ok while im trying to get the oil check valve out of the LHS can I ask is there one on the RHS of the engine ? - I've got the covers off but the top of the oil check valve looks different (smaller) on this side , its in the bottom left corner of the head ? ( someone has been at it before as the top is mangled !) WSM and PET don't seem to show two ?


thanks


Johnny

 

the heads are the same .
so if you took one head and turned it,
it would fit on the other side of the block.

That said the oil valve is still located in the same part of the head as the other side is but opposite since you turned the head around to fit the other side of the block.

so on the driver side the valve is on the LF corner...
on the passenger side its on the RR corner.

before you get into this please post pictures of the parts your touching

 

OP you know that here is a set screw on the side of the head that hold the check valve in place, right?

Edit: the ball that goes below the spring is not shown in this pic

 

Yep sure do know all about that little screw !!
Mine has been glued over I'm trying to remove glue
Getting mini torch tomorrow to try to burn it off !!
Thanks

 

Some advice:

Do NOT try to pop it out by cranking the engine. The little plug can jam against the cam and the head casting and break the cam.

DO have a fire extinguisher handy if you use heat.

I think there is a small threaded hole in the top of the plug to allow you to screw a bolt in and use it to withdraw the plug.

When you get the Al plug removed, use a rag to plug the oil return gallery before taking the spring and ball out of the socket with a magnet. Sometimes the spring comes out with the plug. Take care not to drop it into the oil return gallery.

 

I just did this with my 1990 project today.

Once I removed the ball I noticed half of it was discolored.



Upon inspecting the ball seat I found it was covered with rust.



Should I replace the ball seat or will removing the rust suffice?

 

Hi
Was wondering the same myself how is the ball seat removed ?
Should it come out easily and how is a new one fitted ?
Thanks
Johnny

 

please read the WSM in the engine section before you touch the ball seat, it is explained in detail.


Keep in mind what you want is for the ball seat to be made immovable,
so it cant move upwards.
So if its not movable now then you should leave it alone.

NOTE If it does move upwards while the engine is running then the seat will seal off the oil flow to the head and the cams will quickly seize and the belt will snap.

The rust color you see is carbon from dirty oil, try using some carb cleaner on a Q tip to remove it.

it is unlikely that water was in the seat unless the cam cover was off,
and then the head exposed to wet weather.

NOTE it is possible for wear to be seen on the spring and the top plug from the spring moving against oil pressure.

The primary function of this part is to prevent the HOT oil from draining back into the sump when the engine is shut off.
Thus the head will still have a quantity of oil for when the engine is restarted.

 

The ball has lost half its chrome and the ball seat is definitely rusty. I took a q-tip and the rust remains.

I read the WSM before I started. Here:



So, is the seat replaceable or do I need to find a way to carefully remove the rust?

 

Kevin you could use a ink type pencil eraser to clean that seat ,
and I would replace the ball and spring and O ring.
Otherwise make sure the seat is tight in the head,
a drop of green loctite on its edge should do the trick,
and if the seat is rattly loose then you also should stake it into place.

 

Already have the o-ring replaced. Have a call out to Roger for some new *****.

I'll try the eraser. I am thinking that something more serious like scotch-brite might be necessary. Thoughts?

 

any abrasive you put into the hole will possibly fall down into the port,
then when its started it will go into the lifters.

Scotchbrite pads also shed some so small pieces of this abrasive can come off.
An Ink eraser is pretty abrasive and should fit the seat and you could put the pencil into a drill

 

At your own peril, you can do what I did.

Use a dollop of grease/vaseline on a long q-tip. Stuff it down in the gallery, past the ball seat. Insure it seals the gallery below the seat.

Use an HVLP spray gun SS or brass cleaning brush on a drill to burnish the seat. Don't go hog wild here.

Connect a vacuum to a 1/4" metal line, and suck the goo out from below the seat. Keep sucking until all the goo is removed.

That's about as clean as you can get without opening the oil pressure system and blowing out the galleries.

 

Hi still confused wsm doesn't say how seat is retained or removed ?
Not sure what you mean by staking in place ??
Thanks

 

"Staking" is where you take a pointed punch and tap the edge.
The purpose is to make a slight divot or upset in both parts.
That little interference is then enough to keep both parts aligned together.