NewShark: Thank you! I like to take photos for posterity, and to let me get it back together again. Good Luck with your project!


Scott, as soon as I get the Red Witch back on the road, we will totally go for a ride...


Itoolio: Thanks! I do this partially because the guys here on Rennlist like photos. Plus, in a twisted sort of way, I hope it is an inspiration to other dirt balls like myself. Rennlist is full of awesome technicians who have worked miracles:
Stan, Sean, Greg, Rob, Mark, dr bob, Bill Ball, etc...

I am not one of them. I am a blue collar dirt ball who can just barely afford to properly care and feed a 928. I do my own work, and want to show that a 928 can be maintained at home.
I want to show other prospective 928 owner's that they can do it.
Don't get me wrong, I am not advocating half-assing or taking short cuts. That has no place on a 928 and leads to frustration and shame.



Thanks!

Seth K. Pyle

Just like most other 32V 928's out there, the exhaust sampling tube was rusted through. I removed it and cut the fitting off the tube. Conventional Rennlist wisdom says to plug the port with a ball bearing.
Of course I could not find a stinkin' ball bearing in my shop...:grr:
However, I did find a suitable plug. In a box of thick 3/8" fender washers, I found a punched out center section. It was around 10mm OD, and just the right size to plug the port. Works good, last long time.



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...cecb8d10b4.jpg



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Last night, I was able to install the new metal pawl in the gas cap. I acquired two semi-finished pawls from Alan. I mistakenly thought the gas cap took two pawls.

So, if anyone wants a metal pawl, PM me.

Anyway, separating the cap was easy. Why? Because someone already broke it.
After disassembling everything, I found the nylon pawl looked pretty new. I am going to say someone broke the cap while replacing the pawl.

I spent around 30 minutes with hand files and a 1/2" mill dressing the piece to correctly fit the cap. I had to narrow the body slightly, and round out the slot on top. I matched the slot to the cam on the bottom of the lock cylinder. For reference, I used the 1/2" mill in a pneumatic angle grinder. I had the pawl chucked up in a vise, and held the grinder uber steady while I worked the piece.
I also had to drill the spring hole a little deeper. The spring stuck out further on the metal pawl than the nylon one.
None of these are a dig against jpitman, the designer and fabricator of these metal pawls. I was clearly told they needed finishing work. I am VERY pleased with the metal pawl and don't mind a little hand dressing of the piece.

After cleaning everything in the heated parts washer, I reassembled everything with a healthy coat of EP0 grease. I am not sure what I will do about the broken cap. I don't know of any tape that will not end up a nasty mess in a short time. I may see if 928 Intl. has any used caps available.
We shall see...



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In a fit of inspiration, I found a place to route the vacuum line and transmission temperature gauge wire into the passenger cabin. The hole for the O2 sensor cable grommet. I carefully drilled two holes in the grommet and reamed them out with a tiny rat tail file. I have covered the vacuum line and transmission temperature gauge wire in the spiral wrap that I used on the ABS harnesses.
I have routed the wire along the transmission oil cooling lines back to where they turn to the torque tube. This is near the hole in the floor pan for the O2 sensor.
I have routed the vacuum line from an F-fitting at the power brake booster check valve along the firewall, and down to meet the transmission gauge wire at the transmission cooling lines. Both will be fully terminated when I install the exhaust and O2 sensor.



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More to report, will do so later...

Seth K. Pyle

More to report, will do so later...

Seth K. Pyle[/QUOTE]

Awesome documentation as usual Seth. I think you have set the new standard for informational how to threads. Great job. I hope to see the Red Witch back on the road soon. :-)

Thank you Chris! I appreciate it. I document as such for posterity, to help me put the damned thing back together, and in a perverse way, proof.

These photos and posts are proof that I am working on my 928 and not just talking out my a$$. If that makes any sense...

I am tantalizingly close to having the Red Witch back on the road. I am hoping to get alot done this long weekend.

Good luck refitting your heads this weekend!


Seth K. Pyle

Over my two years of research and now 7 months of 928 ownership, I have studied a considerable number of posts on the electrical system.

