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What to do with intake after powder coat

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Old 02-29-2016, 01:37 PM
  #16  
Manuel928S4
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Default Thanks!

I want to thank all of you for helping me with this and will follow all the suggestions that everyone gave and will be cleaning them at least 5 times since I really really don't want to damage my engine. And that powdercoater wont be doing any of my other parts ever again. Terrible guy!
Another question I have is if any of the detergents or the hot water could damage the paint? And, what paint do most use for the raised and lower letters?
Old 02-29-2016, 02:45 PM
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kmascotto
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I just used hot water and elbow grease.

The paint for the lettering was a standard black touch up paint (in my case from Canadian Tire) looks like this:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/du...l#.VtSQ9vkrKUk

One end of the touch up paint pen has a sanding head, which worked perfectly to rough up the powder coating in the lettering
Old 02-29-2016, 04:08 PM
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Manuel928S4
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Originally Posted by kmascotto
I just used hot water and elbow grease.

The paint for the lettering was a standard black touch up paint (in my case from Canadian Tire) looks like this:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/du...l#.VtSQ9vkrKUk

One end of the touch up paint pen has a sanding head, which worked perfectly to rough up the powder coating in the lettering

Perfect, Thanks!
Old 02-29-2016, 07:05 PM
  #19  
Randy V
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If you want a nice looking end product for the lettering, contact Bertrand Daoust for a set of vinyl stick-ons. Much better looking than any hand painted effort.

Old 02-29-2016, 08:07 PM
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Snark Shark
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How can Manuel get the powder coating off of the machined surfaces? Seems to me he will have to sand/file it with something harder than the coating but softer than the aluminum, or he will have permanent oil and vacuum leaks.
Old 02-29-2016, 08:27 PM
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dimmer
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I had an issue with the manifold warpping when I had it powder coated. Assembled everything and it whistled like you wouldn't believe.
To get it flat and smooth again, I place a sheet of glass on top of my cast iron table saw to create a very flat working surface. I then got 3 rolls of sandpaper of different grits. I took 2 strips and placed them on top of the glass where it would contact the manifold's mating surface (starting with the coursest grit. Then simply work the manifold back and forth. until the surface is clean and flat. Repeat with finer sandpaper to get a polished surface.
Using this process, I was able to get an extremely flat and polished surface.
It's been about 6 or 7 years and no problems.
Old 02-29-2016, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dimmer
I had an issue with the manifold warpping when I had it powder coated. Assembled everything and it whistled like you wouldn't believe.
To get it flat and smooth again, I place a sheet of glass on top of my cast iron table saw to create a very flat working surface. I then got 3 rolls of sandpaper of different grits. I took 2 strips and placed them on top of the glass where it would contact the manifold's mating surface (starting with the coursest grit. Then simply work the manifold back and forth. until the surface is clean and flat. Repeat with finer sandpaper to get a polished surface.
Using this process, I was able to get an extremely flat and polished surface.
It's been about 6 or 7 years and no problems.
Darn, that sounds like a pain. There must be some sandpaper that's just a little bit softer than alumin- I mean, magnesium.
Old 02-29-2016, 08:58 PM
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Mark Thornton
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Default Washing them

sneak them into wife's Dishwasher when she is not looking ..
Old 02-29-2016, 09:47 PM
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Bertrand Daoust
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Thanks Randy.

This is mine. Same color as Randy.






I don't use paint but computer cut vinyl.
I digitized each letter/number.

The installation is quite simple. You install the letters one by one.
First, you make sure the surface is clean and free of any grease. There is a transfer tape on top of each letters.
You simply align it and gently put it on the top of the intake's lettering. If it is well aligned, you press on the transfer tape with your finger tip and then peel off the transfer tape. Not sure if it is clear but it is quite simple to do.

I did mine few years ago and they're still like new!
The photos were taken last summer.

It is a lot easier to do the job that way than paint it.
I use to paint signs and trucks by hand when I was younger and let me tell you that painting it by hand AND GET VERY NICE RESULT is quite hard unless you are use to do this.
With computer cut vinyl, you get razor sharp edges. It is a lot easier and if you want, you can remove it whenever you want without damaging the intake finish (on a powder coated intake). Like for changing color or returning to stock.

I can make them in a variety of basic colors.
"Porsche" and "32 V" in the same color or in 2 different colors.
You choose!

I can only make sets for the S4, GT and GTS intake.

30$ + shipping.
Just PM me if you need a set.

Thanks.
Old 02-29-2016, 10:01 PM
  #25  
upstate bob
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been there with nickel plating. done so thick I couldn't use the parts. I'll never have anything powder coated again either. Paint is just as good because they are both just a polymer. one is melted, the other is dissolved in solution. usually a urethane. the drawback to powder coating is the heat used in the oven to melt it. It can damage the part. I have some old Ford wire wheels, one powder coated the other three painted. Impossible to tell the difference.
Old 03-01-2016, 06:21 AM
  #26  
UpFixenDerPorsche
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Originally Posted by ltoolio

But....why is it OK that the shop that the OP took his intakes to chose to not follow not verbal instructions, but printed instructions?
Because they're just *********. Well that's the term we use here in Oz. Another one is "******".

I'd guess that the collective IQ of all the shop employees might struggle to reach three figures ... like 100.

Equally, the OP should wear some of the blame, for so readily accepting assurances from a shop he has not checked out. Mind you, this might not be as easy as it would first seem.

So just sue them. Grrrr.
Old 03-01-2016, 06:22 AM
  #27  
UpFixenDerPorsche
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Originally Posted by Randy V
If you want a nice looking end product for the lettering, contact Bertrand Daoust for a set of vinyl stick-ons. Much better looking than any hand painted effort.

WOW !!!
Old 03-01-2016, 06:26 AM
  #28  
UpFixenDerPorsche
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Originally Posted by Bertrand Daoust
Thanks Randy.

This is mine. Same color as Randy.






I don't use paint but computer cut vinyl.
I digitized each letter/number.

The installation is quite simple. You install the letters one by one.
First, you make sure the surface is clean and free of any grease. There is a transfer tape on top of each letters.
You simply align it and gently put it on the top of the intake's lettering. If it is well aligned, you press on the transfer tape with your finger tip and then peel off the transfer tape. Not sure if it is clear but it is quite simple to do.

I did mine few years ago and they're still like new!
The photos were taken last summer.

It is a lot easier to do the job that way than paint it.
I use to paint signs and trucks by hand when I was younger and let me tell you that painting it by hand AND GET VERY NICE RESULT is quite hard unless you are use to do this.
With computer cut vinyl, you get razor sharp edges. It is a lot easier and if you want, you can remove it whenever you want without damaging the intake finish (on a powder coated intake). Like for changing color or returning to stock.

I can make them in a variety of basic colors.
"Porsche" and "32 V" in the same color or in 2 different colors.
You choose!

I can only make sets for the S4, GT and GTS intake.

30$ + shipping.
Just PM me if you need a set.

Thanks.

Surely there's a law restricting the posting of pornography on car enthusiast web sites ... |:-\
Old 03-01-2016, 09:33 AM
  #29  
kmascotto
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Nicely done Bertrand! They look great!
Old 03-01-2016, 10:29 AM
  #30  
Bertrand Daoust
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Thanks Kent.



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