Cam seal/oil pump seal replacement
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From: The Vacation State
Cam seal/oil pump seal replacement
In the middle of a T belt replacement (T-belt, tensioner, waterpump are off - waiting for parts. I've read all the relevant posts about routine maintenance. So I will be replacing Camshaft seals, crank seal, oil pump seal. In the workshop manual 15-6 I see the shaft seal. There are also a couple of 0-rings.
Am I correct in assuming that as for routine mainenace, just replacing the camshaft seals is sufficient? Am I also correct in assuming the O-rings would only be replaced when removing camshaft housing?
The manual shows an exploded view of the camshaft. Is there any special care for removing and installing the cam sprocket (i.e. sprocket location on the camshaft)?
I have a 16v non interference. When the T belt was removed (after TDC was achieved and the cam marks lwered ined up) it appears the sprocket has moved a little. 15-14 says should the teeth of a hand-tightened camshaft drive belt not match the sprocket pitch enough, turn pertinent camshaft sprocket counterclockwise carefully until teeth match. Can the sprocket be moved by hand now? Seems pretty tough to move.
Any recommendations for lub. for the seals?
Any recommendations for gasket sealant?
I see a special tool used for removing the oil pump drive wheel - Tool 9157.
Any homemade tools for oil pump sprocket removal?
Am I correct in assuming that as for routine mainenace, just replacing the camshaft seals is sufficient? Am I also correct in assuming the O-rings would only be replaced when removing camshaft housing?
The manual shows an exploded view of the camshaft. Is there any special care for removing and installing the cam sprocket (i.e. sprocket location on the camshaft)?
I have a 16v non interference. When the T belt was removed (after TDC was achieved and the cam marks lwered ined up) it appears the sprocket has moved a little. 15-14 says should the teeth of a hand-tightened camshaft drive belt not match the sprocket pitch enough, turn pertinent camshaft sprocket counterclockwise carefully until teeth match. Can the sprocket be moved by hand now? Seems pretty tough to move.
Any recommendations for lub. for the seals?
Any recommendations for gasket sealant?
I see a special tool used for removing the oil pump drive wheel - Tool 9157.
Any homemade tools for oil pump sprocket removal?
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Minneapolis
A lot of questions there, lemme take a crack:
The cam O-rings are best done with the cam towers off. I'll be someone could do it in-situ, but I wouldn't.
The cams have keys that position the sprokets. You can't mess up the position.
You'll need to use a large wrench around the bolt to turn the cams.
I'd use assembly lube on the inside (wear usrface) of the seals.
Gasket sealants are a topic for voodoo belief debates. Following the manual is always a good option. I will put a thin coat of hardening ("#1") gasket maker on if the surfaces look corroded.
To loosen the oil pump, I stuck two deep sockets through the sproket holes that fit well. Then put a short crowbar between them. Hard to describe, but that jammed the sprocket so I could get the nut off. Not sure what parts you're getting, but the O-ring around the pump body was the leaker for me.
The cam O-rings are best done with the cam towers off. I'll be someone could do it in-situ, but I wouldn't.
The cams have keys that position the sprokets. You can't mess up the position.
You'll need to use a large wrench around the bolt to turn the cams.
I'd use assembly lube on the inside (wear usrface) of the seals.
Gasket sealants are a topic for voodoo belief debates. Following the manual is always a good option. I will put a thin coat of hardening ("#1") gasket maker on if the surfaces look corroded.
To loosen the oil pump, I stuck two deep sockets through the sproket holes that fit well. Then put a short crowbar between them. Hard to describe, but that jammed the sprocket so I could get the nut off. Not sure what parts you're getting, but the O-ring around the pump body was the leaker for me.
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From: The Vacation State
GlenL thanks,
I assume slight movement of cams is normal, mine were definately line up when I installed the flywheel lock and took off the belt. Is counterclockwise turning of crankshaft the norm when they do move?
By the way, mine did not have the 45 degree marks on the damper, so I locked the flywheel at TDC, just as the manual stated.
I assume slight movement of cams is normal, mine were definately line up when I installed the flywheel lock and took off the belt. Is counterclockwise turning of crankshaft the norm when they do move?
By the way, mine did not have the 45 degree marks on the damper, so I locked the flywheel at TDC, just as the manual stated.
Nordschleife Master
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From: Minneapolis
The cams will slip when you release the belt. Which way I don't know. At least with the non-interference engine you're safe.
That 45 degree thing is for S4 engines I believe. For us the TDC is OK and makes re-assembly easier.
That 45 degree thing is for S4 engines I believe. For us the TDC is OK and makes re-assembly easier.
