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Go through all of the diagnostics I have provided above and report your results. Also, clean your grounds regardless of what your multimeter shows you in the way of resistance. This pertains to all of your grounds. Not just those that provide grounds for the L-jet.
Not much about your situation with your car is making sense yet and we need to know more at this point.
Are you aware of the thermo time switch? Is it plugged in?
Sometime soon after you get it going, I would strongly suggest replacing those fuel hoses.
Yes it's plugged in, cleanest connectors of them Just went thru the grounds again. Will measure the resistance to those this evening.
I will say that when it starts it rumbles longer than it was before it dies. Still no noid light activity.
I take that back, the ground on the drivers side is unchecked, and an important one. I was trying to avoid pulling the pod and cluster but it looks I'll have to do that.
Timing has nothing to do with injector pulse. Please follow the diagnostics from the WSM. You have already verified grounds pertinent to the L-jet. Get your numbers together and report back.
As far as the car killing you goes.. It will do a lot more of that if you don't make educated advances in your effort to resuscitate it. Start throwing parts at it and taking shots in the dark and you'll begin a long journey of frustration.
I'm limited in the way I can help to your willing effort to follow the diagnostics provided.
Timing has nothing to do with injector pulse. Please follow the diagnostics from the WSM. You have already verified grounds pertinent to the L-jet. Get your numbers together and report back.
As far as the car killing you goes.. It will do a lot more of that if you don't make educated advances in your effort to resuscitate it. Start throwing parts at it and taking shots in the dark and you'll begin a long journey of frustration.
I'm limited in the way I can help to your willing effort to follow the diagnostics provided.
Let's get this shark breathing!
I can't thank you enough for sticking with me this far. I fully intend to report all the numbers back to you. I'm new at 928's, and a novice and understanding resistance and measuring it. I get it, just not that confident that I'm doing it correctly. How do you measure ground with two leads from a multimeter? Some of the suggestions and great advice from other 928 owners left me Google searching more info about what they advised! I'm a fast study and relentless so I'm confident with the help and support of guys like you I'll get it running soon.
And to tell you the truth, a couple ground points are escaping me, one of the rear ones, which is supposed to be forward and under a plastic cover - I found nothing there.
I may record some measurements later tonight, watching my Golden State Warriors try to win a game!
Thanks again Kiln_Red, if we get this puppy running, I'll name a set of new fuel lines after you!
And to tell you the truth, a couple ground points are escaping me, one of the rear ones, which is supposed to be forward and under a plastic cover - I found nothing there.
Mine was behind the rear panel, passenger/R side. Need to pull it back a bit and you'll see the bundle of grounds.
sorry but this is simply painful...... STOP trying to FIX stuff and check out the brain ....more often than not in "fixing things" people create more problems than they solve !!! Like pulling the C E board...in nearly 20 years with my 1980 I NEVER needed to pull and clean it....NEVER ... changed a couple relays but ONLY when they failed...
sorry but this is simply painful...... STOP trying to FIX stuff and check out the brain ....more often than not in "fixing things" people create more problems than they solve !!! Like pulling the C E board...in nearly 20 years with my 1980 I NEVER needed to pull and clean it....NEVER ... changed a couple relays but ONLY when they failed...
I understand that James, I do. Brain or not, there's another problem that does exist, and did get identified by this painstaking process: the afc relay does not get 12V to pin 87 with the ignition on. Correct me if I'm wrong but that problem is upstream of the l-jet right? And from what resources I've seen, that's likely a harness short or ignition switch - is that a reasonable deduction? You guys tell me, hehe, that's why I'm here.
The AFC relay and ignition switch may be ruled out at this point if you're sure that you observed 12V at W2, W3, and W5 of the CE panel.
You say you had very low voltage at W4, but 12V at pin 29 of the L-jet connector. This doesn't make sense as pin 29 is downstream of W4 and terminal 87 of relay XVI. W2 is one bank of injectors and W3 is the other. You said you had 12V for both injector banks at plug W, yet no voltage at the injectors.
No sense in trying another brain until you follow the WSM troubleshoot guide for AFC cars first. Trying another L-jet ECU may be the next step though.
The AFC relay and ignition switch may be ruled out at this point if you're sure that you observed 12V at W2, W3, and W5 of the CE panel.
You say you had very low voltage at W4, but 12V at pin 29 of the L-jet connector. This doesn't make sense as pin 29 is downstream of W4 and terminal 87 of relay XVI. W2 is one bank of injectors and W3 is the other. You said you had 12V for both injector banks at plug W, yet no voltage at the injectors.
No sense in trying another brain until you follow the WSM troubleshoot guide for AFC cars first. Trying another L-jet ECU may be the next step though.
I have 12v at the injector, or atleast two of the ones i checked, measured on meter to ground. But when I plug a noid light into it and crank the engine, nothing happens on the light.
The car will start, run for a second or two then stall.
Brand spanking new. That's why I asked if ignition timing could bother a noid light.
how old is it ??? several years ago there was a batch made where they switched the connections tried to send the signal through the grounded sheath..sometimes new parts do not work
Here is the culprit. I'll need to order a new one, but once I wiggles it a little, more to love it out of way, a lot of the plastic insulation broke away. I pulled it out, cracked off the remaining insulation and reinserted it and crank and it ran!! Now because it hasn't ran in years, I'm nervous about letting it run to long.
Holy $@#!\*¥ I thought I would be chasing this problem for years.
06-11-2015, 09:28 PM
