Maddaverx7. I have no paperwork or history on this car at all. It does have twin pipes and engine oil cooler. I don't know if that is standard on a euro or not. Lots of mysteries yet to come. This thing is so unlike my 83 us,,

 

Yes. M28-11 is the engine type number, the rest of the string of numbers tell the production # of that engine. There was a change in '84 & some of them are interference engines. So it is a euro engine: 300+ HP, 10:1 compression, Bigger valves, Higher lift/ longer duration cams, Larger intake tube diameter, CIS injection, a non-interference engine,and (If you're lucky) NO Environmental Perfection crap on it. Your VIN# should be "WP0ZZZ etc. and the last 4 digits is the production#. Mine is 1138. Is your's "older or younger' than mine? Your headlights are the U.S conversion. It should have H4s. But they tend to be a little 'pricey', so doing that would be low on my 'TO-DO' list. The paint on mine is really shot. So what I think I'm going to do is wrap the car. I've found a 3-M 1080 wrap in 'Gloss Blue Raspberry' that's almost a match for the current 'Cobalt Blue'. Mine looks nice from the inside, your's looks great from the outside..

 

thanks for all the info. The last 4 digits are 0863 so I think it's older than yours. Also pictures make the paint look better than it really is. poor re spray.. Could it be that someone stole the H4's as every thing else looks to be pure euro. the pod is all in German and no US side lights have been added.

 

Check your lower ball joint carriers. If they are aluminium, change them. They can be subject to stress failure. I don't recall the prod.# where they changed to steel carriers, but it was lower than 1138. Mine are steel. Also the lights in the nose are fog and driving lights not parking and fog lights- the outer lights have both parking and fog bulbs-the inner lights are linked to the main headlights.

 

Hello. 'Just went out and checked the VIN on mine ; #1407. Practically a child by comparison. I am in the process of reinstalling interior pieces. 54k miles, 5 speed, H4s, mechanical refurbish by Merlin, seems to have been spec'd with minimal extras, no cruise control, manual passenger seat, no rear air. How can I check for Limited Slip Differential? OBTW, Oak Green metallic.

 

If you have the vin decoded it will show up as option 220. Otherwise get the car in the air and spin the wheels; if they spin in the same direction it has an lsd, if not it is an open diff.

 

Thanks for the info strikemaster. I replaced the lower ball joints on my 83 US and they were really bad. Will do the same in the euro but boy have gotten pricey. Good to know about driving lights as none of them work at this time. Need a sanity check on this one! The PO musta thought he was working on a farm tractor.

 

Do the ball joints as soon as you can. It's a safety issue.

 

rlich8. Will do ball joints as one of my first upgrades. I've only had the for a week or so it'll be awhile and I'm well aware of the issue. Got any good steel spares laying ????