Tach stops at 2100 RPM. Thoughts?
08-24-2016, 03:23 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Tach stops at 2100 RPM. Thoughts?
I'm really trying to give the love to my '86 but she is fighting me.
Pulled the pod (again) to do some work on bad bulbs and a bouncing volt gauge.
Even with a new alternator, confirmation the 14-pin connector is in good shape and repairing the resistor - the gauge still bounces. Installed a new volt gauge which still bounces, only less, so I decided to live with it.
Put everything back together, go out for a (somewhat) triumphant drive - and the tach is now acting up. It shows the correct RPM up to exactly 2100 RPM and stops dead and stays there.
When I drop below 2100 RPM it works as it should.
I never removed the tach or touched it, so not sure why this is happening now.
Any ideas where to start?
Pulled the pod (again) to do some work on bad bulbs and a bouncing volt gauge.
Even with a new alternator, confirmation the 14-pin connector is in good shape and repairing the resistor - the gauge still bounces. Installed a new volt gauge which still bounces, only less, so I decided to live with it.
Put everything back together, go out for a (somewhat) triumphant drive - and the tach is now acting up. It shows the correct RPM up to exactly 2100 RPM and stops dead and stays there.
When I drop below 2100 RPM it works as it should.
I never removed the tach or touched it, so not sure why this is happening now.
Any ideas where to start?
08-24-2016, 10:29 AM
#2
Team Owner
its possible a small sticker has fallen off and it is lodged into the workings of the gauge
08-24-2016, 03:20 PM
#3
Advanced
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Merlin's advice for the tach sounds reasonable.
Assuming you're going back in there and want to fix the voltage gauge also, I think the problem is simply a loose terminal connection on back of the gauge. You will likely need to separate the whole gauge cluster from the Pod. There are 2 black plastic pieces that hold the oil pressure/voltage gauge in place via a small nut on each. Each plastic piece has 2 male conductor pins that plug into its respective gauge to provide electrical paths between the gauge and the PCB. Remove the nuts and pull the plastic connector pieces. At this point you may be able to access the female terminals on back of the gauges (most likely you need to remove the whole cluster from the pod). Then with a fine pick tool, bend the female terminals inward to create a more snug connections around the pins.
Before I did this with mine, I checked the firmness of each terminal connection by plugging in the black plastic piece one terminal at a time (turn it 180 degrees outward; gauge must be removed from cluster). Sure enough, a couple were loose.
Many connectors on the 928 can be disassembled and the connection improved in this manner.
All the best!
Assuming you're going back in there and want to fix the voltage gauge also, I think the problem is simply a loose terminal connection on back of the gauge. You will likely need to separate the whole gauge cluster from the Pod. There are 2 black plastic pieces that hold the oil pressure/voltage gauge in place via a small nut on each. Each plastic piece has 2 male conductor pins that plug into its respective gauge to provide electrical paths between the gauge and the PCB. Remove the nuts and pull the plastic connector pieces. At this point you may be able to access the female terminals on back of the gauges (most likely you need to remove the whole cluster from the pod). Then with a fine pick tool, bend the female terminals inward to create a more snug connections around the pins.
Before I did this with mine, I checked the firmness of each terminal connection by plugging in the black plastic piece one terminal at a time (turn it 180 degrees outward; gauge must be removed from cluster). Sure enough, a couple were loose.
Many connectors on the 928 can be disassembled and the connection improved in this manner.
All the best!
