Mark Thornton

I am 1/2 way with this problem I now have 1 light that lights drivers side ng I energized the fuse #31 and the lamp lights , I tried two different relays I will light up the right side the other only raises and lowers the pods.. so I think it is safe to say that relay is bad.. Stumped again. folks

Mrmerlin

take the relays and clean all 4 of the contacts inside each one ,
put a drop of Deoxit 100 on the contacts. test it

MainePorsche

Mark,
In this post you sound like you just ran up several flights of stairs and are trying to explain who shot who downstairs - catch your breath and explain clearly what symptoms the lighting system has.

Alan

Please don't post about the same issue in different threads. It helps nobody.

if I recall you said one side works and the other doesn't. It is IMPOSSIBLE for it to be the relay if this is true - the relay feeds both sides in the same way.

Alan

MainePorsche

Yep.
Though I'm still not clear on his issue. He powered fuse 31 so has high beam on one side. Low beam status ? He may think he has lights, but may be only powering the high beam line at the fuse on that side. Need to check the Q sockets at the CE panel and fuses 38 & 39. Need to proceed logically/methodically to determine if hardline/relay problem here.

Mark Thornton

Sorry about that Still learnin the Game.. My problem now is I have the right front headlamp working.. the left will not come on unless I power it up at the #31 fuse I checked the power coming into the fuse Top spade of the fuse and have 2 volts, This is a Replacement CE panel. and almost all my electrical gremlins have gone away. with the exception of the lights.. I tried to clean and deox the old panel but I guess it was just too corroaded. Also Thanks to all the listers as if not for all your help I would never have gotten anywhere with the repair of this car.

Alan

If in fact only one side ever worked - you have been leading us a merry chase here (seasonal?!).

Anyway - be very clear what your symptoms are. The quality of the answers is always highly dependant on the quality of the questions (think about that... imagine you were the one trying to answer) the more you tell us (e.g. the less relevant detail you leave out) and the more concise you can be - the faster you will get the answers you need and the less missdirected answers you will get (and lets face it these can cost you a lot of time and money).

Less haste... more speed?

Slow down, think what you actually know and lay it all out clearly for us. It seems here the truth may be different from what any normal person might have presumed from what you've told us so far...

Alan

MainePorsche

First, check status of fuses 38 & 39 (R and L low beams) as well as the fuse's connection. How do the female receptacles look ? Are they loose ? If fuses are good, next place the leads of your DVM at each side of the fuse receptacle. Should have battery/alternator voltage with the head light switch on. Start here to exclude this part of the circuit.

Mark Thornton

OK , Yes Alan I am getting too excited , I have owned this car for 9 months , So far I have changed air filter,fuel pump, fuel filter , LH computer, Mass Airflow sensor rebuilt Calibrated) All fuel lines all Vac lines (engine) Starter 2 Xs ,ignition switch, CE panel, Almost all the relays, I just ordered a new window sw. Fuel gauge sending unit (still will not work) complete Dash Gauge cluster (mostly my fault I dropped it) Gates timing belt Poken tensioner , water pump, Thermostat. All new rad hoses and heater hoses, replaced new gaskets cam covers new spark plugs Crank positioning sensor , Temp ll sensor, New front rotors and pads, Steering rack boots, shift linkage ball and rear link, (Mother to install) cleaned tested and resealed all injectors. and new battery so far I drove it a total 2 miles testing it .. It go's like Stink love it and worth it ,

Fogey1

At the risk of being a boring, old pedant, are the molded-in part numbers on the upper right of your original CE panel and the Replacement CE panel you have currently have installed the same? That could be the source of your problem.

Someplace there's a great page or thread by someone who successfully rehabbed their corroded CE Panel and its main connectors by soaking it and them in a bucket of diluted CLR.
http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htm
Seems weird, but can't argue with the result. Of course I can't find it.

Alan

Fuses 31 & 32 are for the high beams.. ?

I think you need fuses 38 & 39 for low beams (unless you have issues on both - or even only on high beam).

The top connections of fuse 31 & fuse 32 should be connected together and also connected to pin 56a (High Beam) of the headlight relay (socket). The top connections of fuses 38 & 39 also should be connected together and also connected to pin 56b (Low Beam) of the headlight relay (socket).

Remove fuses 38 & 39 and see if the top pins are indeed connected together, don't test with the fuses in , (use ohms/continuity mode on the DVM). If your high beams exhibit the (same) issue you can do the same procedure for 31 and 32.

Alan

MainePorsche

Alan,
I was thinking of leading OP to determining if he had current going to 38 & 39 when headlight switched on. This would have told us if relay was feeding these fuses thru 56 when switched. I think he already said that cages (motor) go up when switched, so I was thinking to exclude/include the headlight relay as a cause with this maneuver. From the little info I was able to perceive prior, it sounded like the issue will be distal to the relay. Relay status needs to be verified before moving on.

Alan

If either of L/R works in any mode it means the relay works for that mode, so that is the question to be answered. These fuses are only energized with the headlight switch in position 2 (of 0-1-2), the ignition on, and beam selector in the associated position (or for high beam only - when the pull to flash is active).

Alan

Mark Thornton

Thanks guys for the info , This is what I wanted to know , Seems my relay is good as Alan said if one comes on then the relay is working.. I am going to ck the fuses for cont.

Mark Thornton

Well , I found out that I was cking the High beams all along not the low beams I switched to low beams and both headlamps lit up ,, Whoopee,, I can get both high beams to flash with the switch but if I put on the high beams I still only have the one working. Gotta be a dirty conn. at the fuse .. ??