hlee96

Hi Daniel, I agree completely, and it's why I'm pretty bummed out about it. Looking like the most important parts of the euro s CIS engine may be damaged too, valves, head, etc. it will take me this entire winter to get enough motivation to open it up and assess the damage. Oh well, lesson learned with buying an engine that was not verified to start, but it ran as I was told.

RennPartsDirect

Hoi-
I am very disappointed to read all this. If I can find a replacement piston I will buy it and ship it to you. I knew the engine needed some love but I did not know that it was in that much need. If I can help in any way beyond finding a replacement piston, please let me know...

SS

hlee96

Hi Steve,

Thank you for your offer and being a standup guy. I will slowly tear down the engine and see what's really going on. Keeping my fingers cross

This is a learning experience, but I do find it fun and is all part of the process.

MainePorsche

Sorry to read this unfortunate thing with such an engine.
Best wishes on making it right.

SMTCapeCod

Tough news, parts are not all that common, but can be found. Sometimes going to ebay.uk worked for me- rare euro bits here, are the common occurrence over there and depending on the exchange rate, can present a deal even with shipping, for small parts. Also, occasionally NOS valvetrain parts show up on Ebay.

I recall seeing quite a few threads where heads were found to be impacted by foreign objects, and oftentimes they were reused with replacement of affected valves and regular machining of the head.

You might luck out with the piston, and still have an intact bore..but that should be a motivating factor in my book. You mentioned machining the block....dubious talk there. Don't let any machine shop tell you about boring or honing.....I think you'd be looking at sleeving if anything- but realistically, if you can get the head off on that side to check the block, and if it is compromised you have a narrow window to score a block during the 928 Intl half off sale...and could go 5.0....

danglerb

Find a US 85/86 short block and have the pistons fly cut for Euro heads and build a Euro Hybrid. Chasing Euro parts isn't worth the trouble.

hlee96

Thank you all for the suggestions. I will try to get the heads off during the next 7-10 days and see what I am dealing with and still try to take advantage of 1/2 off if available.

Thanks!

hlee96

Heads are off and here's what I find.
Q1: What can I do to repair this? Heads and Piston#4.
Q2: A 85/86 short block can help with the lower end, but now that the heads are damaged too, any have any suggestions to what you would do?
Q3: Throttle body, intake, WUR, and Cams all seem ok, would these be worth anything?




Whoa! Merry Related Christmas to me





#4





Closer look





Offending part

rnixon

Ouch. That looks beyond saving the piston, rod and head. I'd also check the crankshaft after that sort of damage.

Adk46

I have a good imagination. I'm imagining a little weld build-up and some time with a Dremel tool with a burr bit. A new valve and valve seat. Crazy?

WallyP

If that is a crack at 9:00 on the intake, you need a valve.

I would consider checking and smoothing the head and piston, , and if all looks OK, running it...

hlee96

Wally, so it does not sound like all is lost? That's very good news for me. Would smoothing out the dents change the compression of this piston-head too much for the engine to run? What would be the symptoms?

Any recommendations to whom that would do this job?
-Hoi

Speedtoys

I'd...see if there is damage to the valve seat, and just clean up the cragly bits, and drive it.

Imo000

I would ask for a full refund from the Rennlister you bought the engine from. When this engine ran, it made one hell of a noise, no way the owner didn't know something was terribly wrong. By the looks of things, this engine didn't run long at all, maybe a few revolutions and then probably locked up. If you are keeping the engine, pull the piston and see if the connecting Rod is still straight.

The Deputy

I'd start off by dropping the piston out and check the cylinder, with an inside micrometer, in several spots actoss the bore to see if it is out of round. Hopefully, it wasn't ran long and there will be no damage in this respect. While piston is out I would check the rod for straightness and bearing for any type of damage (but wouldn't expect to find any).

Then, if the cylinder bore, rod and other connecting bits are okay...I'd look for a piston and rings, have the valve, valve guide and valve seat replaced and do a bit of dremel work on the head...then reassemble.

Granted, the other head would probably come off since you are this far into it.

Good luck,

Brian.