Brake Job Advice
09-30-2003, 04:11 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
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PorKen,
You could lose the backing plates, but on any "S" car, they help direct cooling air flow on the rotors, so I don't know that you'd want to lose them.
Slotted rotors also shed water, they just move it off a little differently than a "holed" rotor.
Greg
You could lose the backing plates, but on any "S" car, they help direct cooling air flow on the rotors, so I don't know that you'd want to lose them.
Slotted rotors also shed water, they just move it off a little differently than a "holed" rotor.
Greg
09-30-2003, 10:21 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
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I took the easy way out, just call one of the big 3 and tell them to send you everything you need. My brakes do not squeel, do not dust and stop straight and true.
The only additional thing I needed was emergency brake shoes; they were disintegrating. I was suprised at the high cost and they were not fun to replace ( I hate springs
)
The only additional thing I needed was emergency brake shoes; they were disintegrating. I was suprised at the high cost and they were not fun to replace ( I hate springs
)
09-30-2003, 10:37 AM
#19
Range Master
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All good advice, what a store of knowledge the 'list is eh?
gbyron, my compliments on a nice, balanced commentary. Yep, I went with the "holey rotors" for looks. The also shed heat faster than solid rotors, and converting kinetic energy into heat is the physics of braking. so I convinced myself that for a street car they were a step up. I agree that for racing I would choose slotted rotors.
Lizard, the rotors on my '00 C4 are steel, cast hole.
gbyron, my compliments on a nice, balanced commentary. Yep, I went with the "holey rotors" for looks. The also shed heat faster than solid rotors, and converting kinetic energy into heat is the physics of braking. so I convinced myself that for a street car they were a step up. I agree that for racing I would choose slotted rotors.
Lizard, the rotors on my '00 C4 are steel, cast hole.
09-30-2003, 01:34 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
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Gretch,
Thanks for the compliment. For 95% of the folks, it just boils down to personal taste. The function level of S4+ brakes is so good (in a street driven scenario) that any performance difference is really kinda moot.
The other 5% (who track their car hard in some fashion) should spend the $ to buy cryo-treated gas slotted rotors, and if they're worried about unsprung, they go with a 2-piece rotor/hat combo.
There's always a choice, sometimes (like this time) there's not a really clear "right/wrong" for most street driving folks.
Greg
Thanks for the compliment. For 95% of the folks, it just boils down to personal taste. The function level of S4+ brakes is so good (in a street driven scenario) that any performance difference is really kinda moot.
The other 5% (who track their car hard in some fashion) should spend the $ to buy cryo-treated gas slotted rotors, and if they're worried about unsprung, they go with a 2-piece rotor/hat combo.
There's always a choice, sometimes (like this time) there's not a really clear "right/wrong" for most street driving folks.
Greg
09-30-2003, 02:23 PM
#21
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WYAIT - as Jim said, grease the bearings...maybe even replace them.
IF you go with the Zimmerman rotors, get a hi-temp paint for the rotor hats...they will quickly develop surface rust...quite unsightly if you have nice wheels....
Buy the power bleeder...~$40 from the big 3...makes brake bleeding a SNAP. Because I AX and DE on a regular basis - I change the fluid about every 3 months (ESPECIALLY after a DE weekend!)
IF you go with the Zimmerman rotors, get a hi-temp paint for the rotor hats...they will quickly develop surface rust...quite unsightly if you have nice wheels....
Buy the power bleeder...~$40 from the big 3...makes brake bleeding a SNAP. Because I AX and DE on a regular basis - I change the fluid about every 3 months (ESPECIALLY after a DE weekend!)