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i know what you mean. to a lesser extent of course! i went with cheaper efi fuel lines and replacing stuff as needed. i really had to stop myself from going over the edge with wyait stuff. And my idle was always a little off but i thought my power was good. with the condition of my ignition system, vacuum leaks, the cps wiring was a mess, etc, Im really excited about starting her up for the "first" time!
Leaking spark plug seals in three cylinders leading to semi fouled plugs (for some reason I never caught the oil in the tubes and thought I had bad valve stem seals)
Completely torn valve cover breather hose
Oil fouled TPS and crumbled harness
My MAF has never been seated correctly in the air guide, for some reason the air guide o ring is super tight and even after I removed everything from the car it took a lot of effort to get it inserted correctly (MAF being replaced.) I would feel really bad about this, but even Bill Ball thought that even though it didn't feel right it was probably seated correctly.
Green junk in the coil wires
Rub through on a few plug wires
During my TB/WP job it was discovered I had non-Bosch cap and rotors (replaced with correct part)
So yes I'm very excited to get things put back together, hope I'm not disappointed! I'll also spring for Porken chips but want to see how things run beforehand so I can get a good A/B comparison.
While I continue to wait for the powder coater I am attempting the fan clutch refill but don't see a full description of the job in search. So stupid question: How does the cover plate come off? Just pop it off with a screwdriver?
Just got the parts back from the powder coater and they did a great job but I when I picked them up I missed the fact that the hose mating surfaces or the plenums got taped off and are just bare metal (not even primer on them) but the runners got coated in the same spot. The T is also powdered completely and looking at pictures from Scott Yoo and others it appears these sections are totally covered by the couplers when new (mine were pretty curled in that spot when I remoed them. Opinions on whether I should send them back to be re-powdered in these areas? Any complications from just shooting them in that spot?
Just got the parts back from the powder coater and they did a great job but I when I picked them up I missed the fact that the hose mating surfaces or the plenums got taped off and are just bare metal (not even primer on them) but the runners got coated in the same spot. The T is also powdered completely and looking at pictures from Scott Yoo and others it appears these sections are totally covered by the couplers when new (mine were pretty curled in that spot when I remoed them. Opinions on whether I should send them back to be re-powdered in these areas? Any complications from just shooting them in that spot?
At the very least id get some money back. maybe they can do something about it? im not sure powdercoat is prone to chipping or flaking like paint would be with an edge like that but you still might have some bare mag showing.
Heres mine. im debating about whether to sand the raised letters to bare metal and then clearing with a high temp clear.
I decided to leave it as is. For those with 85-86 intakes that go the powder coating route, please take the admonition to thoroughly wash the parts in the bathtub multiple times seriously. The plenums have a lot of nooks and crannies for blast media to hide, I washed them four separate times and it wasn't until I literally squeezed my hand into the driver's side that I was able to find where it was hiding and was able to get a brush on the areas where the media had accumulated. I'm traveling this week and will give them one more pass in the tub prior to assembly this weekend.
I'm just going to paint the areas they masked off with heat proof engine paint. For the TB T pipe I painted the space blue. It will look ok when it's back together.
Yeah, interestingly my T wasn't masked, nor were the runners, only the plenums got that treatment. The bare areas on the plenum are covered by the couplers so I'm not going to touch them other than roughing them up a bit with sandpaper prior to reassembly.
Back in town attempting to start re-assembly but continue to discover little gotcha - Here are the valve cover bolts and washers for the driver's side cam cover - I have only 9 of the thick original washers, it looks like the last time someone had the cover off they used just the updated sealing washer on three of the bolts. I assume this is incorrect and I need both the thick washer and the sealing washer on all bolts, is that a correct assumption?
09-12-2015, 01:07 AM
since been remedied.
