Early car questions, best performer?
03-21-2016, 07:02 PM
#18
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No third brake light so it looks like a early car.
Lightest weight 32V. 302 ft/lb (409 nm) stock. Arguably best power:weight ratio of all 928s when chipped.
S-brakes (S4 brakes are heavier), one-side exhaust, available w/o spoilers, alarm (std '86), and ABS (std '86).
Lightest weight 32V. 302 ft/lb (409 nm) stock. Arguably best power:weight ratio of all 928s when chipped.
S-brakes (S4 brakes are heavier), one-side exhaust, available w/o spoilers, alarm (std '86), and ABS (std '86).
03-22-2016, 02:26 AM
#20
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Thanks!
I appreciate all the great info!
OK, here's my take on the early cars, as that's been my focus on what I look for...
1) Early serial numbers (by this I mean the first 50-100 production cars, not built on the production line, mostly hand built with running changes) – they were all “Euro” cars as the US production started only after 6-700 Euro cars were built.
2) Pascha interior, especially the cork/black/tan as in this example. Highly sought after and literally screams 1970’s. Available in 78-79 US cars (I've never seen a US Pascha car past 1979), Euro until '85-86 (near as I can tell based on cars for sale over past few years. This may vary as Porsche would put anything in any car for a price).
3) Wild colors – Minerva blue, Light green metallic (as in Kermit), Talbot Yellow, Continental Orange, Apple Green, Fern Green, Olive Green. Just as in the 911 world, the colors will attract. Some of the '70's and '80's Browns and Tans are period cool as well but not as 'eye popping'.
4) 5 speed Manual (Although the Automatic cars are finding their way up as well, and may be the better drive..also parts availability is MUCH greater). Manual cars were the majority in the early years, in the minority as the years went along..
Later('80-'84) US cars got the L-Jet Fuel Injection and revised “for better mileage” gearing, and don’t have near the ‘punch’ of the earlier cars. (Euro cars still got the CIS system and performance gearing until I believe ’86). Once the 32 valve cars and the S4 cars came along, power was up, (way up), but the are much heavier on their feet. Drive a well sorted 5 speed ’78 or ’79 and you will know why the magazines of the day claimed the 928 to be the best Porsche (and the best car, period!) ever built.
If you want Pascha AND Extra power, look for an '80-'86 Euro S, as I think they are the only ones that will have that combo.
Some feel that the future 'high dollar' cars will be the early cars and also the high power cars as in the 911 world. In the OB world, early VIN, 5 speeds, cool & rare colors, high power ("S" versions and '85-86 US cars) pascha or unusual interiors, and of course "special" factory versions (only two - Weissach for US and Jubilee for ROW) will all bring a premium, especially with a COA showing these to be original to a particular car. IF you are going to do a high dollar resto or fix/maintain a car as a "keeper", I would do it on a car that has some or all of these features.
1) Early serial numbers (by this I mean the first 50-100 production cars, not built on the production line, mostly hand built with running changes) – they were all “Euro” cars as the US production started only after 6-700 Euro cars were built.
2) Pascha interior, especially the cork/black/tan as in this example. Highly sought after and literally screams 1970’s. Available in 78-79 US cars (I've never seen a US Pascha car past 1979), Euro until '85-86 (near as I can tell based on cars for sale over past few years. This may vary as Porsche would put anything in any car for a price).
3) Wild colors – Minerva blue, Light green metallic (as in Kermit), Talbot Yellow, Continental Orange, Apple Green, Fern Green, Olive Green. Just as in the 911 world, the colors will attract. Some of the '70's and '80's Browns and Tans are period cool as well but not as 'eye popping'.
4) 5 speed Manual (Although the Automatic cars are finding their way up as well, and may be the better drive..also parts availability is MUCH greater). Manual cars were the majority in the early years, in the minority as the years went along..
Later('80-'84) US cars got the L-Jet Fuel Injection and revised “for better mileage” gearing, and don’t have near the ‘punch’ of the earlier cars. (Euro cars still got the CIS system and performance gearing until I believe ’86). Once the 32 valve cars and the S4 cars came along, power was up, (way up), but the are much heavier on their feet. Drive a well sorted 5 speed ’78 or ’79 and you will know why the magazines of the day claimed the 928 to be the best Porsche (and the best car, period!) ever built.
