to tell S is by checking VIN. If one is only interested on having 300hp engine then just engine number is enough but that way one can end up with non matching numbers car and also non S brakes and G28/03 gearbox if car is early '80 MY non S.