Hood insulation install.
09-23-2003, 07:14 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Hood insulation install.
Re-affirmation of hood pad install.
1. Buy the pad/matierial from one of the Big Three.
I got mine from 928 INTL and it required very little trimming.
2. Get an old bed sheet and lay it over the engine compartment. Weigh it down to taste.
3. Buy one can of 3M high Strength 90 adhesive, tacks faster and stonger.
4.Laterally transfer a heavy duty plastic -Zytel- spatula from the kitchen to your toolbox - also works well for propping the fuse panel door up-.
Don't use the one or two, or three spatula's that the wife used to cook breakfast - when was that?- and left in the glowing pan. It will have rough edges and be semi- melted which may damage the new pad.
5. I left the hood on for this operation.
Scrape the dryed out pad matierial off of the hood. Some spots will come off adhesive and all, others won't. I used a sticker/label remover which works well but you'd need a gallon of the stuff. In any case, as those who have done this before have stated: Get off the the insulation and loose
( hanging glue ), don't sweat the small stuff as the new glue and pad hide all with no bumps or bagging.
6. Practice with the spray glue as the nozzle can be your friend or enemy.
Work from edges in, overlap on hood from back -windshield side-till you cover about 3 inches above strut mount points . Then spray the smooth side of the pad. Wait till the pad starts tacking well, apply from the lower-windshield side of the hood. Try to push it under the lip -use that spatula again- . I just pushed the pad tight on the back lip and the drivers side long lip for a snug fit and kept working toward the front, spraying as I went.
Tucked and or razor trimmed and tucked then used the spatula to force the edge flat under the lip.
Don't forget to smooth the pad with your hand as you go. This assures complete pad tacking.
With clean-up and a smoke it took 1 hour and 11 minutes working alone in the fading light and the Texas wind.
Tune in tomorrow when Fausto Pizonya Fugknuckles writes about the tragic similarity of a spray bottle of Orange De-greaser and it's twin, Pledge
Orange Furniture Polish when used in the engine bay
1. Buy the pad/matierial from one of the Big Three.
I got mine from 928 INTL and it required very little trimming.
2. Get an old bed sheet and lay it over the engine compartment. Weigh it down to taste.
3. Buy one can of 3M high Strength 90 adhesive, tacks faster and stonger.
4.Laterally transfer a heavy duty plastic -Zytel- spatula from the kitchen to your toolbox - also works well for propping the fuse panel door up-.
Don't use the one or two, or three spatula's that the wife used to cook breakfast - when was that?- and left in the glowing pan. It will have rough edges and be semi- melted which may damage the new pad.
5. I left the hood on for this operation.
Scrape the dryed out pad matierial off of the hood. Some spots will come off adhesive and all, others won't. I used a sticker/label remover which works well but you'd need a gallon of the stuff. In any case, as those who have done this before have stated: Get off the the insulation and loose
( hanging glue ), don't sweat the small stuff as the new glue and pad hide all with no bumps or bagging.
6. Practice with the spray glue as the nozzle can be your friend or enemy.
Work from edges in, overlap on hood from back -windshield side-till you cover about 3 inches above strut mount points . Then spray the smooth side of the pad. Wait till the pad starts tacking well, apply from the lower-windshield side of the hood. Try to push it under the lip -use that spatula again- . I just pushed the pad tight on the back lip and the drivers side long lip for a snug fit and kept working toward the front, spraying as I went.
Tucked and or razor trimmed and tucked then used the spatula to force the edge flat under the lip.
Don't forget to smooth the pad with your hand as you go. This assures complete pad tacking.
With clean-up and a smoke it took 1 hour and 11 minutes working alone in the fading light and the Texas wind.
Tune in tomorrow when Fausto Pizonya Fugknuckles writes about the tragic similarity of a spray bottle of Orange De-greaser and it's twin, Pledge
Orange Furniture Polish when used in the engine bay
Last edited by John Struthers; 09-23-2003 at 08:51 AM.
09-23-2003, 10:41 AM
#2
Supercharged
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John-
Just in case...
I did this one last year. Pretty much did exactly what you did. But I found that the Super 90 3M stuff aint that super. After a couple of extended runs where the engin got completely warm, the heat from the engin losened up that adhesive and the pad began to droop. I dicked around with it for about a year, then I bought some couter top adhesive (roll/brush on) from Home Depot. Hasn't moved since. Have fun!
