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5 speed torque tube rebuild with locating pins

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Old 01-11-2016, 06:12 PM
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entropy_engineering
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Default 5 speed torque tube rebuild with locating pins

My torque tube bearings where starting to get a little noisy, and with the coming turbo I figured it was a good time to fix it. The rubber bushings where still tight and in good shape, but I felt more comfortable making pins to locate the bearings in place for the future. I was rather disappointed to find the plug missing on the bottom and rust along the bottom ahead of the first bearing. I stripped the entire thing down, lightly ball honed the end, treated the bad area with evaporust, cleaned with acetone, then sprayed some self etching primer inside as I assembled it. The bearing carriers got some light rust gently sandblasted, the new bearings covered with high temp grease, then a light coat of spray paint. The shaft itself got a light cleaning with a brass wire wheel, then a light coating of phosphoric acid (which leaves behind a protective phosphate coating). The pictures should explain the rest.
Old 01-11-2016, 06:13 PM
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entropy_engineering
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Last edited by entropy_engineering; 01-11-2016 at 06:37 PM.
Old 01-11-2016, 07:04 PM
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LT Texan
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nice. much more professional than the job I did with locating screws.
Old 01-12-2016, 12:54 PM
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davek9
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Nicely done and a lot of work, please let us know how this holds up over time.
Old 01-12-2016, 01:26 PM
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entropy_engineering
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Thanks a lot I will. I would have loved to get the Constantine bearings, but I'm 1) Too cheap, and 2) Don't have tremendous faith in my torque tube shaft or transaxle holding up long term. I drive pretty easy and avoid shock loads...but still. I welded the nuts all around to the tube because I didn't want to weaken the tube any drilling a row of holes in it. If it makes any real difference, who knows. I must say though, with a couple dedicated plates and some all-thread rod rebuilding this is a cake walk; just use a drill and out the parts come. The longest part is stripping the paint off with a pipe sanding machine.
Old 01-12-2016, 02:03 PM
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Imo000
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Nice work but just tapping the drilled holes and using the nuts to lock the bolts would have worked just as well.
Old 01-12-2016, 02:49 PM
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entropy_engineering
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The wall is pretty thin. Would only grab two or three threads...but yeah it would probably work. Or go extra ghetto and use self tapping screws. Pew.
Old 01-12-2016, 09:16 PM
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Imo000
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These is no probably, it works. Nothing ghetto about it.
Old 02-02-2016, 05:02 AM
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tailpipe
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I just used stainless steel 3/16 pop rivets worked very well....
Old 02-02-2016, 08:31 AM
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That's seems pretty good. No corrosion and a secure fit. You could even put silicone in the holes to prevent rusting of the tube. Part of the reason I went to the trouble of welding nuts to mine is because the upcoming turbo. I admit, it's very likely unnecessary, but I didn't want to weaken the tube any drilling holes in it...so I reasoned that welding a flange nut all the way around might restore the strength. Whether or not it makes any difference I really don't know.

Originally Posted by tailpipe
I just used stainless steel 3/16 pop rivets worked very well....



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