tv

The missing link;
Here's what i don't get. According to all posts i have seen the only safe place to jack or rest the car on is the actual jack point. So if you jack up the car on the jack point, how the hell do you get the stand under the jack point, call david copperfield?

You guys with the wooden blocks, do you put those under the tires?
Tom

1985 928s2 euro

Cobey

From what I understand, if you want to say, hold up the front, jack up the rear really high and slide the stand under the front when it is off the ground enough. I am rather non-plussed with this method. Another reason I am thinking of getting/making ramps.

Mark

I have ramps and jack stands. I use different ones for different tasks.
OBVIOUSLY - ramps are no good for anything having to do with removing the tires, but great for oil changes.

My METHOD OF CHOICE for working under the car, now...I had looked at those drive on and tilt ramps (~$800), considered buying a used hydralic 2 or 4 post rack ($1500+ used)...I bought a drive on car trailer that is open between the tire tracks. It is tall enuff that I can roll right under the trailer on the creeper. Makes under car work a breeze! Cost me $1200.

I now use it going to AX/DE...just in case I break something - and I don't have to play 'organized pack-rat' to get all the tools, chairs and spares I need in the car...I just throw it in the back of the truck. For events on a hot day - I have an 8'x8' pop up shade canopy. I straddle the trailer with it and set the chairs on the trailer for a great viewing venue. I even have an invertor running a big floor fan, if it gets really hot. At the last AX, it ended up serving as an unofficial PCA gathering spot!

I pull it with a V-6 Explorer Sport Trac (1/2 pickup, 1/2 SUV). I have no problem exceeding the interstate speed limit. Bringing the project car back from TX, I got over 14 mpg and ran 75-80 the whole way!

YMMV!

John Struthers

tv,
Shirley you jest.
My names not Shirley....

Wooden blocks ?
Ramps!
1 board, 10" width, 2" thick, 8 foot long.
Cut a 45 degree angle about 40 inches back from the square end, this is the bottom board.
Flip the board so backside of 45 degree angle is oriented (inclined up) and cut at 30 inches, this is second board.
Cut a 45 degree on this remaining board.
Place the squared ends one on top of the other -flush-.
The distance from the edge of the taper -45*- 0n the 1st board to the taper -45*- on the second board is about 12 inches.
The taper -45*- on the third board should be about 6 inches.
When they are stacked you can see how the ramp will look you can modify the length of each level by cutting the squared ends to suit your taste.
I settled on the 12" 'run' on the first board because any less and the 'bump-up' to the second board might cause spoiler scraping, any more and the ramp can wiggle when you hit the second board.
You can cut to any length, really... as long as you have room on both sides of the top board to place your wedge blocks for the tires.
This was an Idea someone else posted and I used.
You can change the 45 degree cut to something with a longer taper and the board length for each board itself. But keep in mind the longer you go the heavier the ramp will be, and you are 'TRYING' to keep all three boards within the 8 foot overall board length, O.K.?
If you go shorter the ramps will probably "push away" as you drive up on them.
Use wood or drywall screws to attach second board to first board then third board to second board.
If this sounds complicated...cut a 42 inch board off the 8 footer, than cut a 30 inch board off the remaining 54 inches, make a 45 degree cut on one end of each board and stack them screw them together on board at a time.
easy!

Cobey

Got pictures?

Mark

from jorj7's site

From eds928s@erols.com (9/30/99)
I made a set of ramps from 2"x10"x96" boards. I cut them to creat a ramped that allows the car to be driven up the ramp without affecting the front spoiler, and it ends up 4.5" off the garage floor. I hope the following illustration helps to show what I did.

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I cut the 96" board into 3', 2' and 1' sections and cut one end of each section at 45 degrees. I nailed the boards as shown above. The cut the remaining piece to fit as a stop, and nailed it to the high end. It may not be elegant, but it works great for oil changes and suspension tweeking that require the wheels to be loaded. Also, the belly pans can be easily accessed and removed while on the ramps.
Merry motoring. Ed

Steve J.

Jack up the rear of the car by lifting under the center of the rear crossmember below the transmission - then place stands or blocks under the two rear jack points. For the front, use two jacks and two large pieces of wood (so you don't bend the frame rails) just behind the lift points. Raise the front of the car and place stands under the lift points. Now you have the car up in the air and supported at the four lift points. The balance when supported at the four jack points is pretty amazing. Once, I had two jacks under the front lift points and blocks under the rear lift points. One of the front jacks lost pressure and collapsed, leaving the car supported by two diagonal points. I could push on the front fender with one finger and rock the car like a see-saw! Also, the doors would open and close no problem - the body is pretty stiff!

Cobey

Thanks Mark! Going to have to see which method is most cost effective.

Gregg K

First you get a chainsaw. Then you find some big blocks o wood. Saw, then drive up onto them.
Simple, easy and cheap.

Cobey

Love those white phonedials. It came that way, did it not? Are you going to two tone the inside as well (white/black).

Gregg K

The interior is BLACK. I'm just keeping it the way it came. I bought it from a friend who owned a body shop in Palo Alto. He did a pretty nice job on the body as well as the wheels. The seats are out of a fairly late model 911. There are some odds and ends, but overall I'm pleased with it as it is.

WallyP

If you have problems with the ramps scooting away when you try to drive on, attach a foot-long piece of canvas or other heavy durable fabric to the end of the ramps, so that the front wheel is on the fabric when it hits the incline.

It is a good idea to have a substantial stop on the end of the ramp to prevent over-run, and a smaller hump (3/4" - 1") at the back of the tire. That allows the car to settle in, telling you that you are on the ramp properly, and also helping to prevent movement while you are working on the car.

If you are building the ramps out of two-by planks as suggested, it is a good idea to have the lowest plank extend a couple of inches longer than the top ones at the straight end. It is a BAD feeling to have the ramps tilt up if you have to brake sharply to keep from going over the stop.

DoubleNutz

stick with stability...jack it up and put it on stands

GlenL

Ramps schmamps...

I'll show you all at the "Jack Off"

Bring your diapers, girlies.

John Struthers

The only known advantage to the jack( off). Figure it out, woodya?
Though are ramps are much faster to deploy/employ and just as stable as a jack (off) Even the most ardent ramp users-myself included- must admit to a minor problem with removing the wheels while the tires are sitting on the ramps.
Some of us die-hard ramp loyalist's are forming a committee to solve this problem
I'll keep ya'll posted.