I have been paying attention.

I have replaced the ground strap with an upgraded Waytek piece. I have installed a new battery and ensured it is vented properly. I have just finished installing an upgraded 1 gauge battery cable. So far so good.
I have made progress cleaning grounds. I have cleaned and inspected the wires at the jump post and the 14 pin connector.

As a teaser, here is a photo of what will go in when I do the TB tension/ignition refresh/coolant hose replacement/PS hydraulic system refresh/AC rebuild bonanza in the near future:



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fa32def68b.jpg


Upgraded 4 gauge cable to go from the starter to the alternator, then from the alternator to the jump post. Cleaned and inspected stock 115A alternator with remote voltage regulator.

I would like to just piggy back the new 4 gauge wire with the existing charge/power wires from the starter/alternator/jump post. I am not sure if that will work. I will figure it out when I get the front of the engine apart.

So far, corrosion has not been a big problem in the Red Witch's wiring harness. However, if I find the engine harness is garbage, I will cough up and order a replacement from Sean Ratts. I am impressed with his harnesses.

I have seen the experiences of others, and I want to do it right.


Seth K. Pyle

You're welcome, and thank you for the well wishes. :-)

I thought his car was well sorted out by the PO.

For the most part, yes. However, PO warned me this car had been a garage queen and would need a little sorting.

However, there is a never ending list of nit-picky things.
-battery cable corrosion
-brake caliper corrosion
-tune up and fluid change not done in years
-some deferred maintenance
-plus my own tinkering


Intake refresh was done 18 years ago. Rubber things are starting to harden.

Brakes were done 18 years ago. Calipers have corroded, brake hoses were original, and everything needed to be cleaned.

Torn boots in steering and suspension.


I take it all in stride as part of owning an old car. Besides, from what I am seeing, my purchase price of $8500 was relatively cheap, and my costs of $14,500 since then are pretty much par for the course.

I plan on driving this every day, so I want it to be right.


Seth K. Pyle

., yeah, and I thought you wanted to drive it. :corn:

Absolutely killing me...

You know I jest, you are doing a great service with your documentation for all of us that will eventually need to swim the same waters.

I know Farris.

It is killing me not being able to drive my 928. However, I want have it fixed right, at least by my standards. Hence, all this work.

I am almost there...


Seth K. Pyle

You can do both. Only fix one thing at a time and don't let the work last longer than a weekend. Then drive it and a few weeks later fix something else.

Very true. This is what has tripped me up.
Since I am in there...(insert next job to do).

I am going to try to do the ignition refresh piecemeal.


Thanks!

Seth K. Pyle

Friday morning, I removed the CE panel and wrapped it up.
At work this weekend, I did a clean and inspect, with new fuses and a few new relays.


Getting the CE panel out was a bit of a pain, mainly because I haven't done it before.
I misinterpreted the instructions from Alan, and tried to remove the actual sockets for the plugs. I quickly understood what I was doing wrong when I saw a photo of a removed CE panel. Luckily, I didn't damage anything doing that.

However, I did manage to break the top locking tab on a brown connector. :banghead: I tried to be careful, but damn if those tabs aren't brittle...
I am just going to have to hope that the lower locking bar is enough to keep it seated. I think so, because the plug was tight on the terminal spades.

Once I got all the plugs out, I figured out where the hot and ground leads were. However, I could not figure out how to disengage the bottom of the CE panel. I even went so far as to unbolt the left side lower support. That wasn't it. I then figured out that I had to lift up, then tilt out on the CE panel to disengage the plastic pins from the rubber grommets. That made sense after the fact.

On the workbench at work, I methodically removed all the fuses and relays, noting any issues along the way. I had read that a small set of slip jaw pliers are good for removing relays. I have a cute set of 5" Knipex that I thought would work just fine. After crushing the cans on a couple of '53' relays, I realized I needed a little more finesse. I ended up using a combination of gentle plier pulling and careful prying with a small flat head screw driver.

