L_perm

I'm in the final stages of unhooking the engine for removal from my '91 S4 and have a few questions. I'm following the WSM, as well as advice I've read in some threads here.

- How big of a deal is shoving the tranny backward? Are those two bolts hard to get to? Is moving it backward hard? Is getting it back in place upon re-installation of the engine hard? (I ask because it doesn't look that difficult, but I've read where others recommend not doing it, given that it is not needed.)

- Do you guys remove the radiator, tranny and oil coolers? I've been thinking I would just unhook the oil lines at the engine and replace those and the tranny cooler lines once the engine is out.

- I currently have my PS pump hanging--as I plan to have my A/C compressor also. With the alternator removed, is there any reason why I can't leave the PS pump hanging and not have to deal with draining until after the engine is out? (The reservoir seems enough out of the way.)

- I'm leaving the top (FI) harness in the bay--not pulling through the firewall. Is there anything I should look out for?

Thanks,
Louis

Daniel5691

Hi Louis!

Sounds like you are cranking right along on this job! I can only share my very limited experience, but hopefully I can give you a n00b's-eye view ha ha.
The 2 pinch bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear of the engine are not super-hard to loosen, but they are stout. I removed the lower bellhousing cover and I also had to lower the exhaust slightly to get access to the pinch bolts. The actual drive shaft slid backwards almost effortlessly after the bolts were loose.







I did go ahead and remove my radiator, fans, etc, because I wanted as much free space as possible. I've pulled engines from other cars, this was my first 928 pull, and I just wanted every possible inch of space. I think it was worth the extra effort to get the radiator out, but I don't think it's a must. Oh I do need to tell you THE MOST IMPORTANT piece of gear for my actual pull was an "engine leveler" which attaches to your engine crane.

Hope this helps?

Dan

L_perm

Thanks Dan. I do have a load leveler for the hoist.

I think you have one more pinch bolt than I do, apparently because you have the manual tranny. I have one pinch bolt on a clamp that is bolted to a "flex plate." I unbolt the flex plate and the pinch bolt clamp and slide both back in one piece. We autobox guys are very familiar with the pinch bolt due to the thrust bearing failure (TBF) issue.

I think I'm going to remove the radiator. Doesn't look too hard.

jeff spahn

There is a rear bolt on automatics as well as manuals. Take out the radiator and Trans cooler for more space. Let the ps pump and ac hang (support them). Watch the wiring harness bolted to crossmember. Many forget that (on drivers side. Uses 10mm wrench.
Pull the harness with a helper. It sucks alone. Getting the rear upper bell housing bolts is a pain. A long ratcheting flex head wrench is a plus.
Change your motor mounts when out. Change your power steering reservoir/filter. Change all rubber lines in engine bay, cooling, ps, fuel etc. change coolant overflow tank. Change all gaskets on engine. Change all rubber bits on engine as well as all sensors. Clean and Deoxit all grounds in bay as well as on engine.
That's about it. Took me about 5 hours to get engine out alone and 3-4 to put back in.

L_perm

Thanks Jeff. I've got just about all of that on my menu, including head gaskets and anything valve related, if needed.

The reservoirs are the only thing I hadn't seriously considered. I guess maybe I should. The only sensors I don't have on my list are: IAT and the two exhaust temp sensors. I'll probably replace the latter to be thorough.

I do have some long ratcheting options to try on the upper bolts.

Did you move the tranny back?

Also, isn't our second pinch bolt in the rear, at the transaxle? The manual appears to have two shafts clamped together up front, with a clamp that pinches on both ends.

hwyengr

You do want to slide the transmission back, there are pins in the bell housing that support the assembly after the bolts are removed. So either the transmission goes back or the engine goes forward, and there isn't that much room forward.

Someone posted a trick here that makes the upper bell bolts super easy. Use a standard 19mm box wrench and a 3/4" breaker bar. The breaker bar fits perfectly in the open jaw of the wrench, giving a really nice lever arm for those 80ft-lb bolts.

RennPartsDirect

I just pulled the engine out of my '83 this weekend. Getting the engine around the engine mounts was the biggest pain- we ended up dropping the front crossmember and disconnecting the steering rack from the input column shaft. The four bolts holding the bell housing to the torque tube were also a pain but you don't have a manual so that shouldn't be an issue. I've never removed an engine before so this was my first time around the block. Probably removed more than I needed to but with the help of a friend it was out in four hours or so along with everything else missing from the front end. Good luck!

L_perm

Thanks Hwy. I'm hoping my 17" SK 1/2" drive flex head ratchet will work. But, I do have a 3/4" breaker bar, if needed.

That's quite a picture! I'm specifically trying to avoid removing the cross member. A small part of why I'm pulling the engine is to get to the engine mounts easily.