Resistor at CE panel for LED's?
10-04-2015, 02:53 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Resistor at CE panel for LED's?
Hi guys,
I was contemplating adding LED brake lights. Can I add a parallel resistor by tapping into the lead at the fuse panel and bridging to a ground? This might be pretty convenient. If doable, what size and resistance should I use?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
I was contemplating adding LED brake lights. Can I add a parallel resistor by tapping into the lead at the fuse panel and bridging to a ground? This might be pretty convenient. If doable, what size and resistance should I use?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
10-04-2015, 04:05 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Does my 84 have a bulb control unit?
Thanks,
Dave
Oops. Answering my own question, there is a lamp control unit. Just an idea.
Thanks,
Dave
Oops. Answering my own question, there is a lamp control unit. Just an idea.
10-04-2015, 07:36 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
There's a write-up here somewhere about how to defeat the bulb warning module. Requires opening the multi-pin connector to the module, removing one pin from the plug and insulating it before closing the plug body and re-connecting it to the module.
Mike
Mike
10-04-2015, 07:45 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Dave, Compared the incandescent to the Superbright LED's (rear only) on the 80 and 94. Liked the way they looked/performed on the 94 but not ON the 80.02 T
Last edited by 77tony; 10-05-2015 at 05:01 PM.
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10-05-2015, 12:31 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Hi to do the LED's for Stop, Tail & side just remove the connector on the lamp controller located as said its attached to the Right Parcel tray (on an 85 up its above the ECU's).
Once disconnected make up some jumpers that fit into the Female pins (i use thick stranded wire) and jump the supply source to the destination connections(bulbs). Use a good brand of electrical tape and seal your work by wrapping the connector.
You could also source the Male Pins and make real jumpers.
Note: some jumpers will be one to two (as in the Brake lights), the signal comes from the brake peddle and feeds Both Left and right and third if you have it.
Pin outs are not the same for all years as different Lamps were monitored as time went on.
You will loose the Lamp warning, but adding a resistors really defeats the advantage of using LED's for less electrical load on the cars system.
Once disconnected make up some jumpers that fit into the Female pins (i use thick stranded wire) and jump the supply source to the destination connections(bulbs). Use a good brand of electrical tape and seal your work by wrapping the connector.
You could also source the Male Pins and make real jumpers.
Note: some jumpers will be one to two (as in the Brake lights), the signal comes from the brake peddle and feeds Both Left and right and third if you have it.
Pin outs are not the same for all years as different Lamps were monitored as time went on.
You will loose the Lamp warning, but adding a resistors really defeats the advantage of using LED's for less electrical load on the cars system.
10-05-2015, 12:35 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
If they are the 24 SMT's than they wont be bright enough for Stop and Turn, but they do work well for Running lights.
I've been running the 45's and others that follow me say they work great in direct sunlight on my 85/86's
Dave K
10-05-2015, 01:27 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If you look on the superbrite site, they list lumens of output. The number of LED's does not really correlate to brightness. Not sure how they perform in the reflector/enclosure assembly.
Dave
Dave
10-05-2015, 01:40 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Actually it does in this case, the 45 SMT's are really bright compared to the 24's.
I know I've been using them for years on two of my cars, however with newer LED tech this is a moving target to hit. In general the SMT's like the ones for the interior are brighter than the non surface mount LED.
I have some LED's (like H3's) that I never installed as the brightness just wasn't what I was looking for, that superbright site seems pretty good on their descriptions and Lumens.
Recently I've done their H4's for Head light and couldn't be happier.
Dave
Edit: when I do the tail lamps I Repaint the reflectors in chrome if they need it, some start to get black inside as the original coating is gone.
I know I've been using them for years on two of my cars, however with newer LED tech this is a moving target to hit. In general the SMT's like the ones for the interior are brighter than the non surface mount LED.
I have some LED's (like H3's) that I never installed as the brightness just wasn't what I was looking for, that superbright site seems pretty good on their descriptions and Lumens.
Recently I've done their H4's for Head light and couldn't be happier.
Dave
Edit: when I do the tail lamps I Repaint the reflectors in chrome if they need it, some start to get black inside as the original coating is gone.
10-05-2015, 01:50 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi to do the LED's for Stop, Tail & side just remove the connector on the lamp controller located as said its attached to the Right Parcel tray (on an 85 up its above the ECU's).
Once disconnected make up some jumpers that fit into the Female pins (i use thick stranded wire) and jump the supply source to the destination connections(bulbs). Use a good brand of electrical tape and seal your work by wrapping the connector.
You could also source the Male Pins and make real jumpers.
Note: some jumpers will be one to two (as in the Brake lights), the signal comes from the brake peddle and feeds Both Left and right and third if you have it.
Pin outs are not the same for all years as different Lamps were monitored as time went on.
You will loose the Lamp warning, but adding a resistors really defeats the advantage of using LED's for less electrical load on the cars system.
Once disconnected make up some jumpers that fit into the Female pins (i use thick stranded wire) and jump the supply source to the destination connections(bulbs). Use a good brand of electrical tape and seal your work by wrapping the connector.
You could also source the Male Pins and make real jumpers.
Note: some jumpers will be one to two (as in the Brake lights), the signal comes from the brake peddle and feeds Both Left and right and third if you have it.
Pin outs are not the same for all years as different Lamps were monitored as time went on.
You will loose the Lamp warning, but adding a resistors really defeats the advantage of using LED's for less electrical load on the cars system.
Just so I understand, for brake lights, on my light ECU pin 2 is input and pins 9 and 12 are output. I just jumper 2 to 9+12 and completely bypass the ECU for those lights. That will eliminate warning light and avoid load resistors. Did I get it right?
Thanks very much,
Dave
10-05-2015, 02:20 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
I had to look at an 84 wiring diag, pins 9 & 12 look correct to go directly the stop lamps.
For pin 2 I run a wire directly from the Brake Light peddle switch, else I've found the "warning computer" will still trigger a light on the dash (the warning computer is not the Lamp Controller, its under the dead peddle).
This has to do with the Brake Light "test" when you first start the car, if the 84 has that?
You can test this buy injecting (fused) 12v to pin 12 and then to pin 9 and see the lights light, if you have the LED's installed then just use a 9volt transistor battery.
As for pin 2 place a Volt meter positive lead on pin 2 and ground to ground and you should see 12v when the brake is depressed.
For pin 2 I run a wire directly from the Brake Light peddle switch, else I've found the "warning computer" will still trigger a light on the dash (the warning computer is not the Lamp Controller, its under the dead peddle).
This has to do with the Brake Light "test" when you first start the car, if the 84 has that?
You can test this buy injecting (fused) 12v to pin 12 and then to pin 9 and see the lights light, if you have the LED's installed then just use a 9volt transistor battery.
As for pin 2 place a Volt meter positive lead on pin 2 and ground to ground and you should see 12v when the brake is depressed.
10-05-2015, 04:54 PM
#15
Rennlist Member