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92862822103 Crank drive (new arms come with new bushings)
92862824304 Lever (wear point)
PCG62812900 x2 Arm bushes
94462812900 x 2 Arm Bushes
94462812600 Grommet
94462812700 Bush
92862871602 Grommet
92862871701 Grommet
Thanks Speedways. Here is diagram showing where the replacement parts fit in.
Wiper blade angle is not correct. The blades must be in a trailing wipe; in other words the blade must angle back when wiping. This must be in either direction. The blade should rock-over in each direction. On must cars when the blade stops in the off position it will be laying down and may take a set and not rock over when started. This will cause the blade to chisel (plow) into the window and stick-slip making a skipping wipe.
Hi Michael. Clay bar and Glass sealant from Griots will help a lot. I have some at the shop. If you are coming by the Portland Auto Show this next weekend, I 'll have a booth up by the Porsche's and Audi's. I'll be displaying an Alfa Romeo Sprint.
best, neil
Looks like a good refresh of everything important would be new:
92862822103 Crank drive (new arms come with new bushings)
92862824304 Lever (wear point)
PCG62812900 x2 Arm bushes
94462812900 x 2 Arm Bushes
94462812600 Grommet
94462812700 Bush
92862871602 Grommet
92862871701 Grommet
Clean Motor/Transmission, and wiring plug.
...$250 and another system to forget about for 30yrs.
You guys got me thinking about our GT, 260K miles and I've never been in there-- no idea what the PO's might have done. And I did have the wipers seize up on an early 912-- lacka lube on the wiper-arm shafts-- not fun.
So I dove in this afternoon, lots of dirt, wet leaves, etc. But the rubber was still rubber-like, the grease inside was fresh, bushings were tight. Cleaned everything, buttoned-up and back in the car. Time well spent for peace of mind next time we're playing "submarine" through Olympia.
Rain-X is great if it doesn't rain much. The problem we have is greasy road spray in heavy rain and heavy traffic, and Rain-X just seems to make it worse.
Originally Posted by Speedtoys
The s4 drawing suggests that the arms come as part of the full crank drive assembly. No separate PN.
This is true, and it looks to be NLA. Check with Mark, there has to be good ones on his shelf.
This weekend, I decided to pull the regulator and give it a good overhaul. There are some pretty good resources from other Rennlist users who BTDT: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-overhaul.html. This is also fairly well documented in the WSM, Section 92-6 and a good parts list in the PET.
Most people claim the studded comes from play in the pivots and bushing and possibly from the dry grease in the motor transmission.
I decided to remove the regulator and work through all the components. The regulator itself was in very good condition.
The drive arm bushings which are no longer available, showed no signs of play and the mounting ***** were also in perfect condition. I removed, cleaned, and repacked them with a synthetic grease designed for suspension forks for Mountain bike suspension forks which have plastic bushings sliding on metal shafts. It's non reactive to plastic and won't dry out. So I figured it was application appropriate. I was expecting this to be the main case of the studded but given the good condition here, I figured I'd look elsewhere.
I used a clamp to re-attach the ***** into the socket
The next place I looked for play was the pivots where the wiper arms are mounted. They turned freely with no friction and did not have any noticeable play. But I decided to overhaul them as well. The pivot is made up of the following components from top to bottom
The pivot shaft rides on a brass bushing inside the regulator housing. I re-assembled with some thick weatherproof grease and gave the spring washer a little extra bend to help eliminate any runout play. Again, the pivots had not play before or after, so it's not clear this was the cause of wiper stutter.
With all moving pieces of the regulator overhauled, I turned my attention to the motor and transmission. From my previous experience with the window motors the factory non-synthetic grease has become dry and was actually impending the function of the motor. I removed the motor transmission cover to find the same nasty dry grease. My trick to getting the grease out is to liquify the grease using mineral spirits in a spray bottle and cheap paint brush. Spray it in let it sit, agitate with brush and spray to rinse out. Repeat a few times until clean. I used a little brake clean at the end to and air compressor to get the last bits out. It cleaned up perfectly. I repacked the transmission with the synthetic suspension grease described above I packed the grease around the edge and where the spiral drive interfaces the large cog.
I also opened the motor up for an inspection. It looked pretty clean inside and there was about 50% life left on the motor brushes. So I just sprayed some DeoxIt in there and put it back together.
I used silicone to seal up the gaps on the retaining tabs. It looks like it was originally sealed with melted plastic.
In considering the possible causes of the stutter so far, the only thing I could think of as a cause would have been the stiffness of the grease in the transmission causing the worm gear to ride up and jump down. The motor has some vertical runout play in its design. if the grease was stiff enough I could see it causing the motor to ride up and down and cause the stutter, but this could also be true if there was a high degree of friction on the windshield (the other prevailing theory).
