Is there any need for a 928 Carcass?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Is there any need for a 928 Carcass?
My part out is ongoing, and I am left with a black rust free 1987 S4 body. From the firewall back. I am about to take out the windshield, sawzall in hand. It ain't gonna be pretty, if nobody wants the body. And, no , I will not ship
If anyone wants it, lmk, if not, I will cut it up into small pieces, as one pick and pull place said it was worth nothing to him, if the car was stripped.
If anyone wants it, lmk, if not, I will cut it up into small pieces, as one pick and pull place said it was worth nothing to him, if the car was stripped.
#4
#5
Burning Brakes
Need video of the event.
#6
Used a sawsall on my 78, #613, after doors, rear hatch, engine/trans, both bumpers, interior, windshield and front clip were removed. Took me about an hour and a half, and two sawsall blades (one long and one short). Cut it up into manageable pieces pretty quickly, working from each end...so it would stay balanced on the jackstands.
First I cut the radiator support area off, then about fifteen inch back farther on each side of the engine bay...right in front of the a-arm mounting area...since that area is reenforced and hard cutting, next right in front of the door jambs.
Next I removed the roof panel, buy cutting each pillar. Then cut each pillar at its lowest point on the body.
Then moved to the rear, cutting the rear quarters off by cutting the rear section in half/straight down through the license plate area, then along the edge that meets the rear hatch floor/along inner quarter panel/down along rear seats and through the rocker panel (side note...make sure you have removed the rear sway bar...I forgot that until I came to a dead stop cutting along inner quarter panel area). Repeat this effort on the other side.
Now you will most likely need a cherry picker to hold the rest of the body, while you whittle away at the floor and dash area. The dash area is the most difficult area to cut, because there are so many tubes and brackets located within.
From start to finish...about one and a half hours...with one short break. Even I was somewhat surprised how easy things went. Torches are nice, but you have the potential for fire and sparks and hots are flying everywhere. Plus, you have to remember...there will still be gas in the fuel lines.
Removing the windshield went pretty smoothly...until I got in a rush and cracked it. Which was no big deal, was just seeing if it could be done...and in my opinion...it would have been okay if I hadn't have got impatient. Used a two inch wide putty knife, working it between the glass and window frame, cutting through the adhesive, always applying more pressure against the frame...not the glass. Don't push against the glass if you are attempting to remove safely.
Looking back now...wish I would have keep the rear quarter panels.
Brian.
Side note
First I cut the radiator support area off, then about fifteen inch back farther on each side of the engine bay...right in front of the a-arm mounting area...since that area is reenforced and hard cutting, next right in front of the door jambs.
Next I removed the roof panel, buy cutting each pillar. Then cut each pillar at its lowest point on the body.
Then moved to the rear, cutting the rear quarters off by cutting the rear section in half/straight down through the license plate area, then along the edge that meets the rear hatch floor/along inner quarter panel/down along rear seats and through the rocker panel (side note...make sure you have removed the rear sway bar...I forgot that until I came to a dead stop cutting along inner quarter panel area). Repeat this effort on the other side.
Now you will most likely need a cherry picker to hold the rest of the body, while you whittle away at the floor and dash area. The dash area is the most difficult area to cut, because there are so many tubes and brackets located within.
From start to finish...about one and a half hours...with one short break. Even I was somewhat surprised how easy things went. Torches are nice, but you have the potential for fire and sparks and hots are flying everywhere. Plus, you have to remember...there will still be gas in the fuel lines.
Removing the windshield went pretty smoothly...until I got in a rush and cracked it. Which was no big deal, was just seeing if it could be done...and in my opinion...it would have been okay if I hadn't have got impatient. Used a two inch wide putty knife, working it between the glass and window frame, cutting through the adhesive, always applying more pressure against the frame...not the glass. Don't push against the glass if you are attempting to remove safely.
Looking back now...wish I would have keep the rear quarter panels.
Brian.
Side note
#7
Here is my post concerning this operation from another site.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...sial-78-a.html
Looks like my memory of the event is pretty good...lol.
Brian.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...sial-78-a.html
Looks like my memory of the event is pretty good...lol.
Brian.
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#8
Rennlist Member
My part out is ongoing, and I am left with a black rust free 1987 S4 body. From the firewall back. I am about to take out the windshield, sawzall in hand. It ain't gonna be pretty, if nobody wants the body. And, no , I will not ship
If anyone wants it, lmk, if not, I will cut it up into small pieces, as one pick and pull place said it was worth nothing to him, if the car was stripped.
If anyone wants it, lmk, if not, I will cut it up into small pieces, as one pick and pull place said it was worth nothing to him, if the car was stripped.
#9
Brian.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
The front end is already off, supporting the motor. I do not want to use a cutting torch. Everything is stripped out, gas tank, lines wiring, but as was stated, the torch could cause trouble, in my garage.
So, basically, no on wants it, so, I'll take photos as I go.
Cheers
Don
So, basically, no on wants it, so, I'll take photos as I go.
Cheers
Don