leiplouis79

I've read many threads on here about this condition. Mine is doing the same thing. Would start after some tries and now nothing. I replaced the ignition switch and tumbler - still acts/ feels as if the cam in between the 2 does not engage? Are there any write ups on how to repair this part and after doing the ignition switch --- it is no fun tearing the pod and cluster out - I've done it twice and started to damage the small fingers on the PC board where you plug it to the cluster. I'm going over all the electricals as you have all described. Hoping that it does the trick and that its not that cam --- you'd just have to feel it and you'd know what I mean.

Thanks for any help.

dr bob

To be clear, it sounds like you are chasing a problem of the starter motor not cranking the engine when key is in "start" position. This is different from a problem where the starter cranks the engine but the engine does not start. Can you clarify which problem you are experiencing? From there we can offer some diagnosis.

James Bailey

The cam and engaging rod can get worn....so even full turn of the tumbler does not get full movement of the electrical portion of the ignition switch.. Unfortunately to replace you must remove the tumbler which means removing the pod...again If you still have the old electrical switch you can raise the steering wheel all the way up reach up through the gap below the pod and undo the plug from the switch.....it will pull down far enough that you can plug in the old switch and use a screw driver to turn it....that will confirm that everything else but the cam/engaging rod is working...

Barry Chan

So if you can start the car with the turn of the screwdriver on the switch.....means the cam/rod is worn?

leiplouis79

Yes - it is as you described. Here is what I have done so far- Rear ignition switch & front tumbler, new battery , new high output alternator, cleaned all of the connections- grounds as well, new starter relay and replaced the fuel pump relay as well for good measure, replaced fuses. Additional info --I can jump start the car via the Pos+ post to #14 in the engine bay ( fires right up no issues). The reason for the new battery , I was only seeing 12.2 volts after a full charge (PO cheap warehouse battery) of course the old Alt would only charge after 3K rpms - now have a a good 12.7 volts with the new battery. Was working on connecting everything, but rain arrived and it will be raining all of today( my luck). Took the week off to try and get her back on the road. FYI- I repaired the gauge cluster fingers with copper adhesive conductive tape ( used primarily for doing stain glass work) - worked like a charm. I read that on some post, either on here or 928 club -can,t remember. I also read about the screw driver guy - was thinking about it - but everytime I look at the pod again -I get a headache

leiplouis79

Added note- I also removed the stereo as it was a jumbled mess of wires with many open ends- some people should just not attempt. Was planning on removing it anyway and placing a gauge cluster in that section of the console . l don't need music--- when I have the sweet sound of the Borla.