Intake refresh labor?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Intake refresh labor?
Hey guys.
My intake and valve covers were allready powder coated when i got the car. I think a full intake refresh had been done, but I have a air leak at the flappy and I think the throttle body butterfly shaft(not sure the correct terminology). Im only able to put out 2.6PSI boost. I have done the air manifold on the MAF, and not able to keep pressure on it at all. I was able to get 4.5PSI with my small compressor running full out. Feeling around I think I have the right spots its leaking.
How much time should I put aside to pull the intake to RR those parts?
My skill level is average. Im not fast by any means, but when i get my teeth into something I wont sleep until its done!
My intake and valve covers were allready powder coated when i got the car. I think a full intake refresh had been done, but I have a air leak at the flappy and I think the throttle body butterfly shaft(not sure the correct terminology). Im only able to put out 2.6PSI boost. I have done the air manifold on the MAF, and not able to keep pressure on it at all. I was able to get 4.5PSI with my small compressor running full out. Feeling around I think I have the right spots its leaking.
How much time should I put aside to pull the intake to RR those parts?
My skill level is average. Im not fast by any means, but when i get my teeth into something I wont sleep until its done!
#3
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
IF YOU HAVE ALL THE PIECES AND FITTINGS AND CLIPS AND HOSES... You can easily do the job in a weekend.
But... Some things take time, like injector refresh, intake refinish, etc.
The "air leak at the flappy" on the vacuum actuator side? Or is it the shaft and the bearings/seals?
The throttle body comes out for the bearings if you need to do that as a stand-alone.
Your ability to build manifold pressure with your little compressor depends on having no cylinder near TDC on compression stroke, where both valves would be open at the same time. 45º before TDC on #1, same place where the 32V timing belt is installed, might be good place to start.
Did you do compression and leakdown testing on all cylinders before you started? Burned valves and piston/ring damage would show up there, alerting you to where the intake pressure is going.
But... Some things take time, like injector refresh, intake refinish, etc.
The "air leak at the flappy" on the vacuum actuator side? Or is it the shaft and the bearings/seals?
The throttle body comes out for the bearings if you need to do that as a stand-alone.
Your ability to build manifold pressure with your little compressor depends on having no cylinder near TDC on compression stroke, where both valves would be open at the same time. 45º before TDC on #1, same place where the 32V timing belt is installed, might be good place to start.
Did you do compression and leakdown testing on all cylinders before you started? Burned valves and piston/ring damage would show up there, alerting you to where the intake pressure is going.
#4
Rennlist Member
Recommend checking out Dwayne's intake refresh page; not only to see what you're in for but at the beginning he shows how he pressurized the intake. If it is the bearing shaft seals, he does an excellent job of explaining how to cut out the old with a dremil bit and pressing in new bearings. http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.o...%20Refresh.htm
I'm super slow and it would probably be an afternoon taking it apart, futzing around and replacing the bearings and stuff during week nights, and a Saturday afternoon putting it all back together. Could be done in a weekend, but I never have that luck as I always have to order parts. The week in between is when I'd be waiting for parts to arrive for all the things I found while in there.
I'm super slow and it would probably be an afternoon taking it apart, futzing around and replacing the bearings and stuff during week nights, and a Saturday afternoon putting it all back together. Could be done in a weekend, but I never have that luck as I always have to order parts. The week in between is when I'd be waiting for parts to arrive for all the things I found while in there.
#5
Rennlist Member
Hey guys.
My intake and valve covers were allready powder coated when i got the car. I think a full intake refresh had been done, but I have a air leak at the flappy and I think the throttle body butterfly shaft(not sure the correct terminology). Im only able to put out 2.6PSI boost. I have done the air manifold on the MAF, and not able to keep pressure on it at all. I was able to get 4.5PSI with my small compressor running full out. Feeling around I think I have the right spots its leaking.
How much time should I put aside to pull the intake to RR those parts?
My skill level is average. Im not fast by any means, but when i get my teeth into something I wont sleep until its done!
My intake and valve covers were allready powder coated when i got the car. I think a full intake refresh had been done, but I have a air leak at the flappy and I think the throttle body butterfly shaft(not sure the correct terminology). Im only able to put out 2.6PSI boost. I have done the air manifold on the MAF, and not able to keep pressure on it at all. I was able to get 4.5PSI with my small compressor running full out. Feeling around I think I have the right spots its leaking.
How much time should I put aside to pull the intake to RR those parts?
My skill level is average. Im not fast by any means, but when i get my teeth into something I wont sleep until its done!
If you have everything ready to go on, two days.
If you have to send something out for powder coating...longer.
#6
Rennlist Member
Recommend checking out Dwayne's intake refresh page; not only to see what you're in for but at the beginning he shows how he pressurized the intake. If it is the bearing shaft seals, he does an excellent job of explaining how to cut out the old with a dremil bit and pressing in new bearings. http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.o...%20Refresh.htm
.
.
Mine came out in about two pulls with the HF bearing puller tool.