If you want Pascha AND Extra power, look for an '80-'86 Euro S, as I think they are the only ones that will have that combo.
Some feel that the future 'high dollar' cars will be the early cars and also the high power cars as in the 911 world. In the OB world, early VIN, 5 speeds, cool & rare colors, high power ("S" versions and '85-86 US cars) pascha or unusual interiors, and of course "special" factory versions (only two - Weissach for US and Jubilee for ROW) will all bring a premium, especially with a COA showing these to be original to a particular car. IF you are going to do a high dollar resto or fix/maintain a car as a "keeper", I would do it on a car that has some or all of these features.
03-22-2016, 12:25 PM
#21
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Remember that you can transplant Pascha seats and doorpanel inserts into a later car for the period look. Only certain Pascha colors are still available for repairs/re-upholstery, something to consider if looking at an originally-Pascha car with less-than-stellar interior.
Good luck with your search!
Good luck with your search!
03-22-2016, 12:49 PM
#22
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03-22-2016, 01:18 PM
#23
Administrator - "Tyson"
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03-22-2016, 01:19 PM
#24
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Lightest weight 32V. 302 ft/lb (409 nm) stock. Arguably best power:weight ratio of all 928s when chipped.
S-brakes (S4 brakes are heavier), one-side exhaust, available w/o spoilers, alarm (std '86), and ABS (std '86). lightest ".
And yes the ABS, bigger brakes are heaver and work better especially if tracking the car (and bad weather if you are going to drive in it) however under normal driving conditions, makes no difference at all.
I have both and only notice the need for ABS and the larger brakes on DE days (on the track) ABS saves me from flat spotting my tires and not having to modulate the brakes on my own
Also notice the S4 suspension has a bit of a heaver feel to it, but that could just be me.
03-22-2016, 01:26 PM
#25
Nordschleife Master
As the cars move away from The Seventies the fewer colors were offered and the interiors got boring. Sure, paint it and get a custom interior...for $10,000.
03-22-2016, 01:35 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
Painting a car for a decent job - (let's say as good as Porsche did it), is 8k (++) all day long, add a grand or two for color change.
$10k for a color change and an Pascha interior would be a steal. Better to buy a car that came the way you want it and restore. Someday the people with the big $$'s WILL care what's on the COA.....
03-22-2016, 03:52 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
So you'd advocate downgrading S4+ brakes to save a few pounds? If the S brakes stop you an inch past the guy in front, they're not good enough. My point is, with brakes, better is always better. The minor weight difference would not deter me from considering the superior braking performance an advantage, nor would it anyone else, judging by the number of people performing that downgrade.
03-22-2016, 04:06 PM
#28
Nordschleife Master
The limiting factor in braking is often tires. With DOT track tires, "S" brakes and track pads, I still need to modulate pedal pressure to avoid locking up the brakes. There'd be no stopping advantage with bigger rotors, larger pads or multiple pistons as the tires would still not stop any harder.
03-22-2016, 04:20 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
So why did Porsche upgrade them?
Now you've got my curious. Anyone have the published braking performance data from different years? I did a quick Google check and couldn't find it.
Now you've got my curious. Anyone have the published braking performance data from different years? I did a quick Google check and couldn't find it.
The limiting factor in braking is often tires. With DOT track tires, "S" brakes and track pads, I still need to modulate pedal pressure to avoid locking up the brakes. There'd be no stopping advantage with bigger rotors, larger pads or multiple pistons as the tires would still not stop any harder.
03-22-2016, 04:44 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Because they were preparing to release a heavier car that had 40 more horsepower? Supply chains are funny things.
I don't think anyone disagrees that the S4 brakes are better, but some folks are just more concerned with power-to-weight ratio. If you're in a situation where the stopping distance between S and S4 brakes makes the difference, the damage with the S brakes is probably just pressed-in bumper shocks, 'cause I can't imagine you'd be going faster than 10 mph at impact.
I don't think anyone disagrees that the S4 brakes are better, but some folks are just more concerned with power-to-weight ratio. If you're in a situation where the stopping distance between S and S4 brakes makes the difference, the damage with the S brakes is probably just pressed-in bumper shocks, 'cause I can't imagine you'd be going faster than 10 mph at impact.