Jon F

Has anyone else had this happen to them? I'm now limited to reverse, second, and fourth gears. Obviously, I need to replace the guide rod (it snapped cleanly where the rod meets the bracket). Does anyone know if this can be done without dropping the torque tube? I'm going to replace the ball cup while I'm in there. Anything else I should consider replacing? Time for a short shift kit? Does anyone have a used guide rod for sale? Any idea how much the big 3 would charge for a used one? Thanks!

GlenL

It snapped at the shifter end? That is a new one at least to me.

I'm not sure that the rod can be fed in through the top. My recollections of that area say no. Certainly the way to try before dropping the torque tube.

Here's hoping!

onebad928s

are you sure the front shift rod snapped? I couldnt ship forward at all this past couple of days and it was because the ball cup came off the ball. Easily fixed after a few hours.I didnt have to drop the torque tube but did have to remove the heat shield,02 sensor and if you have a cat thats got to come out too.Also had to disconnect the shifter.Good Luck

Lou
83 928 5speed

WallyP

A really unusual failure!

The front rod runs from the shift lever through a support bearing just in front of the shifter to the ball atop the torque tube.

You need to be VERY careful to avoid damaging the support bearing - the torque tube has to be removed in order to change the bearing! If you spread the foam rubber at the front of the shifter, you can just see the bearing - a plastic ring in a rubber support.

If your front shifter rod is cleanly broken, so that it will easily pass thru the support bearing, you MIGHT be able to pop the cup off of the ball and work the rod forward and out. Or, you may have to pop the cup off and unscrew it from the rod so that you can pull the rod back and out inside the car.

If you get a used rod, and get the old one out, clean the new rod carefully, and try inserting it from the top.

Be VERY careful to avoid popping the bearing ring out of the rubber support!!

If there is any wear in the cup, this would be a good time to replace it. You can also adjust the vertical position of the shifter fore and aft by how far you screw the cup onto the front shifter rod.

No idea how much a used rod will cost - I don't remember ever hearing of one being sold! You can call Jeannie at (828) 766-9280 (East Coat Hours) if you want to see if we have one.

(It would be risky, but not impossible, to pop the cup off, pull the rod as far into the car as possible, and weld it together. Wet rags on everything, fire extinguisher at the ready, etc., etc. Not recommended, but possible.)

Jon F

Here's a picture.

Jon F

I've got an update. Using Jim Bailey's advice, I unbolted the transmission and tipped the torque tube down enough to be able to access the bearing holder and shifter ball cup from underneath, and slipped my new-used guide rod in. Other than dropping the clutch on my nose (got lucky, just a small red mark) everything went well and the car is back together in time for the Sharktoberfest. See you all there tomorrow night! (unless something else breaks...)

Thanks again to Jim and Wally for the advice.

FWIW, there is no way I can see having done this replacement without tipping the torque tube down. Also, if it matters for the future (archives), my transmission is a G28/03 and my front guide rod is the curved version.

Gretch

Jon F,

Please post pictures of the broken rod.

Did you unbolt the transmission or clutch bell housing? They are at opposite ends of the torque tube, so for reference, I want to be sure what you mean.

Jon F

I unbolted only the clutch bellhousing. I left everything attached at the transmission end, including the axles and all of the suspension. I did remove the exhaust, heat shields, and the clutch, plus the two bolts that hold the transmission to the crossmember. After that, I just jacked the transmission up slightly to give it room to tilt, then let the torque tube down with a jack once I undid the bolts at the clutch bellhousing end and pushed it back very slightly (I'd say about 5-10mm). The torque tube came down far enough for me to easily be able to reach the bearing housing nuts on both sides without having to reach up into the tunnel area.

Gretch

Wow, I can see why this type of failure is so infrequent. That must have been some kind of power shifting you were doing, eh?

Jon F

Since I've only had the car since July, I'm going to take this opportunity to place the blame squarely with the previous owners.

Gretch

Well I envy you that luxury. As I have owned Gretch for 12 years, anything wrong with her is my fault (or a design flaw, such as poor 2 - 6 oiling).