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Lumpy idle on warm restart

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Old 01-09-2016, 08:29 PM
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Chalkboss
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Default Lumpy idle on warm restart

87 S4. Intake refresh including all sensors done and rebuilt MAF. Injectors and dampeners and regulator all done.
It's done this before and after all the work, when at full operating temperature, when I go to restart if the car has been off for a bit, I get very low, hunting idle. After about 5 seconds it clears up and idles fine. Runs great, no other issues. Any ideas? I replaced the ISV too.
Old 01-10-2016, 01:14 PM
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davek9
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Have you checked w/ a meter that all the sensor signals are making it back to the ECU's?
Also just because a sensor is new does not mean its good

If was my car the first thing I would do is connect it to a Shark Tuner and see what the ECU's see.
Old 01-10-2016, 01:19 PM
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Chalkboss
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Good idea, I need to hunt one of those down. Maybe someone close to me has one that I can borrow.
Old 01-10-2016, 01:25 PM
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Bertrand Daoust
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How are the fuel regulator and dampers?

If leaking, it will give you problems (hard start, rough idle for few seconds).

Just saying.
Old 01-10-2016, 01:28 PM
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Ducman82
 
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^^^^ my money is on dampers/regulators. my car had the exact same issue
Old 01-10-2016, 01:37 PM
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davek9
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I would agree on that too (as it sounds like it's rich) but the OP stated.....
"87 S4. Intake refresh including all sensors done and rebuilt MAF. Injectors and dampeners and regulator all done. "

So that lead me to a signal issue
Old 01-10-2016, 01:54 PM
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Bertrand Daoust
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Good point Dave.

I missed that.

Sorry.

One other (small) thing, how is the fuel pump check valve?

Last edited by Bertrand Daoust; 01-10-2016 at 04:51 PM.
Old 01-10-2016, 05:37 PM
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Chalkboss
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I will check the one at the front- looking back at my records I did not change it. Both the rears were done. Bertrand, where is the fuel check valve and how do you test it?

Thanks
Old 01-10-2016, 05:50 PM
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Bertrand Daoust
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The fuel pump check valve is between the fuel pump and the filter.
Don't know how to check it though.



Edit: Might worth just changing it as it's not that expensive. About 20$ IIRC.

Last edited by Bertrand Daoust; 01-10-2016 at 06:07 PM.
Old 01-10-2016, 06:43 PM
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MainePorsche
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Originally Posted by Bertrand Daoust
The fuel pump check valve is between the fuel pump and the filter.
Don't know how to check it though.

Edit: Might worth just changing it as it's not that expensive. About 20$ IIRC.
Thought issues with this pressure retention valve were involved with rough starting, and not idle issues.
Old 01-10-2016, 09:19 PM
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Bertrand Daoust
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You're right Craig.

Don mentioned that after about 5 seconds it clears up and idles fine.

"...I get very low, hunting idle. After about 5 seconds it clears up and idles fine...
Old 01-11-2016, 04:20 PM
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Chalkboss
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I checked the dampeners and regulator, all hold vacuum. I was looking around for info on the fuel check valve (Thanks Bertrand) and found out how to test it, in case anyone needs to know:
http://www.nichols.nu/tip561.htm

Still want to hook up a sharktuner but need to find someone who will loan one out.
Old 01-12-2016, 09:03 AM
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John Speake
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The symptoms do match those caused by leaky injectors.

You say the injectors are "done", but were they leak tested ?

Have you monitored fuel pressure after switch off, to see how quickly the pressure drops ?
Old 01-12-2016, 10:17 AM
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Chalkboss
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[QUOTE=John Speake;12919853]The symptoms do match those caused by leaky injectors.

You say the injectors are "done", but were they leak tested ?

Have you monitored fuel pressure after switch off, to see how quickly the pressure drops ?[/QUOTE
No I have not. The injectors were sent out to Witch Hunter for rebuilding. I don't believe they were leak tested. As far as I recall they clean them, flow test and new seals. I need to look into this, as yesterday after thinking about it and considering all the work I came to the same conclusion as you but I dont have much experience with injectors and this mode of failure.

Thanks for the tip John.
Old 01-12-2016, 10:43 AM
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davek9
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My understanding from what Witch hunter would know while doing their testing is that they should see and find a leaking injector.
However old parts do and will eventually fail, it is possible that what had passed their testing is now leaking.
You can test them yourself, but they all need to be removed, watching for a fuel pressure drop would be first on my todo list before removing them


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