Seasonal Oil Change
10-24-2015, 06:49 AM
#16
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Location: Mostly in my workshop located in Sweden.
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Mike, I had the same problem with the old Volvo our winter car. The steel brackets holding the fuel tank were almost broken from corrosion. Fabricated new stainless steel brackets which is a huge improvement. I do not know anyone over here using their "fine" automobiles during the winter months.
An old Volvo or similar is the way to go.
Åke
An old Volvo or similar is the way to go.
Åke
10-24-2015, 11:45 AM
#17
It can be a bit tricky juggling 2 cars in Edinburgh city centre due to parking restrictions. I'm also not doing enough miles to really justify a second car. At the moment I walk to work so won't be doing too many winter miles this year. Also if I bought a second car I would probably end up with another porsche or a lotus or something. Really want a lotus Esprit but not sure it would make a good winter run around.
10-24-2015, 11:57 AM
#18
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we use 0w40 in the vehicles we drive in the winter including the Cayenne.
Its brutal on any vehicle starting them when the temps are -20c and below, yikes!
Its brutal on any vehicle starting them when the temps are -20c and below, yikes!
10-24-2015, 02:26 PM
#19
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I drive my S4 all year round but don't do enough miles to warrant changing oil seasonally so I use oil that is suitable all year around. At the moment that is millers 5w40. Started the car many time in sub zero temps and always get good oil pressure. I do however see hot oil pressure just under the 2 bar mark on the dash. I'm considering trying a 5w50 next change either millers cfc or valvoline vr1. Why not just use an oil that is good all year? What is the downside of a 5w50 vs 20w50? Surely it's the same viscosity when hot but better cold start protection.
As for salt on the roads. Yes that's a problem here in Scotland. I've replaced my fuel tank cradle which looked like it was about to rust out, fuel lines look suspect in places, suspension looks pretty rusty. I now spray everything under the car with Acf50 in the hope to slow down /prevent further rust.
As for salt on the roads. Yes that's a problem here in Scotland. I've replaced my fuel tank cradle which looked like it was about to rust out, fuel lines look suspect in places, suspension looks pretty rusty. I now spray everything under the car with Acf50 in the hope to slow down /prevent further rust.
10-24-2015, 03:37 PM
#20
oil preference sure brings 'em out of the woods. When I bought my 79 I asked the PO what oil he used in it.
He said Castrol. It had a little clicky problem and I changed it to valvoline 20-50 semi synthetic. -cleared right up. Been good since. I also store mine during the cold months but don't bother with an oil change. I make sure to drive it long enough before parking to cook the moisture out. I have too much machinery in my mini Leno's garage to be doing annual changes. I go by time intervals, including the airplane.
He said Castrol. It had a little clicky problem and I changed it to valvoline 20-50 semi synthetic. -cleared right up. Been good since. I also store mine during the cold months but don't bother with an oil change. I make sure to drive it long enough before parking to cook the moisture out. I have too much machinery in my mini Leno's garage to be doing annual changes. I go by time intervals, including the airplane.
10-24-2015, 11:10 PM
#21
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Bob, I'm sort of with you, but figure that for the cost of the oil change (~$40), it's better to just get any acid components out before hibernation. To each their own.
Pumpkin has a pretty high moisture content.
Pumpkin has a pretty high moisture content.
10-26-2015, 01:36 AM
#22
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Malcolm, other than the Cayenne, what vehicles are those, and what does does the Cayenne's Owner's Manual call for?