Jørn

I decided to go all out on my washer pump, inspired by the level of perfection shown by the Minerva guys

Since I had to re-use it, I felt it was a sin to put it back in its' current condition, full of rust and dirt.



First I masked it up and sanded it down to bare metal. Then applied "rust-milk" on the affected parts of the pump.



Next stage was to spray it with rust-primer.



Then a top coat of silver/gray.



Followed same process as above for top section, seen below on final stage.



The final product.



This is were I should have left "well enough alone" or what the term is
I decided to top it off with transferring the part-ID sticker/decal which I carefully had removed before I sanded. However unfortunately the glue was not transparent and even worse it reacted slightly with the paint. Luckily this will be covered up by the mounting hardware. Still a bit angry with my self, because it was a stupid thing to do.

Jørn

I am finally installing the complete washer system this weekend after overhauling and testing it outside the car.

I am a bit puzzled looking at the lines and valves as to how I shall get this in to the small holes that are there without taking it apart. Can it be done?

Also I forgot the correct orientation of the 90deg. bends were the lines connect to the hood. Looking from below the hood, shall they point to the right or the left? If I need to swap it around as opposed to what I have now I guess I will have problems with the new and more modern stiff washer-lines.

Jørn

Hi

Small update here, on the installation work. After installing the system I found an electrical fault on the intensive system which turned out to be a bad relay. Bought a new one from Porsche for 98$, and now that Circuit also works splendid.


Re-furbished washer pump fitted:



Finally got hold of the correct filler neck thanks to Tom at 928intl.
And thank you Rob for the cocking recipe


I bought new washer-nozzle and also did some cleaning while they were off.



I went for hard-lines except for as you can see the small section that connects to the washer-nozzle. I installed the rubber-line after I had installed the hard-lines and valves as one complete unit. Actually I did not need my wire (seen in read) to be able to pull it trough the hood as the lines were so stiff.


I also re-furbished my level sensor, just used fine grit sand paper to sand down the corrosion and installed a new o-ring:






I popped open the old relay and it turned out it was a copper circuit that had a break in it. I tried soldering, but ended up buying a new relay.


The pump for the intensive washer was stuck, I found a great thread here on restoring the pump. Mine was just jammed due to years of metal grinding on metal in the gears. Took out the gears cleaned them and lubed the axels.





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For the intensive washer system I re-used the best I had of the rubber-lines. The hard transparent line was actually clear despite the "white-ish" color of it. Also for the lines to the hood I re-used the original rubber lines. A word of advise is to really cleanse these, the amount of crap that came out of mine Also after installation I filled a soda bottle or so from each system by running the pumpes before connecting the lines to the hood, to clear out any old residues to avoid them entering the valves and t-pieces.

A word of advice/info. I bought a new connector piece for under the hood, that actually collided with one of the nozzels and I had to get real creative with the orientation of the connectors to get it to fit. It seems the original connectors are placed closer together.

Rocinante

Edd China would be proud of you

William A

Jorn, nice work and documentation of the washer fix. Those "little" jobs take patience, but are so satisfying when complete. You have a great car there!

Jørn

Thanks for the kind feedback

Another little project that happened lately, a minute detail but very satisfying. I have not had the key to the rear center console, but I have the original chrome lock. I had replaced that with a used black lock with key which I was thrilled to find. I saved my chrome lock however since that is a 78 thing, and it nagged me a bit that I did not have it completely original. After having great experience with Stuart at keys4classics it suddenly appeared to me that I could consult him. And what do you know, he could supply me keys, based on the lock number on the back of the lock. However since Porsche does not include a letter at the end he makes two keys one of which is guaranteed to work. In my case they actually both turned out to work

So here is a milestone, fist turn of console lock since who knows when

Mark Anderson

Did the early 78 have a different key blank? All I've ever seen have looked like these

The Deputy

Very cool, it is details like this that most overlook.

Brian.

Hilton

Excellent update, thanks!

Both my 928's are missing the console key, so I need to take apart the lock and find the number sticker?

Jørn

Stuart provides only generic key-blanks for this lock. However I chose this style as it seems to kind of resemble the shape of the one shown in the original 78 user manual. I have never seen an original 78key but I believe from pics in the owners manual (ref. image below) that they did not look like the one you have shown in these pics.


You do not need to take lock apart The number is stamped into the metal on the underside of the lock, just open your rear console and look from underneath and you will see it, that is if of course the lock is unlocked

Jørn

Hi

This year the plan is to find out why the car has so much oil underneath in some places. I will have a workshop do an engine wash and look for leaks, but before this I was wondering if there is anyway for me to tell my self where the leaks are coming from.

I already know of one leak which is the short rubber hose going from the power steering fluid tank to the pump. However not sure how far that can spread. My question is: is it possible to separate between power steering fluid oil and engine oil when it has been there for years?

The Deputy

Yes, a good steam cleaning or power washing will reveal issues...and is well worth the time and effort. Just be mindful of your electric components and rubber parts, try to use great caution around these items. And l would not consider steam or power washing the top side of the engine. Just the bottom or lower front of motor if alternator has been removed. The top and front l did by hand with cleaning solutions. Also, don't let them (whoever is doing the cleaning) get to close to things with the nozzle of the steam cleaner. Nothing looks worse than parts of the paint be blown off in the engine compartment and wheel well areas. But, yes...it is very, very difficult to find a minimal leak without cleaning the area first.

That reservior to pump hose was leaking on my 84 and you'd have sworn it was involved in the Exon Valdez crisis. Thought for sure I had several leaks going on, but for the most part (besides snugging the oil pan bolts)...power steering fluid had migrated along the belts and pulleys and coated nearly the entire front/bottom/sides of the engine...even behind the timing belt covers. I figure the PO most have been adding a gallon of P/S fluid a month for the past 26 years...lol.

Brian.

928#00076

Jorn - thanks for the tip on the rear console keys. Based on your post, I ordered a set from Keys4Classics for my #76 USA. He sent the 2 keys, not knowng whcih wold be correct, and while only one (the TC) key worked, I was able to take the other key (the TX) to the hardware store and they were able to cut it to match the TC key! So I was able to get two rear console keys out of the deal! Great tip!

Jørn

I am glad the tip helped someone, see it as a payback for you helping me get the intensive washer tank

Jørn

Thought I would share some pictures of a couple of jobs I did lately.

First one is thanks to Guy who sold me the radio blocking plate, which had been converted to a stero mounting bracket. I can report back that this seems to finally solve my issue, were the previous owner had cut a DIN-sized hole in the center-console. All I need now is to fit the un-cut centerconsole cover which I have been saving for years after pressing "buy now", in an instant, years a go on ebay

It was a fiddely install and I had to get a bit creative in mounting it to the rear side of the warninglight panel. The major issue with the bracket solution is that you have to thread the stereo from the backside, which is a real pain in the...I cannot believe I was able to get the stereobracket on and screw it in place while the stereo was mounted, sometimes it pays off with my piano fingers







Second thing is thanks to Pete (Petza914) who sold me right side center console cover. I had to cut it to fit using my old trashed one as a template. The carpet jeg was able to salvage from the old one and spray glue on the new one.





Thanks fellow rennlisters May you keep on helping me with future projects.

Hmm, what is happening to my one-drive links all of a sudden......Pictures coming as soon as I figure out what is causing my links to fail, seems rennlist has changed the code-tags perhaps.. not sure