Drewster67

Thanks TK, I appreciate that. Currently, my POA is to work on her after I get off work on Wednesday mornin. If I haven't extracted the bolts by the afterrnoon, c'mon over. Remember, I live two blocks shy of the moon, from everyone. (Just ask Rich) I'll supply the beer and grub. Afterwards and if your up to it, we can hit the Gentlemens Club down the road - The Desert Flame - The hottest place on Earth, Where the women don't have summer teeth. You know....some are there and some are not .........

Inside AZ joke, refering to Apache Junction.

Pictures of the broken bolts due up shortly.

Drewster67

Gents and Ladies -

You can see where I already heli Coiled one thread (Top Left) and to the right, the broken bolt in wich Ive spent quite a bit of time on. And at the bottom, one bolt in wich I literally tore to shreads trying to remove with vise grips.

The water pump bolts look pretty much the same - one broken inside and one that still has a chewed up tip .

Wish I had a bteer camera ......

Gregg K

If it helps at all, some assemblies come stock with Helicoil holes.

Jim @ EuroWerks

A heli-coil is not the last resort, the timeserts are the last resort.

Drewster67

Hers another angle. Look at the bolt directly above the crank sprocket - what a friggin bear!

Thanks again to all, I'll post a follow up by weeks end. Until then,





Technical diff w/the link for the second shot. I'll reup it later this am. (I uploaded it right before JD took the server down)

Jim, what are "Time serts" ?.

TIA

Drewster67

Today was put on Hold. Tomorrow is MY day to work ......again......on this nightmare. RedUFO will be stopping by, along with his camera. Should be interesting.

Red UFO

Well this certainly will be a challenge. May the force to with us.

heinrich

I've got experience (is this a me-too? ;-) with coolant-seized bolts in aluminium. I think in retrospect, that it is more than worth it to remove whatever the part is, so that you are 100$ sure you will do it right, have enough room to work, and so-on. However: you can, if you have good access, and a perfect 90deg approach, you CAN drill the bolt out and tap it right, with cutting oil and patience and the right tap. But of course, you MUST have enough thread to start the tap properly so that you don't cut cross-thread.

I've done this, and it works perfectly. Lots of cutting oil, very sharp and perfectly centered drill bits, and absolutely 90deg tapping. And as someone said, make sure you don't drill too deep - I tape the bit at the depth of the bolt.

I should say this though -- in my experience, if you get to where a bolt shears when you grip it with some hellish grippers, chances are there's no way the bolt will come out in one piece, even with heating. Heating has not helped me in these cases, but then to be honest I have been scared of overheating the aluminium.

And honestly the most useless crap I've ever seen, are those drillouts, at least Sears ones. They break off. I broke an entire set.

So, if you can manage to get enough thread exposed, go for it -- better than helicoiling!!

ErnestSw

Drew,
Am I missing something, or are you trying to approach this nightmare with the pulley still on the car? Wouldn't the job be a LOT easier if you removed the pulley?

Drewster67

What I used last time was a Plumbers chain. Wrapped it around the crank and it worked great.

I do have acces for the drills, so I thought best to leave it in. What I am going to do is pull the radiator for even more access.

Thanks again

Drewster67

The pictures are kind of deciving as far as how much of an open angle I have. It's pretty well exposed but then again - a field is better than a backyard.

Thanks again

Paul D

I snapped a waterpump bolt (the very same bolt I see snapped in your picture) when replacing my waterpump. I ended up drilling out the stud and inserting a helicoil. If you go this route be careful drilling. Once the stud is drilled completely the drill will run through aluminum like a hot knife through butter. It would be a good idea to remove the radiator and crank pulley to get better access. Good luck!

Drewster67

Well Red was a big Help. We were able to drill out one of the bolts. The next step is to Heli coil or start a new Tap. The remaining bolts wouldn't budge, so we started drilling them out.

Red was here for about 6 hrs, that tells you how much of "bear" these bolts are.

More pics and even a video from Red coming soon.

Red UFO

The task at hand. Tried to get this one to turn but to no avail so we saw it off for later drilling.


The tools required to do the job!



Drew having at it.



RedUFO gives it a shot.

Extremely tedious job to get done. Must be careful or you'll drill into the block. We got one out from the water pump. My drill bits were to dull to chew up these bolts. Drew get a new set of drill bits and it will eat those bolts up for a little while.

We noticed new bits eat up the bolts, older drill bits ones just spin and don't do much. But the block is like butter and they would slice that if we were to miss.

Jobs like this require sharp bits and alot of beer and hope.

Drewster67

Nice Picks Red! - Dunno about you, but my arms are kind of sore !!!

I think you were right about needing diamond tip bits, Harbor Freight here I come .................

And the saga continues ............