Am I a Bad 928 Owner?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Am I a Bad 928 Owner?
I couldn't take it anymore. Being certain that I have adequate battery power to start the car seemed to be a crapshoot. The neighbourhood garage checked the charging system, I put in a new battery and turned to this forum for help with the real problem: a parasitic power drain.
Thanks to Allan and everyone, I was able to find the source of the problem--the interior (and door end) lights but I have, as yet, not found what I can say is my 'eureka moment' and fixed the problem for once and for all. Hence, this post.
Yesterday I installed a kill switch. Located where the fader button next to the e-brake lever can usually be found, I used a 4G silicon-like-rubber coated jumper cable after failing to find satisfactory battery lead cables anywhere. I removed the various coverings and carefully routed the wire in what I'd like to think is a nice, neat and invisible way. But my car isn't well, the way it's supposed to be.
I tell myself that maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow but, someday I'll find the exact source of that parasitic drain and fix it. Meanwhile, I like having the lights back on. Especially at night. I just hope that this ugly addition doesn't make me a bad owner in everyone's eyes.
Thanks to Allan and everyone, I was able to find the source of the problem--the interior (and door end) lights but I have, as yet, not found what I can say is my 'eureka moment' and fixed the problem for once and for all. Hence, this post.
Yesterday I installed a kill switch. Located where the fader button next to the e-brake lever can usually be found, I used a 4G silicon-like-rubber coated jumper cable after failing to find satisfactory battery lead cables anywhere. I removed the various coverings and carefully routed the wire in what I'd like to think is a nice, neat and invisible way. But my car isn't well, the way it's supposed to be.
I tell myself that maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow but, someday I'll find the exact source of that parasitic drain and fix it. Meanwhile, I like having the lights back on. Especially at night. I just hope that this ugly addition doesn't make me a bad owner in everyone's eyes.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thank you, all. I really love the car. Dead batteries are no fun and I tell myself that Rome wasn't built in a day. Perhaps this summer I'll sort it out properly. In the meantime, as a penance I'll wear a 16" phonie around my neck.
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#8
How long does it take for the battery to go dead...or low enough to not start the car?
Me, I'd check the alternator first by disconnecting it for the usual mount of time that it usually goes dead, if that doesn't do it...I'd check for a dome light or glove box light (like mentioned earlier) or rear hatch light being left on after everything is closed, if you find nothing with those suspects, then I'd make sure the electric antenna is retracking all the way, if it stays up even an inch or so...the antenna motor will continue to pull the antenna down until it comes to rest in its lowest position...even after the key is off. I might even disconnect the antenna motor just in case its contacts have gotten corroded and they are not cleanly breaking from there power source, even while in the rest/neutral position. Also, if you have an aftermarket radio...I'd eject it out of the center console and unplug it for a day or so and see what happens.
Those are what I would start with.
Brian.
Me, I'd check the alternator first by disconnecting it for the usual mount of time that it usually goes dead, if that doesn't do it...I'd check for a dome light or glove box light (like mentioned earlier) or rear hatch light being left on after everything is closed, if you find nothing with those suspects, then I'd make sure the electric antenna is retracking all the way, if it stays up even an inch or so...the antenna motor will continue to pull the antenna down until it comes to rest in its lowest position...even after the key is off. I might even disconnect the antenna motor just in case its contacts have gotten corroded and they are not cleanly breaking from there power source, even while in the rest/neutral position. Also, if you have an aftermarket radio...I'd eject it out of the center console and unplug it for a day or so and see what happens.
Those are what I would start with.
Brian.
#9
Rennlist Member
There are many threads here - search. It can be done, but many have just given in and bought a maintainer. If the batt cells aren't sealed, check the fluid twice a year and keep it plugged in. No worries.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Indeed. Allan helped narrow it down and pulling the fuse for the interior lights confirmed source of drain.
The alternator is new last year as is battery. Stored over the winter with tender. Appreciate the tip, however.
The alternator is new last year as is battery. Stored over the winter with tender. Appreciate the tip, however.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How long does it take for the battery to go dead...or low enough to not start the car?
Me, I'd check the alternator first by disconnecting it for the usual mount of time that it usually goes dead, if that doesn't do it...I'd check for a dome light or glove box light (like mentioned earlier) or rear hatch light being left on after everything is closed, if you find nothing with those suspects, then I'd make sure the electric antenna is retracking all the way, if it stays up even an inch or so...the antenna motor will continue to pull the antenna down until it comes to rest in its lowest position...even after the key is off. I might even disconnect the antenna motor just in case its contacts have gotten corroded and they are not cleanly breaking from there power source, even while in the rest/neutral position. Also, if you have an aftermarket radio...I'd eject it out of the center console and unplug it for a day or so and see what happens.
Those are what I would start with.
Brian.
Me, I'd check the alternator first by disconnecting it for the usual mount of time that it usually goes dead, if that doesn't do it...I'd check for a dome light or glove box light (like mentioned earlier) or rear hatch light being left on after everything is closed, if you find nothing with those suspects, then I'd make sure the electric antenna is retracking all the way, if it stays up even an inch or so...the antenna motor will continue to pull the antenna down until it comes to rest in its lowest position...even after the key is off. I might even disconnect the antenna motor just in case its contacts have gotten corroded and they are not cleanly breaking from there power source, even while in the rest/neutral position. Also, if you have an aftermarket radio...I'd eject it out of the center console and unplug it for a day or so and see what happens.
Those are what I would start with.
Brian.
With the multi-meter and pulling the fuses suggested in similar threads I was able to prove Allan correct. The radio is on the same circuit.
As for the battery. It's a few days in Spring, Summer and Fall conditions. Unless, of course, I leave the fuse for the interior lights out and then it's fine for, well, when ever.
#14
Rennlist Member
A common issue is the interior lights grounding out against the roof.
You may dislike this, but you should remove the headliner to see if the wires have melted. They have been known to before.
You should also switch to the VW lights as they are cheap, durable, and don't have any exposed metal contacts like the Porsche ones do. This swap could also fix your your parasitic drain.
You may dislike this, but you should remove the headliner to see if the wires have melted. They have been known to before.
You should also switch to the VW lights as they are cheap, durable, and don't have any exposed metal contacts like the Porsche ones do. This swap could also fix your your parasitic drain.
#15
Brian.