I re-assembled the system and put it back into the car. I was able to replace the rubber grommets that sandwich the regulator onto the chassis. There are four of them and they are male and female. The PET calls for 4-part numbers but it's one part-set with four pieces. So make sure you don't order 4 sets!
I was able to get the regulator installed and them motor tested. But I haven't gotten the valence on or arms either, so I can't tell you if if worked yet. Hopefully within the next couple days.
I discovered that my wiper HW was dragging on the cowl cover under the hood, it was 100% the source of my squeak im the movement, and 95% the source of the drag/stutter of the wiper across the window...the last 5% is likely that I run the longest possible blades that fit and not run into the trim.
This weekend, I decided to pull the regulator and give it a good overhaul. There are some pretty good resources from other Rennlist users who BTDT: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-overhaul.html. This is also fairly well documented in the WSM, Section 92-6 and a good parts list in the PET.
Most people claim the studded comes from play in the pivots and bushing and possibly from the dry grease in the motor transmission.
I decided to remove the regulator and work through all the components. The regulator itself was in very good condition.
The drive arm bushings which are no longer available, showed no signs of play and the mounting ***** were also in perfect condition. I removed, cleaned, and repacked them with a synthetic grease designed for suspension forks for Mountain bike suspension forks which have plastic bushings sliding on metal shafts. It's non reactive to plastic and won't dry out. So I figured it was application appropriate. I was expecting this to be the main case of the studded but given the good condition here, I figured I'd look elsewhere.
I used a clamp to re-attach the ***** into the socket
The next place I looked for play was the pivots where the wiper arms are mounted. They turned freely with no friction and did not have any noticeable play. But I decided to overhaul them as well. The pivot is made up of the following components from top to bottom
The pivot shaft rides on a brass bushing inside the regulator housing. I re-assembled with some thick weatherproof grease and gave the spring washer a little extra bend to help eliminate any runout play. Again, the pivots had not play before or after, so it's not clear this was the cause of wiper stutter.
With all moving pieces of the regulator overhauled, I turned my attention to the motor and transmission. From my previous experience with the window motors the factory non-synthetic grease has become dry and was actually impending the function of the motor. I removed the motor transmission cover to find the same nasty dry grease. My trick to getting the grease out is to liquify the grease using mineral spirits in a spray bottle and cheap paint brush. Spray it in let it sit, agitate with brush and spray to rinse out. Repeat a few times until clean. I used a little brake clean at the end to and air compressor to get the last bits out. It cleaned up perfectly. I repacked the transmission with the synthetic suspension grease described above I packed the grease around the edge and where the spiral drive interfaces the large cog.
I also opened the motor up for an inspection. It looked pretty clean inside and there was about 50% life left on the motor brushes. So I just sprayed some DeoxIt in there and put it back together.
I used silicone to seal up the gaps on the retaining tabs. It looks like it was originally sealed with melted plastic.
In considering the possible causes of the stutter so far, the only thing I could think of as a cause would have been the stiffness of the grease in the transmission causing the worm gear to ride up and jump down. The motor has some vertical runout play in its design. if the grease was stiff enough I could see it causing the motor to ride up and down and cause the stutter, but this could also be true if there was a high degree of friction on the windshield (the other prevailing theory).
I re-assembled the system and put it back into the car. I was able to replace the rubber grommets that sandwich the regulator onto the chassis. There are four of them and they are male and female. The PET calls for 4-part numbers but it's one part-set with four pieces. So make sure you don't order 4 sets!
I was able to get the regulator installed and them motor tested. But I haven't gotten the valence on or arms either, so I can't tell you if if worked yet. Hopefully within the next couple days.
Excellent write up. My wiper refurb pics arrived last week, and your pics/description will be immensely helpful in my work. Thanks for posting.
The wiper stutter issue has been solved. I have driven my car several days in a wide variety of rain conditions here in Portland, Oregon over the past few weeks. The stutter problem is gone.
My conclusion is that the stutter was coming from the stiff grease in the wiper motor gears. The grease in there was yellowed and stiff. All the moving other parts in the system seemed to be functioning smoothly without binding. So motor seems like the obvious culprit. Anecdotally, when I performed the same overhaul on drivers window motor. The window moved up and down noticeably faster and the motor sounds far less under-duress.
I know there has been a bit of debate on the root cause in the past. So this may not be everyones solution.
Hopefully this was useful for others.
BUMP
my wipers have the stutter; not horrible and pronounced, but not as smooth and uniform in motion, as I am certain, it should be. linkage is smooth, so I am focused on the motor gear as Benno has suggested. under the gear cover, I was disappointed to find the factory grease in nice shape:
if anything, grease appears "thin." guessing it is best to clean out the old grease and repack; not sure if I can readily get the bicycle grease MIke suggests. what is the best choice for this application? something with more body (thicker), synthetic? also, should the grease be spread out over the entire ring gear (like in my photo), or only on the worm and gear?
01-22-2017, 12:17 PM
