16V static engine timing
10-21-2015, 05:45 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
16V static engine timing
To complement the TB/WP change, I have replaced all front and rear cam seals and o-rings on my 81. To replace the o-rings on the left side cam gear I had to remove the distributor. I failed to mark anything (D'OH!) and now need to statically time the motor. I have the timing marks (crank and cams) lined up perfectly on TDC. I have set the distributor to a few degrees before TDC, I think, which means the rotor bug will is pointing past number 1 plug wire, hashmark on edge of dizzy housing, in the CW direction (see photo). AM I ON THE RIGHT TRACK HERE? I figure that if I am close I can always set to perfection with the timing light after I start it up.
10-21-2015, 08:38 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
You're on the right track. The cams line up at TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder #1 so the rotor will be pointing at that spark lug wire. Did you leave the wires on the cap?
10-21-2015, 09:02 PM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Glen! I suppose the only thing I need validation on is that if the engine is statically timed at, say, 8°btdc then the rotor bug should be pointing a few degrees after #1 when the crank is @TDC. Between 1 & 3 in other words. I pulled all wires and vacuum lines for replacement but getting the wires set up on the new cap is pretty straight forward.
10-21-2015, 10:09 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
The exact placement of the rotor will happen when you time the engine. The rotor goes around once for every 2 rotations of the crank so 8* BTDC is 4* of rotation at the rotor. But that doesn't make it spark; it's the Hall sensor inside. Get the rotor pointed at the wire and you'll be good for starting it up and timing it.
A tip for next time is to file a mark on the distributor where the rotor is pointing and on the adjustment flange where the bolt is. Line them up on assembly and it'll start right up.
A tip for next time is to file a mark on the distributor where the rotor is pointing and on the adjustment flange where the bolt is. Line them up on assembly and it'll start right up.
10-22-2015, 10:00 PM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I buttoned her up and started the engine... ran like crap! Put the timing light on it and was running at about 35 degrees advanced. I pulled all of the plug wires off, removed the cap and rotor, removed the right side top cam belt cover, cranked the engine to TDC and sure enough the rotor was almost pointing to number 3. Pulled the dizzy and reset the rotor on number 1 closed it all up and after a final tweak of the dizzy she was purring like a kitten. So all's well that ends well... the radiator is leaking from the ends : (