StratfordShark

Never done this before though released front bolt many times. But I have exhaust down to change CV boot, so this seemed a good WYAIT!

But where is it? All I can see ahead of the rear trans is the outside of the torque tube. If the actual torque tube is rotating within this, how do you get access to the clamp bolt?

Im sure the answer is very simple, but I'm stumped for now!

StratfordShark

Ah I've found it now! Ahead of where I took photo of tube I can see the big inspection bung.

Heat shield has to come off, but can I get away with removing the heat shield just on one side (would be good as that shield already part removed from when I changed hard brake line), or do I need to remove shields from both sides to access the clamp bolt?

Mrmerlin

if you can see the hole and have a straight line to it,
then only remove enough parts to make this happen

StratfordShark

Thanks Stan. I'm pretty sure I can just remove one shield, and rotate the bolt to line up with square access. Will be interesting to see condition of rear bolt.

Mrmerlin

you will also need an extended allen to get to the bolt,
use the best tool you can buy its an 8 mm,
need about 2 inches of length,
this gives more room to get into the bolt head .

NOTE as is usually the case the rear pinch is loose
NOTE inspect then tighten the rear bolt first, then tighten the front bolt

marine928

Stan, please keep us posted on the repair, I need to do the same thing.

Thanks

StratfordShark

That's good as I got a nice new extended 8mm Allen to remove the driveshaft bolts to replace torn cv boot (provided square access as socket didn't interfere with inner boot)

GlenL

What is compelling you to remove the pinch bolt?

StratfordShark

No symptom Glen, but I understand it's important to make sure it's torqued to spec, given many found to be loose.

Mrmerlin

if you check the flexplate and crank end play and do not touch the rear pinch bolt then you have not completed the full inspection of the drive shaft,

GlenL

I haven't heard of this being included in a flexplate or other inspection.

I ask because access to the rear bolt has been tough sometimes. It should be straight-up through the "U" bung, but noooo...

Tip: if the front and rear pinch bolts have been removed then re-install them all, loosely, before tightening anything down.

ROG100

Very important on 85+ auto cars and in-particular the later 89+ where the splines come unwound more frequently. In theory if you remove the pinch bolt it should be replaced with a new one.

StratfordShark

I've got pair of new bolts Roger!

StratfordShark

OK no drama here. I dropped the heat shield, took out the inspection bung and the bolt was in exactly the right position for access!

Needed a good pull on 1/2" breaker to loosen. Will replace it with new and put a little blue loctite on before torqueing down, then moving to front to release at that end and pry the tube back before installing new bolt at that end too.

Mrmerlin

Umm proper way to inspect the drive shaft.


1. remove front bell housing, remove front pinch bolt .
see if the clamp moves rearwards.

2 put dial indicator on flywheel,
then gently pry the plate front to back and see the result. write it down.
max is 0.40MM,
in inches from . 006 to .016in. usual is .008 to .010

3 remove rear pinch bolt and inspect the bolt for shank damage .

NOTE how tight or loose the bolt is while removing.
NOTE inspect the driveshaft cutout to verify that its centered in input shaft, adjust as necessary.
NOTE use blue loctite on threads torque to 66 ft/lbs Tighten rear bolt.

4 move the flywheel to the rear of the car then install the front bolt.