Jeff_Wolf

Hello All,

I'm new, but have been reading and lurking for about a month and half now. I purchased a 1982 928 Manual out of Saint Albans, VT about 7 weeks ago now. The body is in nice shape with no rust. It does need some TLC in some areas, (Especially the interior) but body and engine wise she is in very nice condition. The car has 162K but aside from the interior it does not show it.

The largest problem, and the issue that makes sense to address first is the shifting issue that the vehicle has which I would love some input on as I am just about at the end of my common sense approach and what I have read online.

First off, the "neutral" position for the shift **** is biased very far to the right and sits between gears 4 and 5. With the car off, I can pull the shifter all the way over and engage gears R, 1, and 2. But I cannot "find" gears 3, 4 or 5. Whether this plays into the next issue or not I am not sure.

With the car running and at a stand still I cannot shift into any gear without a significant amount of grinding. I can jam it into R, 1st and 2nd and it will go in, but this is obviously not functioning properly.

With the car running and moving, I can start in 1st, get up to speed and shift up through the gears with no problem, finding every gear along the way with no grinding. I can downshift all the way to second gear, but not to first, even at speeds low enough to warrant going back into 1st. (Does anyone know if there is a speed based lockout for 1st gear?)

Now, things I have already done:

I bled the entire clutch system with a power bleeder. During this I found that the slave cylinder pushrod had detached from the cylinder and air was returning into the slave cylinder. I have since replaced the slave cylinder and re-bled the system.

Now my bell housing has already had the recommended inspection hole cut into it, and I can see clearly that when actuated the clutch is pushing the slave cylinder pushrod as far back as the bell housing will allow so I believe that the hydraulic system is bled properly.

Having read quite a bit, I took the bell housing off and made sure that when the clutch was actuated that the dual clutch discs were in fact separating from the intermediate plate. I confirmed that this was indeed happening. I was able to observe the discs spinning freely with the clutch engaged via prybar.

I also read that some had luck with prying the intermediate plate back and that it would adjust itself forward to its proper position. I'm a little fuzzy on this I will admit but I did pry the plate towards the back of the car and watched it move with the "H" plates however as soon as I disengaged the clutch the entire pack pushed the intermediate plate back to where it had started. Am I doing this wrong or are the rivets in the "H" pieces shot?

One more thing, with the car running and up in the air, I wanted to see if when I pushed the clutch in the torque tube would stop spinning. When the clutch is pushed in, the torque tube does not stop spinning or even change speed. I can observe this by popping out the rubber inspection grommet as the beginning of the transmission. Is this correct? I don't believe so but I could be wrong. The torque tube should stop spinning I would think? If it should stop spinning, where does this leave me?

Has anyone dealt with this problem before and fixed it? If so I would love to hear from you.

Thanks,

Jeff

Ducman82

Correct the TT should stop spinning with the clutch in. Check the rear shift coupler bushings as well. Sounds to me like they may be shot. There is a write up on her some were about "resetting" the linkage after you remove it. Something about getting the trans in to 4th then have a helper hold the shifter (coupler loose) in the 4th hear position, while you tighten the coupler to the shift linkage at the transmission.

fraggle

+1 check the shift coupler at the back. The bushings fail at a regular rate due to age. That should help the shift gate issues. it is a fast and cheap fix.

The dual clutch is tricky to adjust correctly.

Fsharp9

Gear lever sits in the 4-5 plane on 78 to 84 cars

tlister67

There is descrition in the wsm on adjusting the shifter coupler. I left the shifter centered and while tightening the clamp bolt rotated the coupler to the left. There is picture in the wsm. This worked for me.

As far as the clutch, you can read my similar issue. Although you might be seeing the clutches disengage are you simulating the travel? For me after adjusting the problem appears to be gone.

Jeff_Wolf

Does it really? It seems awfully out of place?

Jeff_Wolf

On the clutch issue, I did not measure and match up the distance the slave cylinder pushrod pushes the release arm and then only move the arm that amount when prying. With that said, the pushrod is moving as far as it can because the bottom of the release arm is contacting the rear of the bell housing. So if I am getting full travel from the pushrod and the release arm is traveling as far as it can mechanically travel given the bell housing, where does that leave me? New clutch pack?

Jeff_Wolf

With clutch drag, I see lots of references to the WSM procedure on adjusting the intermediate plate. Can someone tell me what page this is on in the WSM? I cannot find it.

tlister67

The wsm shows a diagram and some gap values. It has been a subject of heated debate and suggest seeking out info through a search. I think those values assumed a new intermediate plate. The shark skin site has excellent description and pics. I was able to get mine working well by adjusting to a 1mm gap. Adjusted all the way back on mine produced a 2mm gap. Do some reading and good luck.

AirtekHVAC

First things first, look into the rear shift coupling, as others have said, then the front shift ball cup. Then attack the more difficult tasks. The coupling and ball cup cause most of the initial problems.

tlister67

The clutch adjustment is on:
Manual 2
Section 30
Page 6a

Fogey1

The synchronicities of thread appearances in the forum always amazes me. You may wish to take a look at this antique thread that popped up today:

Shift linkage-joints, how to access??
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...to-access.html