martinss

I echo the other posts - adjusting stretched cables correctly transformed my S4s. I have immediate throttle response, albeit with an initial slow progression, and much firmer shifts (cable to auto tightened).

Starting in 1st instead of the default 2nd makes a huge difference too.

NoVector

Oh, and there's this adjuster too:
(https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...wn-switch.html)

Adk46

I have not gotten 'round to working on the car - the workspace is occupied with another black car with distinctive headlights. But thank you for all the suggestions.

The tip about moving the seat forward is actually good. I tend to sit too Italian-style.

I'm certainly against the non-linear behavior of some cars that add perceived power by making the car jump with a little pedal movement. That's cheating.

I suspect that many of you would seriously startle yourself and your passenger if you got into a Cayman S PDK or similar. After getting used to its throttle mapping, it would happen again if you hit the Sport button. You would enjoy it.

The normal shifting (other than its harshness, which I must soon fix) is good - starts off in first. I checked the TPS during my refresh - it is working electrically, idle is OK, but I don't know for sure if it is clicking when it should - off-idle and WOT. I don't know if the kick down switch is working at the pedal. The barrel adjustor at the firewall for the pedal cable is already screwed out a long way, but cable is not quite taut. Vacuum is good for the line to the modulator. The transmission needs a full service, and may be low on fluid; modulator might be bad. The truth is that the transmission gives me the *******, like an employee you suspect is laughing at you behind your back. I've digressed.

Am I the only one who can't read "throttle whatzit" without wondering if the writer is referring to something near the pedal? I'm guilty myself - the subject of this thread is more properly about the pedal gain.

Andre The Giant

Good luck with your choices and settings. I will be tackling them myself again this year. I will re-check the cable tightness at the quadrant and I might re-adjust the kickdown swith at the pedal also, since I really have to push the pedal in the floor to get major kickdown on my MY85 . Don't get me wrong it does kickdown !

dr bob

There's some delicate balance around getting full throttle opening and hitting the kick-down switch simultaneously. I'd probably like some kickdown help before the throttle plate is WFO, but that's likely the result of my lazy setting of the TV cable for early upshifts and late downshifts on pedal position.

The S4 throttle cable itself has a spring at the quadrant on the intake, presumably allowing for full throttle opening prior to hitting the kickdown switch. This opposite of what I would like for the way I drive the car (white-haired guy generally in the slow lane).

For the rest-- What to do:

Adjust the throttle cable so that the throttle is in fact wide open when the pedal is just touching the kickdown switch. With that, you'll be just getting into the spring at the throttle relay/bell-crank/quadrant as you go for the kickdown switch. Those who report that they need to give an extra push to get the throttle pedal all the way down are likely feeling the effects of compressing that spring.

After all that, no good deed goes unpunished. The factory cables do wear, and they do stretch, and they do wear through the sheathing and they do break. You can find the weak spots in your throttle controls at the most inopportune times. I can recommend that you --remove-- and inspect the cables on a periodic basis, and replace worn cables. This specifically includes the pedal-to-relay arm, and relay arm to throttle body cables. The cable housings are plastic-lined so they will be smoother, but the plastic lining gets tired and hard, wears more, and gets sticky on the cable itself. Lubrication reduces wear, obviously, but will do nothing for an already-worn lining or cable. You'll be amazed at how much nicer and smoother the system works with new cables.

The position of the bottom of the pedal is adjustable IIRC, more to customize the angle to the driver's preference than anything else. The hinge at the bottom of the pedal is a known wear point, allowing the pedal to move forward and sideways toward the center tunnel as it wears. The pedal is removable for inspection/service/replacement. Again, the progressive effect of wear is subtle, while getting things back to original will make a very noticeable improvement on pedal feel and function. Dirt and crud accumulate in the "well" where the bottom of the pedal sits under pad, carpet and mat. Get that all cleaned out, service the pedal hinge and lubricate it, as a minimum service.