Window Roller Installation
#16
I carefully ground the head off the rivit and punched it out. Once it was out I proceded to gring off .25mm more to recess the shaft of the rivet. I drilled and tapped a bolt hole in the rivet. Used a allen screw to reattach the rivet, now it can be easly replaced with out grinding and hammering.
#18
I used the factory roller or I should say the replacement roller you can order from the big three. As far as the manual window goes I used the gear out of the motor and is still sounds like a lift chain on a roller coaster? I initally did not want any play between the gears but I think this may be the cause of the noise so I'm going to try to alter the spacing between the gears to see if this helps.
#19
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
OK this was a relatively simple job. One of my cars had the plastic roller broken off/missing and the winder aluminium arm bent to crap, so someone had hose clamped the window in the closed position.
First, after removing the assembly from the door and straightening the arm, I went to the autoparts store after reading some of the excellent writeups from Bill Ball and other cool people. I bought (from Schucks) a Motormite Window Roller item 77402. It is square. And it has a lip on both surfaces, all the way around. I dremelled the lip off on the leading and training edges on one face (the one facing the glass), which allowed the "roller" to slip into the channel attached to the glass. It comes with a knuckled stud with a thread and a nut. I loctited and bolted this end into the aluminium arm after drilling the factory stud out. Then I reinstalled the scissor/arm/motor assembly back into the door. EASY!
First, after removing the assembly from the door and straightening the arm, I went to the autoparts store after reading some of the excellent writeups from Bill Ball and other cool people. I bought (from Schucks) a Motormite Window Roller item 77402. It is square. And it has a lip on both surfaces, all the way around. I dremelled the lip off on the leading and training edges on one face (the one facing the glass), which allowed the "roller" to slip into the channel attached to the glass. It comes with a knuckled stud with a thread and a nut. I loctited and bolted this end into the aluminium arm after drilling the factory stud out. Then I reinstalled the scissor/arm/motor assembly back into the door. EASY!
#23
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Well Neil I could have ordered the part and waited a week and paid 10 bucks for shopping. And then I would still have had to fo the work. I didn't want to see my red beast sitting there - window open and door in pieces. So I took action ..... assumed control of the situation .... and made a command decision .. and an hour later, I'm (like my friend Shane says) ........ (tell him Shane) ......