Jørn

Now with pictures, will fix the rest of the images in my thread later. If others run into same issue with links to images, I needed to drop the html-code and simply use the embed option without html-tags and then place it in [img][/img] tags.

Jørn

Hi

Long time since I have posted here now. As the car is in storage now (winter time here) I am trying to re-key my door locks. To train on another lock than my own, I bought a used one from 928intl. To my surprise it would seem that my locks are not the correct ones if you compare it to the lock I bought from Tom. Mine is the one with the rubber protection on.





What type of locks are mine? S4? I have never thought about them being not the correct ones as they where chromed.

Follow-up question. Should I just buy another lock from Tom, will they fit my current lock-setup in the doors. I know there are som differences in the plastic rod or something?

Landseer

seems like the Workshop manual talked about retrofitting newer into early

Rob Edwards

Both those lock bodies appear to be chromed, and have the ball arm sticking out the side (to accomodate the '78 only bent operating rod #928 537 111 02), I'd say they're both '78 locks. There must have been some changes in the casting for the lock body at some point in the year (?)

Here's a lock cylinder from '78 #107, for comparison:

Mark Anderson

That "rubber protection" is the door lock seal and it comes off

kawi825

Here's a pic of my lock too, exactly same as Rob's in fact my tab is broken off and Rob bought the last one they had at 928Int. i'm still looking for one and haven't found one yet. I can't believe how many variations i've seen of these things, even the early ones seemed to change a few times in the first few years.


outer cylinder is wide open so inner cyl can stick out of it as opposed to newer ones which have a closed end



Center tab broken off inner cylinder

Jørn

Hi

Spring is approaching, time to get re-keying.

Today I have drilled out the lock pins with a 2mm drill bit. Seeing the lock-core further makes me believe these locks are not the original, but I will go with them for now anyways. If you look at the end of the barrel they are "open".





I have a question regarding re-assembly. I have seen here from a write-up to use screws. However I was just wondering if there are other options? Has anyone successfully used other options? Perhaps e.g. a nail can be used?

Jadz928

I use a roll pin.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring_pin

Jørn

Thanks so much for the great tip

This Easter the newly re-keyed locks are in and works beautifully. Was the first drive of the season here.

Here are the locks after the roll-pins are in. I bought a set of roll-pins and ended up using a 2mm x 6mm pin which meant I did not have to cut the pins either. The hole in the center of the pin I sealed off with chemical metal which I sanded down, not shown here.

Jørn

Hi

Time to start checking my fuel-system as my car has been running rough when cold for as long as I have owned it. I have understood from other posts that CIS-gauges is sort of the key to start the diagnose, can anyone recommend a set to buy?

Also is there some kit available to check/clean the fuel injectors?

crushingday

Check Jim's response to my thread. best of luck to you!

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...et-to-buy.html

Jørn

Thank you so much Just need to find a vendor, I see several caries these.

Jørn

I struggle to find a vendor of the CIS-gauges that will ship outside the US, anyone have any tips?

Wisconsin Joe

Roger Tyson at 928s R Us.

ROG100 on here.

If you look on the 928s R Us website, you likely won't find them. Shoot Roger an e-mail or PM and he will get you what you need.

Jørn

Thank you so much for the tip

I have ordered a set from Roger now and he had no problems with shipping outside US.

I will keep my thread updated when I start using it, come spring-time, as I might need some more help.