Saucy

I'm planning to purchase an S4 soon and looking for advice from the tank.

Given the options of...
1. 50k miles S4 with maintenance needed and limited documentation
2. 100k miles S4 with maintenance up to date and complete documentation

Both options are similar price points. Which would you choose given that you are mechanically inclined and want to learn, but don't yet have every tool.

I'm assuming most here would opt for option 1, as that way you know the work is done right with the right solutions and you get the experience and pride of doing it yourself.

Thanks
michael

Hilton

Easy, buy the one in the best cosmetic condition.

Paint/interior are much much more expensive than mechanical, to get done well.

Also don't believe "up to date" maintenance.. from most sellers that just means its had basic servicing, and still has thousands of dollars of parts to go to fix all the niggling issues

Cosmo Kramer

In this case a PPI is your friend to see if the one with maintenance up to date is worth the money. Cosmetically are they similar? Paint and interior are expensive fixes on these cars.

Speedtoys

Depends what "servicing" means.

This is what a decent

owners log of "servicing" looks like.

James Bailey

Also do NOT assume that simply because someone paid a shop to do the work, that it was done right. Only means they paid for it.....

Tom in Austin

Ideally buy a 928 from someone here who's obsessed over it and fixed lots of the little stuff.

Other than by seeing the odometer, there are plenty of beautiful 100K+ mile examples you'd never guess from their appearance. Plus, a conscientious owner will have already done the ~100K big jobs like the intake refresh, motor mounts, shocks, torque tube bearings, and etc.

Saucy

Thanks for all the quick input guys.

Cosmetically, I would say they both look good and comparable, though 100k miler has had some interior work completed.

Randy V

Also don't assume the odo on the 50K car is accurate.

That is very low mileage for such an old car.

What are the asking prices on each?

As mentioned, pay for a PPI done by a 928-centric mechanic. Use that report to negotiate the final (lower) price. A PPI most always pays for itself then some when used correctly in the negotiation process.

Saucy

Thanks Guys.

I'd love to purchase an S4 from someone here. But, I know there could be some diamonds to be purchased and polished that are not known on rennlist.

The 50k car is $4k less than 100k car. Which in my mind is the difference in parts (sans labor) between the two.

michael

cpayne

I qualify the sellers by asking them what their rennlist username is in the 928 forum.
As others have said without documentation and a solid PPI , you should expect several thousand in parts. Happy Hunting!

928 DesMoines

If you are serious, I recommend that you quickly contact Ryan from this board, AKA carnahanbb. Here is a link to his car if it isn't already sold. He took great care and put some real taste into it. Very nice car.
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...-or-trade.html


There is a Porsche dealer in his city, so a PPI should be fairly easy.

dr bob

I'd buy the low-miles car and plan to do EVEYTHING to it. Vs the higher-miles car and plan for the probable need to do or re-do EVERYTHING to it.

As Speedtoys and Jim Bailey point out, there's a lot to a well-maintained car that's not always obvious. I change the oil and other fluids regularly, check the air in the tires at least a couple times a year, and think that it's well-maintained. Or I'm a fanatical predictive-maintenance owner, who fixes or at least inspects everything that anyone here reports as a problem, keeps the shock absorbers and undercarriage polished and waxed, etc.

A qualified PPI will tell you a ton about the cars and drive the decision better than my philosphical opinion above. Cars are priced relative to what you are getting and what will need to be done. Secret-- when someone shopping for my car starts a negotiation with a list of deducts for things that they say need to be done, I immediately move the initial number up to present value of what the car originally sold for, so they have a good number to start "deducting" from.

When shopping, I get a PPI to get an idea what to expect, but at least with the 928 there's a very broad spectrum of quality in cars in the market in any given period. Trying to find a starting point from which to add or deduct is arbitrary at best. Read a current discussion about valuing a car for insurance purposes, and find out what's subjective and what's objective. You'll get a clinic.

hacker-pschorr

What are the color combinations?

I would pay more for a car that needs more maintenance if the colors are more unique / desirable.

All things being equal I'd pay more for the car without rub strips (it's one of the 3 reasons I purchased my 87 & 78).

safulop

Back in 2010 I had a choice between a 72K mile 89 (so, digital dash) and a 130K mile 88. I picked the 88 because the exterior looked better and I trusted the owner had maintained it better. It has turned out OK after all those years, pretty much predictable maintenance for the most part and still not bad exterior.

Saucy

Interior color is one of my hesitations on the cars. The 50k car has linen and the 100k car has black. Id prefer something interesting, along the lines of burgundy, blue or cork. Call me odd.

I love the idea of the low mileage vehicle but price seems high and the interior reminds me of white plastic covered coach and love-seat.