GLMoore

Hello All,

After not driving my 1985 928 at night for several weeks, I turned on the headlights and all lights worked properly. But soon, my passenger low beam headlight went out. I turned on the high beams, which worked normally.

I replaced the H4 bulb and in the process of putting a new blade fuse in the panel, discovered that the fuses for my turn signals and running lights had also blown, and in fact melted and bonded to the fuse block that holds fuses 31 thru 35.

When removing the 3 blown fuses, the fuse block pulled out of the fuse panel, and is no longer reuseable. I'm going to try to insert a new fuse block for fuses 31 thru 35.

1. I need a new fuse block, or an old CE panel that I can remove the fuse block from.

2. I have a question about the Relay for the Headlight motor. My headlight motor is working properly even though the headlight fuse is blown. Is it possible that a bad headlight relay would allow the headlights to go up and down properly but blow the fuse on the headlight?

Any comments or advice or would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Gary

Ducman82

call Tom at 928 Intl about getting a fuse block. and just incase you find one , each block in internally jumped differently. so DO NOT just plug in a random block without checking.

headlight motor only shares a "connection" with the light elements them selves via the large relay. i doubt the motor is causing the lights to go out. sounds like you could have a short. id start checking the wiring.

davek9

GLMoore, the Fuse melting in the Fuse block is the result of "dirty / oxidized" Fuse connections, not a circuit over current issue.
This is a Known issue w/ all 928's that sit outside or leak water into the inside.

You need to disconnect the battery and remove the CE panel and clean all the connections and make the repairs needed.

Edit: and find the leak

Alan

What Dave says. Almost certainly none of those fuses was actually blown - they just melted due to heat from the fuse blade connectors - not from the fuse element. The current while they were melting would have been less than normal in fact (dim lights etc). This is caused by poor connectivity at the fuse holder - either due to mechanical issues (looseness) or by oxidation of the connector & fuse blade (usually dampness - water dripping on the panel). It is likely some other fuses are compromised too (maybe relays as well) so replace this fuse block and attempt some chemical cleaning of all of the panel - new good quality fuses throughout would be a good plan too.


IMPORTANT

You need the correct numbered block from the exact same year of car - or you need to inspect it electrically - internally these are not all the same. There are input shorts that vary by year. Please don't ignore this point - you can destroy your car if you fail to pay attention to this.

Alan

GLMoore

Thanks for responding.

I examined the back of the panel. This car is in excellent shape and not driven in the rain.

The entire panel (including the space where fuse block 31-35 fits), and all terminals and wiring in and around the back of the panel are clean and dry with no rust or evidence of high heat, corrosion, discoloration or water intrusion. So it seems that the problem is not caused by a bad panel or its connections.

However, fuses 31, 32, 38 and 39 (the headlight fuses) were partially melted and discolored and I can't tell if the filament inside actually blew or not on all of them. A filament in one of the damaged fuses does appear to be undamaged. The heat also damaged their fuse blocks.

I believe I need to insert a replacement fuse block for 31-35 before proceeding with troubleshooting since there are no fuses there now. The fuse block for 36 -40 looks like it should still work.

Roger hasn't responded yet and Tom only sells the entire panel for $250, so I am still looking around for a less expensive panel. Los Angeles Auto Parts has one for $150 so I guess I'll buy theirs.

Also, the headlight relay is $150, so I'm hesitating to buy a new one until I replace the fuse block. The headlights go up and down ok and I don't know if the relay could have caused the problems with the fuses and still allow the motor to work.

If you know anyone who might have a used panel for a 1985, please let me know.

I really appreciate your comments as this stuff is out of my league.
Gary

Ducman82

i would REALLY take that panel out and clean all the connections. or you are going to be doing this all over again. they may not look corroded, but its there.

davek9

^^^^ Exactly^^^^

You asked for advice and we are giving it to you, one more time ... melted Fuses are due to a bad fuse connection, else the Fuse would have just blown or the wiring melted if the Fuse was an incorrect size.

The CE comes out very easily, pull the Big red **** to remove all the connections along the bottom and use a #10mm wrench to remover the ground and power (red) wires.

Then post some pic's of your CE

Mark Anderson

We can supply one at our Christmas price of $125. Just make sure you have the number off your old one when ordering as there are more than one for 1985

bureau13

Blown fuses don't really get hot like that, to echo what others are saying. That's why they're there...to blow before something bad happens.

Check to see if they're loose too...

GLMoore

Seeing all the wires and connections on the back of the panel, I had no idea that removing the CE panel and replacing it would be relatively simple. I will attempt to remove the panel and get a replacement from Mark.

I don't see a thread on the removal of the CE panel.

On my 85 S, I don't see a large red **** at the bottom. I do see a triangular shaped plastic tab at the bottom center of the panel. Does pulling this out of the panel allow the removal of all the wires along the bottom row of the panel?

davek9

yes its in the center on the bottom, when pulled it slides the locking bar at the bottom for all of the colored plugs.
you still need to gently push the small tab on each connector at the top over.

each plug is color coded and Lettered, take a few pic's before removing anything.

Then its just the main power and ground wires on top, and two large Phillip's screws.

Wisconsin Joe

CE panel removal:

http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...04-Bzzzzzt.htm

It's really pretty simple.

Use Stabilant or DeOxit on the whole thing.

Edit to fix link

GLMoore

Will order a replacement panel from 928 Int'l today.

Thank you so much for helping me with this.

prescott

Something like this happened on mine last year. The two 30 amp fuses to my radiator fans welded themselves and my CE plastic together in a black mess.

Do yourself a favor and order a complete used CE panel along with all new fuses and relays (no telling how old those old ones are on your current board). When you get the new one, clean all the connections to bright and shiny with an emory board or dremel (the first worked better for me). Then clean them all with Deoxit (just to make sure). Then a coat on the contacts with Stabilant. The new fuses (not cheapo chinese ones from checkers) should come from the big 3 supporters on this site, then you know you won't be doing this again. Assemble the board, put labels on on the relays (you can geet it here if you search). Then, go around the car at this time and clean all your grounds the same way. This makes a huge difference in so many areas!

I dreaded this job, but it was very easy....just take your time. Those plastic "arms" are old and brittle on the CE panel.

Good luck!
Brian