hupp

Well, I guess I'm the most recent victim of "air in the clutch hydraulics / pedal to the floor" syndrome.

During a recent replacement of the brake fluid reservoir grommet's, I detached the infamous, "blue hose" in order to remove the tank. Although I was carefully trying not to dump all of the fluid out of the hose, it ultimately ended up on the driveway. So, with everything reassembled I knew I faced the daunting task of removing air from the hydraulics.

Started with the gravity bleed at the slave. I took some time, but the clutch pedal actually began to respond - somewhat. Did not feel quite normal as of yet, but it would go in gear and it was getting late. I buttoned everything up and decided to wait until later to try the Kempf maneuver, but not before pumping the pedal a few times for the heck of it -- and she slowly came to life. The planets aligned, the birds sang and all was good, very good.

So what is going on? Did I just move the air bubble to a less troublesome spot, or did pumping the pedal force the air out through the reservoir.

By the way, no leaks anywhere, all parts appear to be in good condition.

Gregg K

One word- pressure bleeder. I managed to get my hydraulics working using several methods. But due to the ease and speed of pressure bleeding, I'll show you what I've come up with. If you have an air compressor with a regulator, this should be the cheapest, easiest method. And it costs about $20.

Rez

Gregg K,

Great idea. One question. I Want to do a clutch/brake combo bleed. Manual 47-22 reads, "First bleed clutch, if the brake master cylinder or break fluid tank had been removed." What about just general bleeding. Can I hook the pressure bleeder via your method, bleed the clutch and then move on to the brakes? Why would this be advantagous over a brake then clutch bleed?

Gregg K

Rez, I read that in the book, also. I've also read posts where members bleed the clutch last. I don't know anything other than what my manual states.
The only thing to be cautious about is keeping the reservoir full while bleeding. Successive bleeds will most likely eliminate any concern over which is bled first. A stiff pedal is all were trying to achieve.
I'm concerned by conflicting information in my books regarding dot 4 versus dot 3. The book says dot 4, the sticker on the intake says dot 3. Right now, I'm running synthetic dot 4.

BarryW

Don't apply more than 15-20 psi to the reservervoir or you might have a real mess on your hands.

Jfrahm

Where do you get that cap?

Gregg K

Thanks Barry. I was going to start out at ten psi. I should have mentioned that. It's actually not a smart thing for me to be broadcasting this without that precaution!!!!!!!

Jfrahm, here's the url http://motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm
I think it's the 1100.

John Veninger

check out www.928gt.com. Much cheaper for the motiveproducts bleeder

Gregg K

John, is it just me or is that site impossible? I can't find the pressure bleeder. Clicked maintenance, where I'd expect it to be, and nothing. That's why I avoid that website. Poorly designed. But I'm, let's say, not up to speed, so what do I know?

John Veninger

Try:
http://www.928gt.com./Brakes.htm#78-81
and page to the bottom. The site might not be the best, but the people who run the business are.
Just give them a call. It's $39.00

Joe Ricard

I bleed everytime I work on my car. Usually when the wrench slips.