awilli6

Good afternoon gang,

My 87 S4 w/ 130k on the clock just developed a huge leak on the compressor. The hoses aren't leaking. When I shut the car off, I can hear it coming from the front of the compressor right behind the clutch.

I have a replacement on order. Is there anything special I need to know about replacing it? Any threads with pics or very detailed? Once I get it in, I plan on taking it to a ship to have oil & freon added.

Ducman82

well its easier to add the oil to the compressor before you re mount it. but you have to take in to count that the rest of the system holds oil. i have a chart some where.......

replace the drier while you are at it.

joejoe

Are you changing to 134? As ducman suggests replace drier and if adventurous the expansion valve (s). If system has never been opened before then you should replace all 'O' rings in system. Sadly I will be doing same for one of my cars soon. Who is replacement from and what is cost (need to get ready for the shock)

awilli6

It's 134. I ordered it from Roger @ 928sRus. Price is $460 I think for re manufactured unit (like new). No core required. I'll have to order the drier also. If you any directions I'd appreciate it.

Bilal928S4

I think the new compressor already comes with oil in it, probably for the whole system. Check with Roger.

SeanR

It's not pre-oiled.

I usually add 3-5 oz if I'm changing the drier and hose seals.

awilli6

Do I need to order the hose seals or do they come with drier & compressor?

bureau13

The compressor I got from Roger was definitely pre-oiled. It even came with instructions telling you that it had the entire quantity of oil for the entire system, and how to determine how much to poor out and discard. That being said, it was set up for R12, so perhaps they don't put oil in it for the ones intended for 134, due to the possibility of it needing the ester oil (for a conversion) rather than PAG?

It's pretty easy to check...remove the shipping plates and turn it over (over a container). If it has oil, it will all come pouring out.

Ducman82

New hoses have the o-rings. You will need them for the drier. I just finished this exact job.

As Sean said add 3-5 oz oil if doing compressor and drier.
I would replace all the o rings and the expansion valve, it's cheap
Nothing like doing all that work for the new compressor pressures to kill an old o ring..... :-(

griffiths

If you had converted to R134a in the past you should use the same type oil,
if it was PAG continue with it, if it was Ester, continue with Ester, if its a first time conversion from R12 to R134a use Ester.

MFranke

You may want to keep the old compressor if there is nothing else wrong with it and replace the front shaft seal ring. You can get a rebuild kit for cheap and then you will have a spare compressor. I did this to mine for my 88 a couple years ago and it is still leak-free.

awilli6

The system was changed over by the PO's Indy shop. New compressor and drier in 2007. I would have thought it would have lasted longer. Do I need to specify to Roger that it's for 134?

bureau13

Yes, you should. Otherwise it will likely come filled with mineral oil, which you do not want in an R134a system.

SeanR

That's very odd that it would be filled already. Everyone I've picked up had a notice that the compressor was shipped with out oil.

bureau13

Hmmm...mine was factory reconditioned Denso, and the documentation provided discussed that it had been filled with enough oil for the whole system, along with how to determine how much if any should be drained.