All the old fuses went into a zip loc baggie. As each relay came out, it went into a numbered baggie. As each '53' relay came out, it was marked with its socket number.

None of the fuse blades or relay terminals had any corrosion or heat damage.

I only found one issue. I found a 30A fuse that the plastic was a little deformed at one of the legs. I searched all the fuse holders rated at 30A. The plastic around the load side terminal of fuse #17 looked like it had started to get a little warm. Unfortunately, both the line and load side fuse terminals showed a little corrosion. I am going to assume from heat.

I also noticed the plastic relay socket for X relay, HVAC blower, looked it like it had started to get a little warm. I did not see any corrosion on the terminals.

I liberally sprayed all sides of the CE panel with contact cleaner, then scrubbed each and every fuse and relay terminal with a toothbrush and contact cleaner. I followed up by using most of a can of DeOxit D5 on all the fuse and relay terminals. I gave fuse #17 a hit of DeOxit D100, for good measure.

To test fuse #17, I put a new 30A fuse in the holder. I read resistance between the (+) bus at the top of the CE panel to the female spade connector on the back side of the load side of fuse #17. Reading was 0.1 ohms. I am going to call that good.

I set up a simple test rig with a 12V forklift battery, jumpers, and my Fluke to test the '53' and EZF relays. All of them tested fine. Meaning, they actuated cleanly, and had 0.2 ohms or less across the contacts of 30 to 87.
I also verified the fuse tester function of the EZF relay worked.
I paid closer attention to X relay '53' for the HVAC blower. Its terminals showed no signs of overheating, and the contacts read 0.2 ohms across them when the relay was energized.


I don't think there is any damage to the CE panel and such, though I am going to further investigate the HVAC blower motor and wiring. Something was pulling more current than it should have.

I installed five new '53' relays in the following positions:
XXV LH computer
XX fuel pump
XVIII AC condenser fan
XIV Starter
IV X-bus

There was a newer Hella brand '53' relay in the XX fuel pump socket. I installed this relay in the X HVAC blower socket. All the remaining '53' sockets were filled with their original relays. The five now spare '53' relays are going in a bag as spares to keep in the car.

I fitted all new Cooper/Busman fuses, just because I could. Only hiccup was I didn't have a new 1A fuse for fuse #26, Hatch release parking circuit. I will hunt one down.

Any metal case relay was just hosed down with contact cleaner, allowed to dry, then reinstalled in its socket. I double checked the part number on each relay with the part number listed in the chart developed by Alan, then verified I put the relay back in its correct socket. I do not want to let any magic smoke out of any of the relays from being in the wrong place.

Each of the plastic case relay was carefully popped open, inspected, then photographed. The actual contacts were checked for burning, then the whole shebang was cleaned with contact cleaner. I was out of DeOxit D5 at that point, so contact cleaner would have to suffice. Luckily, none of the relays had any corrosion or heat damage.

I will say this, I was quite surprised at the complexity of most of those relays. No wonder they are so expensive...

The CE panel is currently reassembled and wrapped in bubble wrap. When I get back on the Red Witch (and the DeOxit I ordered arrives) I have to clean all the plugs and grounds. Then, reinstall it.




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Not as intimidating as I expected, but harder to remove.



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Some disassembly required.



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This is intimidating.



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Note deformed plastic. 30A fuse #17 for HVAC blower.



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Plastic showing it started to get a little warm on the load side of fuse #17. There is a little corrosion on both the line and load side terminals.



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X relay socket for HVAC blower is a tad darker than the rest of them. However, the terminals don't have any corrosion.



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'53' relay test rig.



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928.618.109.01, XV, Kick-down



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928.615.101.00, VII, Delay wiper



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928.318.113.01, IX, Intensive wash



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fc12dfe9ce.jpg

928.618.111.00, IXX, Headlamp wash



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...77899edf88.jpg

928.618.225.01, XXI, Interior light delay



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928.615.126.00, VI, Power windows



https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1f22b4468f.jpg

928.615.203.00, XVI, EZF



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...bfc876ec00.jpg

Cleaned and ready to go.




Seth K. Pyle