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We are talking about the boot at the distributor cap. Not at the plugs.
I was doing the plugs, rotors and distributor caps. Had to remove the wires, obviously. For whatever reason, plug 1 was almost impossible to remove. When I finally pulled it off, of course it came right off of the wire. The little threaded metal cap/connector remained inside the boot.
I have been unsuccessful in getting needle nose pliers in there to try to remove it from the boot in order to attempt to re-crimp back onto my plug wire. So I am looking for a solution. Either to purchase a new boot, plus the little connector to reattach to my plug wire. OR, to procure a new or very good used plug wire for cylinder number 1. It's a short one.
Interestingly, I pushed the plug wire back into the connector as far as it would go. By the dirt line on the wire, I can see that it went back very very close to all the way or all the way back on. I did that because I needed to start the car to move it. Anyway, it starts and purrs like a kitten. No vibration at all. I get the impression that it is actually doing it's job fine. I took it for a quick run and there is no way it is misfiring on that cylinder. So I must have good spark there.
But, I don't want to leave it like that.
Any ideas? Anyone with an extra plug wire (cylinder #1) that they want to sell?
An easy out should get the cap out of the connector.
You will not be able to reuse it as it is crimped just below the threads on the male section.
You'll have a couple of options:
1) Replace the wire, if you don't have the special crimp tools this will likely be the cheapest and quickest.
2) Get the proper crimp tools and an end and replace the end.
3) Try some of the methods described to replace the end without the proper crimp tools, including drilling the male and soldering.
Beru crimping tool costs top dollar and you can only buy the ends box 100 in U.K.I have some, and solder them on shoot me your address and i will post two for you to get you going .
I just ran into this - the cause was corrosion that destroyed the wire-to-crimped-end connection. My solution, arrived at accidentally, was to hacksaw the rubber hood where it changes diameter from the snug fitting end to the open section where the crimped terminal is free to rotate (is that clear?). That exposed the crimped fitting, which I removed by putting a 4-sided easy out into a vise and using that to unscrew the crimped terminal. Glad to try to give more (i.e. clearer) info.
Cameron,
Measure the wire and I will get Mr. Merlin to make one up for you special. He has my Beru crimp tool and the M3 ends.
Roger
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