Gents, I have what may be a pretty basic question, but will the fittings on the brake lines in the car work with newly purchased fittings? I had an issue on an old ford where the old fitting did not fit over the newly purchased brake line. I'm just wondering with the age of the car and the metric pieces if I'm going to have an issue.
Trying to replace the flex hoses and do a caliper rebuild on all four corners. You guessed it, the fitting is stuck on the brake tubing and it won't come off. I tried the soaking and everything else that I've found on here. I'm keeping the heat for the last ditch effort to get it loose (it just bothers me to heat up a hydraulic line). If I can't get it loose, I want to cut the line and replace a section to make a good connection at the flex line. I don't have the skills to bend and replace the entire line (it goes all the way up to the MC).
This work is on an '82 5-speed. I searched the forum, but didn't find anything. Not saying it isn't there, but I'm not the best at searching.
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Jeff

 

Jeff I just did exact same job - new hoses and caliper rebuild an all - on my S4.

The brake line is all 3/16", metric 4.75mm. Almost all cars use this size so it's a common standard. The fittings are all M10 X 1.0mm thread, but I wanted to avoid flaring new ends.

All four of mine seemed stuck fast at first, but after persevering the score was both original unions on front hard lines spinning freely, one hard line ar rear LHS replaced between hose and rear distributor (couldn't get hard line to hose fitting to budge no matter what), and on other side could separate hard line and hose but couldn't free up union so just screwed new hose into union, and turned caliper onto hose before mounting it.

The fronts are much easier to work on as such easy access to union. What worked for me at front was:

Remove the clip holding brake hose to bracket (so it's free to turn when flat section pushed out of bracket, and you get more room to put 17mm wrench on hose hex fitting)

Unbolt the hose from caliper (banjo bolt) or just cut it. Clamp it so fluid not escaping.

Get a good 11mm flare to counterhold union nut so you don't twist hard line.

With 17mm wrench turn the hose (or what's left of it if cut) out of union. Both mine came out with no drama at front. Cap the union or get proper M10 brake line male blanking plugs.

Now you can work on freeing up union. Clamp behind the nut so line can't twist, and get a little movement with flare wrench. You'll feel little particles of corrosion clicking. Go back and forth, back and forth, and you'll get more movement arc and it will get easier. By all means keep shooting penetrant down from hard line end of union (that's where it jams up). Eventually it will spin round 360 deg, and you can make it move very freely. Eventually it will even move up and down hard line, so you can use a little steel wool to clean up the section of line the union moves on.

Same principles at rear, only access is trickier. You get more room dropping exhaust from the rubber hangers on each side.