Just in case...
I did this one last year. Pretty much did exactly what you did. But I found that the Super 90 3M stuff aint that super. After a couple of extended runs where the engin got completely warm, the heat from the engin losened up that adhesive and the pad began to droop. I dicked around with it for about a year, then I bought some couter top adhesive (roll/brush on) from Home Depot. Hasn't moved since. Have fun!
09-23-2003, 01:20 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Hi John,
How’s it look now?
I would add PrepAll as a last wipe solvent to assure good adhesion. There is also an adhesive remover that can be used for cleanup. I have had no sags for about 2 years now. Here is what I did:
HOOD LINER PREPARATION & REPLACEMENT:
I did the initial hood prep with the hood on the car. When it gets to the step of prepping with KleanStrip PrepAll, Remove the hood. Overspray and poor adhesion can result from working with the hood overhead. You have practically no overspray when you work with the hood off.
Preparation is everything. Applying adhesive or paint is potentially the simplest part of the job. Cleaning, masking, and final prep are essential. Touch-up paint, clean, and wax the hood ribs before you install the liner. I used 3M Super 77 adhesive on my 928 International supplied OEM? – who knows - hood liner. After 8 months, it looks as fantastic as anything I have ever done with restoration – no sags! In preparation, I vacuumed off the old liner residue. I cleaned the heck out of the hood at the self service car wash with a high pressure wand. I washed and rinsed several times. However, now that I have painted the intake, I don’t get water under the hood.
I removed the hood. I vacuumed all loose residue out of there, and thoroughly cleaned that inside surface with KleanStrip PrepAll. ( It removes wax, etc.) I set the liner in place, and very, very carefully trimmed the liner, flaring the edges to fit under the lip multiple times. When I was totally satisfied with the way the liner sat in the hood, I sprayed the adhesive on the hood and liner in 6” strips. Let the adhesive tack before rubbing surfaces together. I very carefully placed the trailing edge of the liner in its adhesive prepped place. I kept the liner rolled back until I shot the next 6” of adhesive mainly on the hood, and some on the liner. I carefully monitored the orientation. I then rolled the liner forward a few inches. I then repeated the adhesive process until I rolled the liner to the front. I also trimmed some more as the liner rolled forward. Use 3M adhesive remover (or cleaner) or Turpentine for clean-up.
How’s it look now?
I would add PrepAll as a last wipe solvent to assure good adhesion. There is also an adhesive remover that can be used for cleanup. I have had no sags for about 2 years now. Here is what I did:
HOOD LINER PREPARATION & REPLACEMENT:
I did the initial hood prep with the hood on the car. When it gets to the step of prepping with KleanStrip PrepAll, Remove the hood. Overspray and poor adhesion can result from working with the hood overhead. You have practically no overspray when you work with the hood off.
Preparation is everything. Applying adhesive or paint is potentially the simplest part of the job. Cleaning, masking, and final prep are essential. Touch-up paint, clean, and wax the hood ribs before you install the liner. I used 3M Super 77 adhesive on my 928 International supplied OEM? – who knows - hood liner. After 8 months, it looks as fantastic as anything I have ever done with restoration – no sags! In preparation, I vacuumed off the old liner residue. I cleaned the heck out of the hood at the self service car wash with a high pressure wand. I washed and rinsed several times. However, now that I have painted the intake, I don’t get water under the hood.
I removed the hood. I vacuumed all loose residue out of there, and thoroughly cleaned that inside surface with KleanStrip PrepAll. ( It removes wax, etc.) I set the liner in place, and very, very carefully trimmed the liner, flaring the edges to fit under the lip multiple times. When I was totally satisfied with the way the liner sat in the hood, I sprayed the adhesive on the hood and liner in 6” strips. Let the adhesive tack before rubbing surfaces together. I very carefully placed the trailing edge of the liner in its adhesive prepped place. I kept the liner rolled back until I shot the next 6” of adhesive mainly on the hood, and some on the liner. I carefully monitored the orientation. I then rolled the liner forward a few inches. I then repeated the adhesive process until I rolled the liner to the front. I also trimmed some more as the liner rolled forward. Use 3M adhesive remover (or cleaner) or Turpentine for clean-up.
