OB instruments inop
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 30
From: Wine Country, CA
OB instruments inop
I have an intermittent problem with the dash instruments on my '82.
If it sits for a while, sometimes the instruments don't work. The turn signal light is on steady, and tach, speedo, etc are dead.
Other times the speedo reads about 20-30mph & fluctuates (not with actual speed), but the tach doesn't move and other instruments are dead. Usually, it clears itself after awhile - but, sometimes, not.
I assume I have a sticking relay, but which one?
James
If it sits for a while, sometimes the instruments don't work. The turn signal light is on steady, and tach, speedo, etc are dead.
Other times the speedo reads about 20-30mph & fluctuates (not with actual speed), but the tach doesn't move and other instruments are dead. Usually, it clears itself after awhile - but, sometimes, not.
I assume I have a sticking relay, but which one?
James
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,743
Likes: 78
From: Minneapolis
Your car has general electrical arthritis.
At this point, every contact point has corrosion if you haven't cleaned it recently. Look for the list of grounds and start there. Then move on to all connectors. People (me included) find the Deoxit spray to work well. Ya take something apart, sprtz it, wipe it, and put it back. For connectors, do a few on/off/on cycles. This also works for all the relay pins. Get the connectors on the CE panel, too. Fuses will respond to a spin in-place.
Your worst-case issue is having problems in the pod itself. That's a PITA to fix and the foil (if not newer) is crisp. I'd expect that you'd have problems there that will be very touchy to fix. The connectors at the pod go onto folded flexible circuit and that gets crispy over time. It's tempting to say "do the pod" but, personally, I'll fix everything else before digging into that and hope it gets good enough without opening that kettle of fishy barreled monkeys.
Oh yeah, an '82 isn't an OB.
At this point, every contact point has corrosion if you haven't cleaned it recently. Look for the list of grounds and start there. Then move on to all connectors. People (me included) find the Deoxit spray to work well. Ya take something apart, sprtz it, wipe it, and put it back. For connectors, do a few on/off/on cycles. This also works for all the relay pins. Get the connectors on the CE panel, too. Fuses will respond to a spin in-place.
Your worst-case issue is having problems in the pod itself. That's a PITA to fix and the foil (if not newer) is crisp. I'd expect that you'd have problems there that will be very touchy to fix. The connectors at the pod go onto folded flexible circuit and that gets crispy over time. It's tempting to say "do the pod" but, personally, I'll fix everything else before digging into that and hope it gets good enough without opening that kettle of fishy barreled monkeys.
Oh yeah, an '82 isn't an OB.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 117
Likes: 4
From: Winnipeg, MB
I also have an '82 (OB!) and had a similar problem. Turned out to be one of the smaller wires that connects to the positive terminal directly at the battery. Pulled them all off, cleaned them and tightened them up really well and all went back to normal.
But Glen is right too (except for the OB comment!) - Deoxit works really well and you need to clean all the connections every year. For whatever reason, these cars are corrosion magnets.
But Glen is right too (except for the OB comment!) - Deoxit works really well and you need to clean all the connections every year. For whatever reason, these cars are corrosion magnets.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,081
Likes: 165
From: The Great White North
You might be able to reach up from underneath and wiggle the connections but if you do, do so carefully. The connectors have little tabs to secure them in place and breaking them won't help.
I have the same problem as you and recently took the Pod off in order to deoxit the connections. While you're there you can replace any bulbs if required.
A search of this forum will lead you to plenty of discussion, tips and how-tos.
I have the same problem as you and recently took the Pod off in order to deoxit the connections. While you're there you can replace any bulbs if required.
A search of this forum will lead you to plenty of discussion, tips and how-tos.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 30
From: Wine Country, CA
Connections at the battery are "scotchbrighted" shinny clean - no joy.
The car has lived its whole life (except for road trips) within 60 miles of San Francisco, so corrosion is (generally) not a problem. Grounds get attention whenever I'm "in there."
This problem has happened before and it usually clears itself - eventually. Which is why I suspect a sticking or "slow" relay.
I really hate driving with no working gauges (especially fuel & temp).
James
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From: Double Oak, TX
Shortly I will have the complete rear circuit foil for the 82 to 84 cars 8>)
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 117
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From: Winnipeg, MB
Seriously Roger? That is great news. Mine is good for now but I've always wanted one "just in case"! Actually I'd replace the old with the new and keep the old one as a spare!
Will you let us know when you have them?
Will you let us know when you have them?
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Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 757
Likes: 40
From: Lisboa
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 30
From: Wine Country, CA
I was fairly confident that this was not a ground problem, since my car is not exposed to corrosive conditions and I'm pretty good about cleaning grounds whenever I'm "in there."
However, after some gentle nudging from member Wayne Strutt, I figured I had nothing to lose and decided to check the grounds at the steering column support and pull the pod and check the connections.
I remember doing the grounds at the steering column support before and they looked good, but I pulled it apart and shined up the chassis contact point and all four connectors with a scotchbright pad anyway.
I started to pull the pod and thought maybe I should reconnect the battery and check the gauges before I went any further. Hooked up the battery and the gauges are working again! So, I guess it goes to show that you can't tell the condition of an electrical connection by looking at it... Buttoned it up without having to pull the pod.
Of course, the voltage gauge still doesn't work, but that predates the problem with the other gauges.
Any suggestions as to why the voltage gauge doesn't work? This also started out as an intermittent problem, but the voltage gauge hasn't worked at all for about a year...
James
However, after some gentle nudging from member Wayne Strutt, I figured I had nothing to lose and decided to check the grounds at the steering column support and pull the pod and check the connections.
I remember doing the grounds at the steering column support before and they looked good, but I pulled it apart and shined up the chassis contact point and all four connectors with a scotchbright pad anyway.
I started to pull the pod and thought maybe I should reconnect the battery and check the gauges before I went any further. Hooked up the battery and the gauges are working again! So, I guess it goes to show that you can't tell the condition of an electrical connection by looking at it... Buttoned it up without having to pull the pod.
Of course, the voltage gauge still doesn't work, but that predates the problem with the other gauges.
Any suggestions as to why the voltage gauge doesn't work? This also started out as an intermittent problem, but the voltage gauge hasn't worked at all for about a year...
James
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5,960
Likes: 332
From: Kaukauna Wisconsin
Well, you might pull the pod, pull the cluster, then pull the plastic off the cluster. You can get to and clean the gauge connections.
My temp gauge was doing this, and cleaning up the contacts from the plastic to the gauge itself got it working again.
Or it could be the gauge itself. When (if) you pull the cluster out of the pod, you can test it.
My temp gauge was doing this, and cleaning up the contacts from the plastic to the gauge itself got it working again.
Or it could be the gauge itself. When (if) you pull the cluster out of the pod, you can test it.
Track Day
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
From: Sainte Julie , Quebec
So I need help guys...desperately, a grown man here just about to start crying, I took out my cluster off my 928S 1983 cause I wanted to replace some bulbs, sure enough I was not able to fit new sockets to led bulbs,, screw it I gave up! I cleaned the connectors and reinstalled the speedometer , sure enough NOTHING works anymore as needles, THEY ALL USED TO WORK prior! Temp gauge and fuel JUMP to TOP!!!! speedometer, RPM, battery and oil needles ARE NOT MOVING ANYMORE, PLEASE HELP 
!!!!!!
!!!!!!